RX7Kid

Here is my new tach i put in my car it revs the highest i could find other then a street bike tach... And no that is not my shift point ..

RX7Kid

Nobody

bcty

is that another copy and paste job.... looks like it... dont post anything anymore till u got some real pics!!

riffraff

those are nice tacs.. just expensive as hell

NZConvertible

What was wrong with the stock tach?

riffraff

not increadably accurate.. low red line..

Project DereK

Damn no ones got anything nice to say! I hate it when people think they can just talk crap about one elses car like nothing. I think the tach is bad ***! Hey RX7Kid, good job installing! If u ever have any questions on installing stuff in a 2nd gen email me. At least im here to HELP people.

NZConvertible

This is a forum for people to express their opinions. You can't expect everyone to agree with you all the time. In my opinion, an aftermarket tach on an FC is a waste of money. The stock one is bigger than most of the aftermarket ones, it is accurate enough and it's free. No one's going to try to steal it either. If you need a higher redline, get a shift light. But that's just my opinion...

Project DereK

No need to be rude about other peoples car either.

scathcart

What is your problem? You try to come off sounding all high and mighty, and yet you are bashing everyone around you.
Who was rude about his car? No one bashed it.
"Need some real advice...""I'm here to HELP people" sure sounds like you consider your opinion to be rated higher than those of others.
I have posted more helpful posts than you have, and everyone here will agree, so keep comments like that to yourself, please.

I agree with the kit. Choice of mounting is not where I would have put it, but limited choices on the RX-7 for mounting is a problem. Looks like a good install overall, and a NICE ******* GUAGE.
I do not see any need to upgrade from the stock one, but if you've got the money, it looks sweet as hell, and you get a shift light and peak hold and great looks to boot.

If you need any advice, feel free to continue posting.

Sean Cathcart

Felix Wankel

With a P-port I'm sure he needs a higher RPM tach

Project DereK

lol this guy likes to fight with me in every thread... guy! give it a rest!

RX7Kid

Okay it is real, i mounted it there so i would not have a huge clock sitting out in th open soon i will put it in the stock location but intell then that is were it stays , the reason i bought an aftermarket tach is i just instlled a periphrial port motor which i shift at aroud 12000 RPM

RETed

Hmmm...-0.5% to +6.5% error isn't bad at 7,000RPM.&nbsp I don't think most aftermarket tachs can even BEAT that specs.&nbsp Why do you NEED a more accurate tach for?

Straight out of the 1988 Mazda service manual...tach spec at 7,000 RPM, deviation from 6,965RPM to 7,455RPM.

Low redline?&nbsp Do you still run a stock ECU?&nbsp I bet you still do...which means running a higher RPM tach is plain useless and a waste of money.



-Ted

NZConvertible

Aah, you probably should have mentioned that a bit earlier! In that case, nice tach, good choice. Installing it in the stock instrument cluster might be a major (it's probably too deep) but might be possible. Only one way to find out...
BTW, how does a 4 year old afford a PP?! (Check your profile!)

Felix Wankel

I've seen his pics and I see a big 2 bbl downdraft carb. I don't know why you would even attempt to run the stock ECU with a pport, seeing as how you have to make an intake manifold anyway...

E6KT2

I'm sure the pictures of my guage cluster are still floating around somewhere. Autometer 5" Tach & 5" Speedo in the cluster housing with two smaller guages.

dre_2ooo

So you're saying when I shift just before 8,000rpms I could be at 8520rpms!!!!

Is this dangerous!!??

RETed

I don't know why you people are shifting so high - the engine makes no power up there.



-Ted

dre_2ooo

yeah i know it makes max power at 7500rpm, but then the rpm's are just a little bit higher in the NEXT gear. But if i shift at max power (7500) then i could really be at 8000... HMMM... i think i'll just shift at 7000-7500 rpms from now on.

My Junx

The difference in each successive gear at the same speed is just a little under 2K RPM. The reason you shift beyond the max power point is to keep the engine in the juicy part of the power band. If you shift at the MPP your engine will then have to climb just about 2K RPM to be making that much power again. However if you shift Oh, say 1K above your max point, you will only have to climb another 1K to make max power again. And as long as you have a decient powerband you are making more power just a little beyond the peak than you are a little before the peak. SO the important figure is actually the area under the curve while you drive. Shifting a little higher will give you a little more area under there than shifting right at the peak. And your ET will be lower. (unless your power curve DROPS very quickly after the peak)

RETed

What you should be trying to do is hit the peak torque.&nbsp Peak torque is nowhere close to 7kRPM, so you're shifting ay too high.


-Ted

My Junx

Torque alone will not get you anywhere in a hurry. Power alone won't do it either. But you need a healthy mix of both to have perfect results. And results are usually expressed as times. If you shift at the torque peak you will be shifting much sooner and will therefore need to shift more times during the brief 1/4 mile drag. So, if you make a run shifting around the peak torque and then make another shifting around the peak power you will get better results on the "power" run, simply be virtue of having fewer shifts. Remember that you and SLOWING DOWN when you shift gears, thats why you want to do it as quickly as possible and as few times as possible.

dre_2ooo

Ok my car makes peak torque : 140 lb-ft @4000 RPM

So you're saying I should shift around 4000 RPMs?

Any racing experts out there know where's best to shift?

riffraff

on my streetport , when racing, i usualy shift around 7500-8000rpm..

if you shift at 4k, then what is the point of having any power, because you are barely (if that) reaching your power band. when racing, you want to keep in your power band as much as possible. that generally means shifting after your peak power, so that you end up starting the next gear in the meaty part of your power band ( as junx said)