hey guys just bought an '89 rx7 gtu with 117k for $1400, so far it runs pretty well and almost everything works. the driver side headlight goes down, but then jams trying to come back up, then gets stuck in that position until i pop the hood and manually lift it. anytime i start the car it takes a while to catch and start running, runs good though except sometimes it idles at about 700 rpm and sometimes about 1100, but there is an exaust leak so that might be the problem. the sunroof needs a little help to get it up, but then its fine. the wipers only work on the slow setting, they also spray fluid just fine. the high beam switch for the headlights works but wont keep the brights on unless i hold it back. the clock sometimes illuminates, sometimes doesnt. thats all i can think of for now, hope i dont find too much else wrong with it. but any advice for simple fix ... or not so simple fixes ... would be appreciated. also the apex seals i beleive are the originals, should i expect them to need to be replaced soon ? what signs should i look for with that, and can i do that myself ? well its nice to finally be able to use this screenname, been waiting for a long time to get an rx7! let me know what u guys think of this specific model and year and ill take any information i can get right now. thanks!

John

 

The FAQ has most of these questions covered. The wiper switch is common, needs to be rebuilt/replaced. The sunroof needs to be taken off and clean the tracks and such. The idle could also be the TPS needing adjustment, but I'd fix the exhaust leak first to see if that fixed it. The clock thing is grounding I believe, which these cars have some bugs with. Good luck with the car, have fun, and welcome!

 

Where did you find it? I've been looking for an N/A around that price... DAMN.

Oh well, at least I know the car went to another car guy, and not some dumbass.

 

i found the car in indiana, just south east of chicago. but i have another question, i drove the car tonight and put gas in .... without thinking i put 87 octane in since im used to putting that in .... can someone please tell me u NEED 91 octane in this car because once i put that in and drove down the road a bit to eat, i left to go home and the car wont run hardly at all, it wont idle, about a 3rd hp as before, i drove it home but hopefully all i need to do is drain the gas and put in 91 ??? any other ideas would help too, thanks.

john

 

Unless you're running forced induction, I don't believe you need higher octane fuel. 87 is ok. You might want to do a compression test on the engine.

 

have you searched for a blockage that would disrupt the light, these lights have to be byfar the strongest ive worked on, i even had a screwdriver accidentaly stuck in one nad after i pulled it out it still functioned properly

i doubt thats exhaust leaks, for one thing mine is leaking and my idle is fine, the other is, its supposed to idle at about 750, the 1100 is probably when its warming up becaause of the bac valve, and your trouble holding an idle is most likely becasue of vaccum leaks

broken riser on one side, as soon as the sunroof rises look at the rails, at the very back towards the hatch you should see this halfmoon piece conected to a little plastic brick with a spring conected to it, if its broke....thats why its not rising

i too have trouble with that....apparently affter some years a connection in one of the pins in the dummy light harness goes bad and needs to be resoddered, i forget which pin, but thats definatly the problem(its obviously the pin for the clock)

do a compression check on the engine, if it reads about 80 psi and up then your good, as for the changing them yourself ask yourself this......"have i ever taken appart an engine?"..then ask yourself this....... "how much do i really know about the inside of the rotary engine?" theres your answer, dont take this as being rude its just the truth........last thing you need is to take apart an engine then have a few thousand dollar mess on your hands with the possibility of no other car to drive


and finally, all but the turbo engines of our car can run 87 octane with no problem what so ever(mine does), if you are experiencing problems, again, check your compression.

 

in fact the NA's run better on lower octane fuel

as to the power loss it could be alot of things
vaccume leak, clogged cat, and a myriad of little things

is the car smoking at all? white or blue?
whens the last time the spark plugs and wires were changed
check the air filter, replaced fuel filter?

 

+1 what niburu said

 

Not mine.

 

it should unless your running some sort of fuel managment and remapped
or done some major mods

 

its not smoking at all, and i have no idea when the plugs, wires, fuel filter etc. were changed, i just got the car and i have a list of things to do which includes those, but ive never seen such a drastic power loss from any of those things, also the engine feels unbalanced as well as the aformentioned symptoms. however, this weekend i will do a compression check, fuel pressure check, change the plugs and wires and fuel filter and see how it is running after that. thanks for the input everyone, im pretty car savvy but its a pretty steep learning curve still for a rotary. one last thing, i fear i may yet have to get the apex seals replaced sometime within the next year. 117k miles on the originals, im pretty sure theyll need replacing somewhat soon. how much roughly would that cost to take to a shop, as opposed to pulling the engine and doing them myself? i may have more questions about that within the next few months. thanks again for the suggestions everyone, wish me luck!

John

 

http://www.rotorwiki.com, I have write-ups for the wiper thing, the clock thing, and some of the other stuff.. check the FC Maintenance area.

 

dude- I've got over 235K miles on my original build... 117K ain't nothin'
Most people with an 7 as a daily would start considering a rebuild at 160K ish.

and be sure you redline btw, cuz a redline a day keeps the carbon away...

 

I'm about to roll into the 200,000's on the stock motor. It overheated last week due to a e-fan relay problem so I don't know how long until damage symtoms show up but if you take care of the car it should see 200K+ miles.

 

well thats good i dont have to worry about replacing the seals for a while yet. but it still does not run right, i replaced the spark plugs and checked the spark on all 4 plugs with the same wires, great spark no problem there. the engine seems to be missing badly, like a normal engine with a dead cylinder, rocks like crazy on start up, and just doesnt want to run right. the only other thing it could be would be fuel right ??? thats all i can think of, if anyones seen this same problem please help !!! ive had the car 3 days its just not right to be so broken already! anyways where do i start ? injectors ? ecm ? relay ?? i was never good with tracking down electrical problems ... again please help, any advice is much appreciated, thanks.

John

 

one thing u need 2 look out for is your spark plug wires, ive seen rotary retarded people assume, mmmmmm this coilpack is in front therefore these 2 plugs in the front, and these 2 in back, o look it even says 1, and 2, how convenant. idiots.......

i had some one actually do this 2 my n/a motor, 2 make a long painful story short

it cooked the rear stat gear, cracked the gear in my #2 rotor, and gouged the #2 housing. i was infuriated, more so i dident notice as i was driving home. i will never drive this car drunk, let alone pop the hood around people unless im watching sober.

 

based on what your saying (the sudden loss of power) I suspect your fuel system; you sucked up some crud from the tank and possiblly clogged injectors, filter, the sock around the fuel pump is clogged (I used to have complete fuel cutoff on hard left turns till that cleared up - sucked when autocrossing..alot)
just double check all the simple stupid stuff
I really really really doubt it's your apex seals especially if your not blowing any smoke
As to the learning curve, it is no different than any other car of that era till you get into engine internals thats the big difference, all the Mazdas of that time period had many of the same parts.