JD1

I finally got an RX7 convertible after wanting one for 10 years. It's a 1990, non-turbo with 145K miles, new engine at 75K. I've had it a week, but now it won't start. Ran fine for 5 days, now it just whirrs when I try to start it. I replaced the battery yesterday, which it did need, but still just whirrs when trying to start. All the warning lights, radio, etc. are working. In reading up on RX7s, I read that RX7s easily flood... could that be the prob? I also put premium gas in... should I have used 87? I drove it on last Saturday, then spent Sunday detailing the interior, during which I turned the ignition to the ON position several times, but never actually cranked the car. I go out Monday morning and it won't start. Pardon the stupid question, but could I have flooded it without cranking it? The guy I bought it from had it serviced every 3000 miles and it was running great until a couple of days ago. I'm very excited about finally getting this car and trying to learn everything I can about it, but frankly a bit bummed that I cleaned the interior and somehow managed to kill the engine This green RX7 novice would really appreciate any help! THANKS!

JD

Samps

Have you tried to jump start the car? All of the "ON" position may have drained down the new battery.

RylAssassin

Hey, welcome to the forum. This place is going to be your mecca for as long as you own your 7, so have fun

Anyways, ya that sounds like its flooded. I went through that with my 7 a few months ago. It happens when you move the car short distances or have it on for a short time. Im not sure if putting the ignition in the on position has anything to do with it but im pretty sure it may be flooded.
Anyhow this is what you gotto do its really simple
1. Open hood look for your main fuse block (Drivers side near ignition coil) Pull off the cover and pull the fuse marked EGI fuse
2. start the car holding down the pedal and turning the ignition for 15 seconds AT SAME TIME.
3. Replace EGI fuse and attempt to start car like normal.
4. Repeat process as necessary if car does not start.

This is basic unflooding procedure, it can be found at many websights just as a helpfull hint my freind these websights are the best to find **** out in my opinion:
This websights search feature, Just type what you want to look for and itll find you plenty of info
www.fc3s.org lots of stuff there, most importanly the FSM for our cars you can download it there.
www.fc3s-pro.com lots of tech stuff in there also
And there are more but this covers the main ones in my opinion
Dude good luck and again welcome to our forum

vaughnc

if you don't hear the "catchug catchug catchug" when you crank the car, it's flooded and you'll need to put a bit of AFT into the spark plug holes to re-establish the oil seal to make compression.

Using the fuse trick above is the same as pushing the pedal to the floor in the 89+ cars. But if you aren't getting any compression you'll need to follow the ATF unflood procedure below.

I just went through that with my 89 vert. Go here:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ighlight=flood

In the future be sure to warm the car up fully EVERY time you crank it. Make sure it's ideling @ 750 rpms and the temperature guage reads fully warm.

BTW - the 1990 vert has slightly better gearing (aren't you lucky) and has rear subs, full range on the door, and no under dash speakers. (aren't you lucky).

hope this helps

JD1

THANKS A LOT GUYS!!! The EGI fuse procedure worked. I had to do it four times, but it finally cranked. Smoked like hell while it was cranking though and now it's idling real rough... at about 750 rpm. I drove it around the block a couple of times, and then left it running in the garage for about 20 minutes, but the idle never smoothed out. Is this normal after flooding? Will the idle return to normal in time or is there something I need to do to correct it?

Thanks too for the reference websites. I've definitely got a shitload of reading and learning to do, but hey, I finally got my RX7, so I'm a happy dude!

dr0x

Yep. Having it to the on position leaves the fuel pump on, which is feeding constant pressure to the fuel rail. Its probably flooded. Pull out the EGI fuse, hold the accel to the floor and crank for a while. Dont go past 10s at a time, it will create a lot of heat for the starter. Just do this for about 30-40s and put the fuse back in. It should start. Why do you people have such a hardon for ATF. Cutting fuel and cranking, or motor oil is much better.

vaughnc

He never identified if his motor was making compression or not, so that was the "if your really stuck" suggestion.

And to answer your question, fuel cut won't always work. I didn't in my case.

Onyxxx

JD,

Welcome to the forum. I just got my Vert this past summer. It does the EXACT same thing!! (it's Flooded) I used the info from this forum to install a Fuel Cut Off Switch, and now it starts BEAUTIFULLY. If you want the post on how to do it, let me know and I can link it to you. It is VERY easy and just about anyone can install one. One thing I noticed is no one tells you how to use it (I know I know , common sense). Once it is installed simply use the SWITCH to shut your car down, then turn the key off, it burns all of the excess fuel (no more flooding). It was 25 degrees this morning, and my car started FIRST CRANK (the first time this has happened since summer)

chatch

Yeah I flooded my car once and it ran like **** once it started. Take it out and open it up. That should make it better.

vaughnc

um, he' has a 1990 model. Fuel cut switch is built in. Just push the pedal to the floor during cranking

Rotary Racer

You can put any range gas in it but the car will not perform any better in the stock form it is now. Just save your wallet book and use 87 from now on.

Yes and no. Having the ignition on the "on" position primes the fuel pump and puts pressure in the line. A good set of injectors should be able to hold this pressure. The EGI un-flooding is a temporary fix. I would think you have one of a couple of problems. Your injectors could be bad and can not hold the fuel system hold pressure and leaking when there is presure in the line. Or your fuel system hold pressure is to high. If you pick up a repair manual it will tell you how to perform all the fuel tests you will ever need.

Welcome to the board