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Old 06-27-08, 12:47 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pr0x3n3ta
How many miles are on it... 60k? If so I'd say you got a pretty good deal if you don't mind fixing body damage
It has 29k on the rebuilt motor. I just replace the fuse for the headlights last night and this morning the battery was dead. I think something is not grounded and ran the battery down or something. I just got the door off and I am working on the panel. I change the Spark plugs and gave her an oil change she sounds a LOT better than the video now with the new plugs/oil filter/ and Oil in her. It sill has the old gas In the tank.I have to take out the old gas out and put some new gas in her. The body is the only thing that needs work so far. Until I find other motor problems that is :P
Old 06-28-08, 10:41 PM
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Pictures on the progress will be posted.
Old 09-26-08, 02:20 AM
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TX Ike Sucks!!!

I just got power back on today. pics are coming real soon.
Old 09-26-08, 02:41 AM
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Ike blows, my power was out for a week, but generators are sweet!!
Old 12-13-08, 01:37 PM
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TX Getting Fixed!!!

I sent my car to the body shop on Friday so in one to two weeks Eva will be as beautiful as ever.
Old 12-13-08, 02:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
So far this is what I have to do:
Clean the Injectors
Check all the grounds/clean them if dirty
Emissions Vacuum Piping Changed
Compression Test
New Oil
New Brake Fluid
New Transmission Fluid
New Radiator Fluid
New Power Steering
Replace the Spark plugs and wires
pull all light bulbs and grease them with dielectic grease all electrical connections

Is there any other Fluids that I need to replace that I didn't mention? Is there anything I need to do for a 60k tune up? I need to know I want to do all this at once and I want to make sure I don't miss anything. Thanks again guys.
20w-50 oil is pretty thick for winter and street use. Look at the mazda manual. It recommends 10w-30 or 10w-40. I've seen no evidence that mazda is wrong to suggest this or that there are any benefits to a thicker oil. All a thicker oil does is bump your pressure, but it DECREASES flow.

-Check/change your diff oil.

-Check condition of the fuel lines (and bump to the top of your list). If they are old/original and weathered you should replace them along with the fuel pulsation dampener. Do a search for (FPD+"banjo bolt") Common failure and cause of engine fires.

-Not too late to start pre-mixing. Mazda race cars have been doing it forever and many members including myself experience great benefits from it. Better compression and longer engine lifespan. Search for info on this too.

-Use only distilled water to dilute the coolant in the cooling system. You can get it at the grocery store. There is a drain plug on the radiator and on the driver side of the engine above the engine mount. Make sure you've got all the air out before driving the car again and keep an eye on the temp while burping the system.

-If you still have time, bleed the clutch.

As far as the injectors, vacuum lines, and grounds... if you're not having running problems I wouldn't mess with them. *As long as the lines aren't hard/cracked/brittle and you don't have any hesitation or running issues.

Last edited by alexdimen; 12-13-08 at 02:26 PM.
Old 12-19-08, 02:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
20w-50 oil is pretty thick for winter and street use. Look at the mazda manual. It recommends 10w-30 or 10w-40. I've seen no evidence that mazda is wrong to suggest this or that there are any benefits to a thicker oil. All a thicker oil does is bump your pressure, but it DECREASES flow.

-Check/change your diff oil.

-Check condition of the fuel lines (and bump to the top of your list). If they are old/original and weathered you should replace them along with the fuel pulsation dampener. Do a search for (FPD+"banjo bolt") Common failure and cause of engine fires.

-Not too late to start pre-mixing. Mazda race cars have been doing it forever and many members including myself experience great benefits from it. Better compression and longer engine lifespan. Search for info on this too.

-Use only distilled water to dilute the coolant in the cooling system. You can get it at the grocery store. There is a drain plug on the radiator and on the driver side of the engine above the engine mount. Make sure you've got all the air out before driving the car again and keep an eye on the temp while burping the system.

-If you still have time, bleed the clutch.

As far as the injectors, vacuum lines, and grounds... if you're not having running problems I wouldn't mess with them. *As long as the lines aren't hard/cracked/brittle and you don't have any hesitation or running issues.
I am doing an immediate Oil change a lot of people told me that I am using the wrong weight and that by doing that I am making the OMP work harder as well as other bad things. She is still at the body shop. As far as the fuel lines and such I will check into that. As far as I know everything is pretty stock. When I get the car back I will go threw all the major areas thoroughly. I think a lot of small problems emerge on these cause due to lack of attention to detail over a long span of time. Thanks for the advice. I just got the T2 diff and half shafts off my parts car. All I need now it a T2 engine, drive shaft, and Tranny, and accessories and I can begin my T2 conversion.
Old 12-19-08, 10:47 PM
  #33  
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congrats man
Old 12-20-08, 10:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by yellowfc3s
congrats man
I really wanted a T2 but Couldn't find one in my price range so I figured I can just make one with all the right parts
Old 01-17-09, 02:01 AM
  #35  
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TX Fixed!!!

I finally got the car back from the bodyshop and low and behold the damn thing is flooded. I told them so many times to just push the car and not to start it with out letting it warm up. Some people are to stupid for words. Anyways how do I unflood the car? She wouldn't even stay on for 3 secs unless my foot was on the gas.

Pics will be up shortly
Old 01-17-09, 02:14 AM
  #36  
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It's an S5 right? In an S5, you can just floor the throttle and crank to deflood it. If it is majorly flooded, you may have to pull the spark plugs and EGI fuse and crank it to blow all the excess fuel out of the plug holes.
Old 01-17-09, 08:40 PM
  #37  
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welcome! and she dosnt seem to bad. remember 2 check the frame if u havent yet. 800 and for like 30k mile on it. not bad imo. GL with the body work.
Old 01-20-09, 07:00 AM
  #38  
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TX Pics

Here is my myspace page with the pics I don't know how to get them on this site yet so just go to the link for now.


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2606452
Old 01-27-09, 12:30 PM
  #39  
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TX Almost legal!!!

I just got my registration and plates now I just have to get Her inspected and I am good to go.
Old 01-28-09, 08:17 AM
  #40  
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TX Pics!!!

Sorry it took so long for me to post them but here they are.


Driver Side


Passenger side and front bumper

Now I just have to sand her down and add a new color
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