New rebuild starts! Then Dies! Crap...
#1
New rebuild starts! Then Dies! Crap...
86 gxl automatic
I recently rebuilt the engine to replace coolant seals, just replaced all soft seals. The car will start and run with a little help from some 2 stroke in the plug holes. Anyway, it will run on it's own for a minute or so, then it will just shut off abruptly if I'm not on the gas. Some other symptoms I'm experiencing are:
Warning light cluster / clock do not turn on at all.
The warning buzzer starts going off approx 15 seconds after the key is turned to the "ON" position.
What I've checked:
Coolant levels fine, Coolant level sensor, coolant thermosensor, and that little sensor on top of the water pump are all plugged in.
Oil level fine, Unsure of oil pressure, guage reads 0 though, can't figure out why.
OMP deleted, so running premix, approx 4oz in a 1/4 tank of high quality 2-stoke.
I have checked for vacuum leaks a little bit, but it's hard with only 60 seconds of running time.
Any ideas what would be doing this?
I recently rebuilt the engine to replace coolant seals, just replaced all soft seals. The car will start and run with a little help from some 2 stroke in the plug holes. Anyway, it will run on it's own for a minute or so, then it will just shut off abruptly if I'm not on the gas. Some other symptoms I'm experiencing are:
Warning light cluster / clock do not turn on at all.
The warning buzzer starts going off approx 15 seconds after the key is turned to the "ON" position.
What I've checked:
Coolant levels fine, Coolant level sensor, coolant thermosensor, and that little sensor on top of the water pump are all plugged in.
Oil level fine, Unsure of oil pressure, guage reads 0 though, can't figure out why.
OMP deleted, so running premix, approx 4oz in a 1/4 tank of high quality 2-stoke.
I have checked for vacuum leaks a little bit, but it's hard with only 60 seconds of running time.
Any ideas what would be doing this?
#4
Well, not sure about keeping it running, but the warning lights/clock could be a fuse and/or the "CPU". You can find the CPU on drivers side next to the pedals (on the outer wall). I know mine was shot and none of the idiot lights worked, nor did my horn.
#5
you can pressure test the intake for vacuum leaks since the car doesn't run well enough to use carb cleaner etc effectively. This is something you would normally do on a turbo car, but I've pressure tested n/a vehicles before, I just keep the pressure regulator on the air compressor pretty low. If there are any vacuum leaks you will hear and feel air hissing out--spraying soapy water while you test also helps because you can see where it bubbles.
you can fabricate a tester out of home depot parts, or www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html sells them (universal tester model) . I'm not sure if it will fit in the n/a intake pipe, but if it doesn't you can just buy a coupler or something else to make it work.
you can fabricate a tester out of home depot parts, or www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html sells them (universal tester model) . I'm not sure if it will fit in the n/a intake pipe, but if it doesn't you can just buy a coupler or something else to make it work.
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