Sean.

Okay, i KNOW there was JUST a thread on this but it quickly went to **** after i read it trying to find my answer... SO i made a new one!

My situation is a little bit different.. Okay this problem was going on right when we purchased the car, the pedal is VERY weak goes down, comes about half way back up, most of the time only with the aid of your foot helping it up... anyways this problem caused to first clutch to burn out its lifes remainder rather quickly.. We pulled the tranny, put in a brand new SPEC stage 2 clutch, brand new Racing beat master and slave cylinder. (NOTE: We kept the OEM Rubber clutch line) And put it all back together.

Clutch pedal is doing the EXACT same thing it was doing before. everything else is functional though because if i help the clutch pedal to where it needs to be the clutch engages and disengages perfectly. just the pedal is extremely weak. i have bled the clutch MULTIPLE times.. kicked the **** out of the clutch in order to push all the air through, etc.

I Just ordered a stainless clutch line from Racing Beat this morning, I've been under the dash trying to adjust the pedal and the master cylinder but i dont think im having much luck.

if you want, i can take a video of how the car is acting an stuff for you guys.

TL;DR Clutch pedal is sticking to the floor, new master, new slave, new clutch, bled several times, tried adjusting pedal, etc no avail.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Did you grease up the input shaft when you installed the new throwout bearing?

Sean.

yes sir. When you press and depress the clutch pedal you can look and see the slave is moving the clutch fork perfectly but the pedal is super weak and wont return

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Does it seem related to the clutch, or hydraulics? And did you try reverse bleeding it?

Sean.

hmmm not too sure what reverse bleeding is (sorry lol dont flame me) it seems related to the pedal to be quite honest lol like i said if i doctor the pedal up and down the fork moves as it should i can even drive the car if i take my shoe off to hook my toes over the top of the pedal an move it up and down. there is just like NO spring in it at all. ive tried adjusting it several times also...

Tanj!

iTrader: (5)

Did you bench prime the master? Or prime the master once installed on the car?

Sean.

yessir

Sean.

i got a video uploading right now for you guys

Sean.

Here is your video! this is an actually very entertaining video haha

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Well, if the one thing you didn't change was the rubber clutch hose and when you re-bleed the clutch there is air in there every time then I would reason that your culprit has made itself known. It's a closed system with three components. Unless you got a lemon master or slave than your hose should be the problem.

Sean.

yea i understand that which is why i ordered the stainless line today. hopefully this problem straightens itself out after i install that line and rebleed the system... there is no fluid leaking and no cracks in that line so idk.. the car only has 64k miles on it

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Try this:
Take the slave off the trans...attached to the Hydraulic system though.
Tap the master with a Hammer,I mean just tap.NOT WHACK.(that may dislodge any air)
put the slave UP as far as the hose will let it.
Set it say,above the Height of the Rubber hood seal.That way any air can make it's way UP.
(I can see that the hose is Bent,so it can hold air there)
Crack the Bleeder and gently pump.VERY SLOWLY.(watch that the rod does not push it's way out,so just put a little manual "back pressure" on that.)Close bleeder.
In order to get any pressure build up on it you will have to set it back IN the fork,and mount it.
So if you mount it PUMP<PUMP>PUMP.crack bleeder..
Try that a couple times.
I had a BITCH of a System,I got the clutch working,went for a Ride and POOF..to the Floor it went.
It was Air..I re-..bled the **** out of it and it was Perfect after that.So that tells you that it can hold air Even though you think that you got it all out!

Sean.

thanks for your insight, man. once this new stainless line gets here ill try that out! I am beginning to think it is a worn out spring in the pedal assembly though, seeing as how the car was an automatic > 5 speed conversion the spring seems messed up when you look at it and press the clutch pedal in/out. any insight on that?

FlyinFalco

My 88 tII was doing the same thing, I had a tiny leak at the hydro cable going into the slave on the tranny. From the looks of your video there is built up around the slave compared to the rest of t the tranny housing. I would take of PDF the hydro line and double check the pressure washers make sure they aren't cracked and if anything put a little thread lock tape in the hydro line to be sure. I won't hurt it I put it on mine, rebled it and the clutch had resistance and came back up like it should.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys, didn't read everything, but is the return spring on the pedal ok?

Sean.

To be completely honest with you, it doesnt seem okay and this MAY be the problem. i am ordering another spring from a member here on the forum hopefully that fixes the problem but i am also going to try these other solutions too. this damn clutch pedal is the ONLY thing holding this car back from being driveable and the build is complete as far as mechanics go. paint shop is next.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

trying a re-bleed costs nothing..lol.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I've seen where some people have had issues with their parts store clutch hydraulics. It's something about how the bleeder screw doesn't seal quite right sometimes. And I don't think that thread tape or sealant on the threads fixed it, I believe the issue was the seat inside the slave cylinder that wouldn't allow the bleeder to seal against it. You could try putting the gronk on the bleeder, but that would probably end up snapping it...