FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I just got an FC and it has a couple mods on it so I want to tune to boost and make the afr stable.

I'm looking for light modding, ability to control boost, air, fuel, etc.

Should I go full standalone or piggyback? If so which piggyback would you guys recommend? All I see is Standalones listed on the site...

I plan on eventually making the FC run 13s - 12s street legal.

It has Greddy FMIC, an intake of some sort, apexi n1 cat backs, koyo radiator and thats all I've seen so far. Can anybody tell me what my estimated boost would be after those assuming the turbo is boosting good? Do I need a FCD anytime soon? Thanks for all your help guys!!!

Does size of the FMIC matter really? once you go FMIC it should be able to handle what a FC can put out regardless of the intercoolers size, right?
I wonder why the previous owner did a radiator, are T2s prone to overheat?
The apexi is lame, I cant wait for RB.

Please relocate this if I did it in the wrong section.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

I'd rather have the apexi myself.

On a stock turbo you should see about 10psi max and you will need a FCD.

Piggybacks suck so most people use haltec. e6k/x mostly.

BNR is a good supplier of upgraded turbos for a stock manifold, check them out.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I can't stand single out or giant tips. I like small dual exhaust.

Ouch, I wonder if the car already has an FCD than. If not, where is a good place to get it? I saw one on mazdatrix, are they the only ones who carry?

I'm a newb at tuning, previously a muscle car guy, so I kinda wanted something I could learn myself without going insane. What standalone would everybody recommended? Haltech seems to get a lot of support on here.

Thanks for the heads up to BNR Supercars, I've seen cool stuff there and will most likely upgrade my turbo eventually.

MidnightOwl

Racing Beat has a FCD, and I think Corksport sells one as well. A lot of people who run aftermarket exhausts get one. It's not the safest thing on the planet, because it causes a leaner condition in higher boost by fooling the ECU to think you are boosting less than you really are. Going standalone seems to be a solid direction for getting the most out of the motor. You'd have the ability to tune every little thing to your own specifications to get the most out of your engine. Then you could get rid of the fuel cut AND not blow up your motor!

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

So can I not run my car until I get an FCD or standalone?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Start with a standalone. Haltech or Microtech is what I would recommend.

Sounds like you are already in the danger zone. I'd keep out of boost until you can find out if the car has enough fuel.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

So I'm thinking of getting a plug and play unit instead of a widely recognized Haltech. I'm still leaning to Standalone > Piggybacks though, which is good.

The Power FC and the AEM EMS both come to mind. I believe the FC needs datalogging and the EMS needs boost control though.

If I used piggybacks I'd still be on the stock ECU, so the fuel cut would still be in effect, right? The FCD is a way to get around that but fools the computer. Even if it fools the computer can you still tune the car to a safe level?

Also, aftermarket ECUs don't control emmissions right? So what does everybody do to get a sticker? Stick the stock one back on? Wouldn't fuel cut be back in effect than when they run it on the dyno to check the emmissions?

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

Wolf3D EMS FTW!

Why would you need to plug the stock ECU back in to pass emissions? There aren't really any ECU controlled emissions equipment on the FC. Most of it is vacuum controlled and old school. So as long as you tune it to pass emissions they wouldn't ever even need to see you have an aftermarket ECU.


And yes, the FCD will lie to the computer. You are much better off getting a standalone.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Personally I don't recommend the Wolf. It won't run the stock coils, seems very prone to trigger issues, and there are some inaccuracies in the manuals. Also the software sucks... The Haltech has the most support of them all and loads of base maps available, while the Microtech is the simplest.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

if you dont have much experience with a rotary, I'd say restore stock boost levels until you get a handle on what your doing. An FCD seems to be the fastest way to a blown motor. Some guys are using them and tuning succesfully, but they seem to have a better understanding for exactly how it effects fuel and boost.

I'd start off stock, then move on to standalone. From what I;ve seen, piggy backs have their own set of issues. A friend is running SAFC and has a few dead spots where the fuel either cuts out or floods the chamber.

Like Aaron said, Haltech has tons of maps floating around. You will have the most support using haltech.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

That's exactly what I'm trying to do! I'm so glad it sounds like a good idea to somebody else. Getting the boost to go down is the problem that I'm trying to address and how to go about doing it.

The Haltech has the most support and the Microtech is the easiest to learn? Interesting...

Still, any opinions on the plug and plays?

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

you arent really gonna find much "plug and play" for the T2. try digital tuning inc for a flashed ECU. You can running an upgraded fuel pump and 720 secondaries.