New Motor Install Running Rough? Would bad ECU cause that?
#1
I just put in a brand new rx7world stage 2 street ported motor. I recently finished the install and the motor runs great except that the car will idle a little rough and i am getting to much fuel. the car will start sometimes and other times you need to pinch the fuel line to get it to start. I tested my ecu and all of the connectors check out except the big connector. I am getting voltage where i am not supposed to do you possibly think it is the ecu or maybe the fuel pressure regulator? please help want ot drive my rx7 thanks.
Just installed new rebuilt motor and it is idling rough but i also checked my ecu and the 2 connectors checked out and the one big connector which has the check connector,a/c control unit, neutral switch, 5th switch, initial set switch, coil and ignitior, crank angle sensor, and the p/s switch those connectors are all sending the wrong readings would that make the car run rough thanks
Just installed new rebuilt motor and it is idling rough but i also checked my ecu and the 2 connectors checked out and the one big connector which has the check connector,a/c control unit, neutral switch, 5th switch, initial set switch, coil and ignitior, crank angle sensor, and the p/s switch those connectors are all sending the wrong readings would that make the car run rough thanks
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 09-17-07 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Merge two threads
#2
Initial start ups on rebuild are always rough. Set the idle high. Around 1500 or so, which is something you should have done before you started that car first time around. I know that sounds high, but the compression changes constantly until the new seals seat themselves so idle will continually change.
#3
Start the car, raise/adjust idle to 1000 rpm. Do about 200miles and drop it to 750-800. It should idle fine after that.
#5
Which pins are you getting wrong readings on?
And...during START, the ECU uses the start signal from the ignition key (pin 3B)........the signal from the water thermo sensor....and seeing a rpm less than 500. IF it sees those signals it will use a *start map* internal to the ECU for starting. After 500 rpms has been reached it then uses the afm for fuel delivery.
Download the Training Manual from the FAQ thread and read the Fuel and Emissions section for what I just wrote above.
One thing that might help is if you made a fuel cut switch OR it has been found that if you disconnect pin 3B during strarting, the afm will be used for fuel amount and that amount WILL be much less than if the *map in the ECU* is used. Makes for better starting if indeed you are flooding trying to start with the present method your using.
The downside to disconnecting pin 3B is that cold engine starts will be more difficult, BUT once the engine warms up they will be normal or better than if 3B is left connected.
And...during START, the ECU uses the start signal from the ignition key (pin 3B)........the signal from the water thermo sensor....and seeing a rpm less than 500. IF it sees those signals it will use a *start map* internal to the ECU for starting. After 500 rpms has been reached it then uses the afm for fuel delivery.
Download the Training Manual from the FAQ thread and read the Fuel and Emissions section for what I just wrote above.
One thing that might help is if you made a fuel cut switch OR it has been found that if you disconnect pin 3B during strarting, the afm will be used for fuel amount and that amount WILL be much less than if the *map in the ECU* is used. Makes for better starting if indeed you are flooding trying to start with the present method your using.
The downside to disconnecting pin 3B is that cold engine starts will be more difficult, BUT once the engine warms up they will be normal or better than if 3B is left connected.
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