your car seems like a S5 coupe. The cloth seats and door panels are a give-away along with the volt gauge instead of boost. Could've all been swapped, but seems unlikely.

The motor seems like a S5 13BT. It has the plastic radiator neck, and S5 BAC valve. Again, the front cover could've been swapped over, but unlikely.

The 7th pic down might be a manual boost controller...?

I'd take the advice here and pull the motor, read the threads here on turbo swaps and start over.

 

My thoughts-

1- You overpaid for the car. $3300 for a base model rx-7 swapped to a JDM motor (that appears to have been a crappy job, they didn't even clean it up before installing...) I would start over with that car, pull the motor, rebuild it, re-do the wiring, clean everything, find a N370 ecu, and then work things out.

Overall the car is a GREAT starting point. Light, solid roof, manual windows.... But the engine itself looks Ghetto/Redneck rigged and needs to be gone through.

OR

You can start with the basics and just work your way from there. Pull it down to the block, put all new gaskets, double check the work that was done using the forum here as a reference..

 

Assuming it wasn't all swapped in, that upholstery pattern plus the separate headrests on the seats means that car had Option Package A, the 1991 equivalent to the '89-90 GXL. You can see the power window switches in the doors. Package A cars had the sunroof as well rather than the solid roof. The good news is that means it should also have the 4-piston brakes.

Agreed that seems like a lot of money for a non-running NA-to-Turbo swap though.

 

maybe I'm missing it, but manual window? where?

 

theres no manual everything electric and yes big brakes,

i can pull the motor and no dieal will ideal for 5 second at 2k and then just die,

so yes im going to look throught all the sensors and vacuum lines,

i was asking if theres a picture of were the vacuum lines and or sensors are and go ?

thanks for help, and so jdm ecu is no problme s?

and is it a jdm motor ?

 

oh its a 1991 thats what titel states also theres a security button type plte by mirror switch ?

 

is it orange? its not a button. its just a light. you have to lock the doors and the hold the handle up while you close it to arm the alarm, if its still connected and works that is...

 

I think someone may have posted a link to this in your other thread, but you need to download the Factory Shop Manual (FSM). It will have some info on the sensors, vacuum lines, etc. Here's the link for the '89-91:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/

 

Or with both doors locked, close the hatch or close the hood. Basically, there are four sensors. Both doors, the hatch lock and the hood latch. All four must be locked to arm the system. It is correct that if the last thing you close/lock is one of the doors, you have to hold the handle up to arm the system; locking with the key doesn't do it. To disarm, turn the key in any of the three exterior locks; this applies if the alarm is triggered as well. Turning the key in the ignition will not disarm it. Again, assuming everything is connected and operational...

 

ok well i think if someone answers this in full it will help me alot:

what sensor and or vacuum line(S) make the cold start ideal process occur ?

like the 3k rpm then 2k then 700-1000 ?

as mine just goes to 2k and dies inless i guve it gas ?

and the idel is not jumpy , also when driving at low rpm it bogs and when let of gas it will dies at 2k or under ?

is there a low idel sensor ?
or what sensors occur with ideal and which vacuum lines ?
also were is the vacuum line that is for the boost gauge ? theres 2 lines by the ac firewall hookup u cna c on picture are hooked up 1 boost gauge and other to the bov.

 

Well It may be worth tuning up before assuming it was a bad build and striping it down.

My 88 TII did not work much better at all when i bought it and the porting would make it even more sensitive. But after doing 2 or 3 years of maintenance in the first month i owned it. it worked great. Get a factory service manual and check everything and do all the basic fixes people recommended. a bad tps or any other small thing can make a car run very badly.

and i wouldn't say you over payed. If it cam with a spare S5 NA motor you can sell that and in the end it will have been a good price. The rotors alone are worth good money to the right person. and the models without a sunroof are about 90 Lbs lighter in the roof. (I haven't weighed it that is just typical sunroof weight)

You should also read everything on every rx7 site before asking to many questions. People can be a bit short and or abrasive even when trying to be helpful to someone who has not done much reading.

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
http://www.teamfc3s.org/

Those 2 sites will have you reasonably competent. But seriously read all of it not just the parts that look like the exact cause of your problem you would be surprised what you will find.

 

so please name the sensors that asociate with idel and cold start ?

andhow do i know if tps is bad ?

 

dude, check the service manual. You are mechanic right? And you have a multi-meter?

cpt Mike, I don't think anyone is suggestion tearing the motor apart. What I am suggesting is taking the motor out of the car, addressing the wiring and ECU that way, then make sure all connectors are installed and connected properly. A compression test would be nice too. I feel like with all the questions ibuyusell101 has, it would be easier to start with a shell and a motor, then do the swap himself.

 

I never looked at the interior just the post that said it was a base model.. My mistake.

 

get a thermostat, get your gauges working of buy aftermarket. You do not want to over heat your motor or it will be toast. (rotarys + overheating = junk motor) And find a well known rotary shop and take your car to them.

 

does my motor have the emision system ? and ok tune up and thermostat i will do what other sensors please help,

i have been searching but same time not sure what to search for as i dont know what makes car go to 3k then 2k and then idel.

 

check the fsm and see if there are parts that are there. its kind of hard to tell. i see a charcoal canister? and something that goes to the air control valve but i cant see much more then that.

mazda oem thermostat. or nippon. there are threads that cover tps issues. the FSM (Factory Service Manual) can also tell you how to check it. download it and study the hell out of it.

its called accelerated warm up. when engine is cold it revs to 3k for roughly 10 seconds and then it stops that and when it warms up it goes to idle.

this thread is kind of funny. everyone tells you to search and try and figure it out but you dont. first time i read this i lol'd. so. we are all trying to be helpful but after a while it gets old.

good luck with tryin to figure this stuff out. wires like that everywhere would drive me nuts.

 

where in WI are you located? near the WI/IL border im guessing?

 

Make sure timing, TPS, and idle are all set properly. Also make sure you do a tune up, check all the oils, coolant, etc.

 

yes il/wi order,

and i searched but not sure what to search for sensor name wise

OK UPDATE !!!
i unplugged the air flow thing sensor with like 4 wires,

its the cone thing connected to filter /intake pipe to turbo and now car idel was steady and went 2k then 1k but engine was allready warm ??

will try tomarow morning when cold to c if it spikes to 3k, if so me unplugging that means that is broke ? also what to tell what ecu i have ?

and how to tel what engine i have >?

 

agaion its the sonsor that is connected to stock air box and intake piping, also what are some plugs i should un plug and start car to check ? i was pm to un plug the cat air tueb plug ?

 

Get a friend or something and get someone to start it up and keep it alive (not at 3,000RPM, not good keeping it running that high cold) and poke your head under the hood and listen for vacuum leaks. Try the simple stuff first. We've all gona crazy trying to find a well-hidden problem when it's actually staring you right in the face.

 

This guy wasn't liking the responses he was getting in this thread, so he started another virtually identical one here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=852950

Moderators might want to merge them.

 

Regarding your question about what ECU you have, this was already answered for you yesterday:

We can't tell which ECU you have until you take a look at it and tell us what number is printed on it.

 

I will just say this again one last time then i am done.

Get a thermostat, get your gauges working of buy aftermarket. You do not want to over heat your motor or it will be toast. (rotarys + overheating = junk motor) And find a well known rotary shop and take your car to them.