well i didnt know u guys just ride on people ? im starting new thread to many replies of bull **** !

 

ok posted before thread with no pictures and got 10+replies of bs and smacking on me,

TRYING AGAIN:

i just bout this car for 3,300

came with truck load of extra parts from original motor like tranny,turbo , engine etc

he said jdm swap , also lsd tranny ?

car has lots of power spin in second gear when floored, has a jump idle he said it was ported ?

but problems as follow:

wont stay running, starts but have to give gas.

when driving its bogs when let of gas !

DOESNT SMOKE at all, but little oil in filter pipe.

no thermostat, oil pressure and temperature gauge don't work !
he said its jdm ecu that came with swap !

and there's barely any clutch

BUT MAIN PROBLEM is runs like crap doesn't ideal good and lots of misc and unplugged plugs,

if someone can answer all an help out 50$ paypal that second, im looking for help sorry for spelling im 48 years old and from Europe, yes i have worked on many cars and own shop but never rotaries !

thanks for help !

 

Get one ASAP. Mazda OEM only.

 

Frequently Answered Questions.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/

Throttle Body Modification thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+throttle+body

Another, useful link.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+throttle+body



my paypal account is marshessn@gmail.com

 

i never asked anything about throttel body mods i asked to fix my problems and possibole causes and how to check what should be olugged in and out .

 

If you search on here your questions have been answered. The people on the other thread you started were trying to help out, but with so little info it is hard. Post a VIN or something that would help with identifying the chassis. Pictures are a good thing. Also don't start multiple threads about the same thing as it will just annoy people and in turn you will get less help. Be patient and have some thick skin, search and you will be rewarded.

 

maybe you should understand that things i posted were relevant to what you need.
just like you said you dont wanna hear about TB mods?
well you have one, and the only way to know 100% would be to read up.

maybe if you took a chance to read those threads instead of making a stupid reply, you would know that when a TB mod is done,

"....wont stay running, starts but have to give gas.

when driving its bogs when let of gas ! ..."

happens.

 

ok, well tell me please what u c in pic tures ? whats model was it gxl ?

 

there are no pictures. use a different or better upload service, like the forums...

 

carfax your VIN #...

check for vacuum leaks, do a compression test...

if you dont have any clue about your car... then you are already in over your head with this.

 

Your pictures don't work. Upload them into your post.

 

look again and heres more sir:

 

Looks like you have an S5 base model. From the looks of things it had been sitting for a while and you need to do a full tune up and search on here for any questions you have. Sometimes you have to search for a long time, but the info is here.

 

idling like crap and having poopey driving could be related to the JDM ecu.
there's a reason why not a whole lot of people use them.

 

idling like crap and having poopey driving could be related to the JDM ecu.
there's a reason why not a whole lot of people use them.

 

well i think its the swap, so what should i look to c if swap id done correctly ? whats with the plugs and wires just laying un plugged ? normal or no ? and why doesnt temperature and oil preasure gauge work ?

 

Don't worry too much about the unused plugs. There are a **** ton of them in these cars. I doubt it has anything to do with why it's running poorly.

Open the passenger door. Take off that plastic running board that says mazda on it. Pull up the carpet under the passenger side dash. Take out those bolts/nuts holding the aluminum plate on. Take a peek at what the number on the ECU is. Then look around the engine bay to see if other things in there have that same number. You can probably find a different turbo ECU on here for a decent price. Or a local bone yard too.


I can't tell what model you have, but you do have an 98-91.


As far as I can tell, there's an ARC aftermarket top mount intercooler, a Tial blow off valve, + aftermarket cone filter. They also re-did the grounds to get rid of a common hesitation at 3500 rpm's.



Try just a basic tune up. Plugs, fluids etc.



As for the gauges, it might be the JDM ECU.

 

If it's a 91, and was originally an N/A then its just a coupe. In 91 the FC's only came in Coupe, Turbo, and Convertable. The issue with it bogging and idling bad sounds possibly like a Throttle Position Sensor issue to me. Does the idle jump at all when its at a stand still? Then it probably points to a TPS. Also check to make sure all your vacuum lines are on because it also could be the result of a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you thought about removing emissions on the engine to make things simpler? http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html read through that, if you feel like you can do this it would make the whole system simpler and making finding your issue easier, it all depends on if you think you're up for that now or not. And if most of the plugs that are unplugged are green those are test plugs and are not plugged in. As for the gauges it could be the ECU if it is a JDM ECU, or it could be the sensors are bad or are not plugged in correctly, if thats the case it should be an easy fix for you. The oil pressure sender looks like this http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Engine.htm the 5th item down on the list, and is located near the rear of the block, if there is not a plug slid onto the top ***, then that could be your issue with that. The 8th item on that page is your water temperature sender and I believe on S5s is still located on the water pump? I could be wrong but check there first to see if that item is plugged in as well. Now for the clutch issue does the clutch stick to the floor? Or does it just feel like its slipping? If the pedal sticks to the floor your culpret will either be the clutch master cylinder which is located on the right side of the wire wall, or the line that goes from the clutch master cylinder is input into the slave cylinder which is on your tranny. They will need to be rebuilt or replaced. If it's a slipping feel you're probably going to have to replace the clutch. Hopefully this helps you out.

 

Why another thread? You should have stuck with the initial thread. There's no reason to start multiple threads for the same thing. If the other one was getting rowdy, let a mod do their job. This thread should be closed/merged with the initial thread.

As for what it is. Who cares? Figure out what it is now and how the problems can be remedied.

Also, do what others tell you to do. Search. Although you might not wanna type leik dis n2 teh serch feel'd.

Good luck on your research

 

Oh another thing you'll definitely want to put a thermostat in because I noticed you said you didn't have one! If you remove the water filler neck the thermostat will go inbetween that and the water pump housing.

 

ok iw ill do that, why is my temp gauge at very top high point ? not working ? also oil preasure gauge,

I SEARCHED cant find a list of thing needed to be done to swap a jdm motor into non turbo 91 fc, also how do i tell which turbo/motor i have ?

also is the intercooler and bov any good ?

 

If you really want to know what model your car was originally, you should have at least read the advice we offered you in your other thread. Did you check the label in the driver's door jamb regarding the OEM tire sizes? If the car came from the factory with 16" tires, your chassis was originally a Turbo. If 15", it was a non-turbo. There was no GXL in 1991 so if it is a non-turbo, it is a "Coupe."

However as has been stated above, there have obviously been a lot of modifications done to your car since it was new, so what it was originally probably doesn't matter much.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html

This should be able to answer most of your questions I think. Are they pegged out to the top? Because that could mean that they're grounded out improperly. The motor is most likely an S5, you can read from the link I posted ways to be able to tell because there is a lot to swap the earlier series motor the later car.

And yes they're both an Improvement over stock, especially the ARC intercooler. Make sure there's a vacuum line to the BOV too just in case. You'll get there, hopefully that page will help you alot.

 

In English, tranny is short for transmission, which is sometimes called a gearbox in Europe. The transmission is located beneath the center of the car.
http://www.16paws.com/rx7/fd_t2_tranny_med.html

In English, LSD stands for Limited Slip Differential, which is located between the rear wheels. The LSD is supposed to have a yellow metal tag.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1118673

The car also has what looks like a very nice TiAl blowoff valve, ARC upgraded intercooler, boost gauge, and air/fuel ratio gauge.

http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm

That could be part of the problem. Buy a Nippon thermostat. Do not buy a Stant thermostat.

Is the clutch fluid level low like the brake fluid level?

Yes, it will run like crap and not idle good if a moron performed the engine swap and unplugged the plugs. You will need to take the car to a good mechanic to fix that mess.

 

Two comments ( of varying usefulness)...

First, none of your issues are really "rotary" related. Once you get beyond the keg itself, all the subsystems are fairly standard automotive stuff, so don't hobble yourself thinking it's all weird rotary voodoo.
If you think of this car just like a Honda or Nissan (or whatever brands you're familiar with) that some yahoo has been all over, it might make it easier to approach.

More pertinently...the ECU has nothing to do with either the water temp or oil pressure gauge. If they aren't working, the problem lies in the sending units or the wiring to the gauge cluster but leave the ECU out of the picture...for a change, this isn't it's fault.

You really need to approach this car as though it was still a NA and you're going to swap it yourself.
Clearly, whoever did the work did not have a grasp on all the details involved, so you're going to have to assume that he screwed up everything and start from scratch.

I've been working on a swap project with a friend (V-8 into a third gen) and am constantly amazed by the sheer stupidity of the original builder(s). Not only is there a lot wrong, but it was harder to do it incorrectly than it would have been to do it right.

Assume nothing is correct and start over.