ZombeGTA

I finally got the new engine in, cranked it over and Zip Nada no start. About 20 seconds or so after the key is on there is this loud buzzer noise from the dashboard behind the instrument cluster. the engine is making good compression (it's new) I labeled every wire I removed and reinstalled them in their original position.
I don't know what to do next?
Help!

TonyTurboII

Hm. Check and double check.

Anything could be wrong. Is it trying to start, or just spinning? Check the Crank angle sensor. I forgot to plug mine back in.

ZombeGTA

Sounds like just spinning, I checked all the connectors. When installed the Crank angle sensor I indexed it to the arrow, then aligned it to the mark on the pulley. But which color mark? theres yellow, red, green, and white ones do I go by the paint on the inside of the pulley, or the timing marks?
I also switched to Nology hot wires, but I checked the ohms and their grounded properly.
I'm going to try the timing light tomorrow to see if I'm off.

TonyTurboII

Man. I dont know jack about aligning the CAS. I dont think you can check the timing too well without the car running. I know I couldnt.

BoostedRotors

Are you sure its not something as simple as being flooded? I know when i went to fire mine up for the first time, it was already flooded. pulled the fuse and voila...what does it sound like when you turn it over?

blu_gxl

it sound's like your noligy wires do a search for them there was a post not to long ago about this chenge to ngk wires and it should start.

james

ZombeGTA

You think the wires are to blame? I hope not those wires cost a fortune! I think it's the timing, I hope it's the timing. Damn I

TonyTurboII

Try different wires. Ive heard the Nologys suck also.

ZombeGTA

Yup
<-------Dumb *** had oil in the combustion chambers from the rebuild!
Swapped the old ngk wires back in, and still no start.
While I'm admitting to being a dumb ***, I might have put the primary injectors in the secondary injectors place and vice versa. Would this cause it to not start?

HAILERS

About the injectors. They should be the same for the primary and the secondary....460's. The only problem would be if the new engine came with injectors and they happen to be high resistance verses low resistance injectors. Meaning if your car originaly had the low impedence injectors of approx 2ohms and then you put some injectors of high impedence in of approx 12ohms, that could be a potential problem. Or if the case was reversed on the injecotor values you could hav a problem. You seem to have an aftermarket front pulley so I can't say where the cas should be. Do you have 12v at one of the pins on each injector plug????? Do you have spark???? If no spark, do you have 12v on the black/yellow wire on the small white plug on the Lead coil assy???? If you have spark, can you smell fuel????? If you take the top sparkplugs out and spin the engine do you see a fuel Mist?????? No fuel mist, no fuel being injected. Theres been posts on this forum in the last year mentioning what the four colors on your front pulley mean. I'm not going to hunt it up though. You might make a seperate thread asking what they stand for. You'll get a response, I'm sure. That seems an important thing to establish, IF you have determined that the spark is there, the fuel is there. One other thing is that if you find that you have a fuel mist and spark, assume its flooded and disconnect your fuel pump plug, spin the engine with one plug out of each rotor housing, put the plugs back in and spray a little starter fluid in the intake snorkel. See if you get it to start for a moment. If it does then its a flood problem. I don't do paragraphs or edit. Just threw a lot of stuff up te side of the wall and maybe some will stick. Do make the post about the different colors on the intake pulley.

Oversteer

There should only be two marks on your front pulley..yellow and white (trailing and leading). For now, align the pin on the front cover with either one. Pull the CAS and make sure the indent lines up correctly. Your wires are not the problem.

Things to check:
1. Pull a plug to make sure your getting fuel, plug should smell like fuel.
2. Check to make sure your plug wires are on correctly

3. With a spare plug, connect up the wire and ground the plug on the engine. Have a friend crank the engine and make sure you are getting spark

If all of these look OK, then I have one bit of advice. I've installed many reman motors and they don't always start. The engines are full of assembly fluid. Sometimes your first set up plugs can get covered with this stuff and they just won't fire. Check the plugs, they should be clean, or have only fuel on them. I've also had good luck pop starting a new engine. A starter doesn't always get the motor turning fast enough to get it running. The last rebuilt I installed in a '91 Conv. took an hour or running at 2K before it would idle. The engine just needed to work itself in. Do not put Starting Fluid in the motor. Starting fluid and Apex seals do not play well together.

Hope this helps

jmseven

Did you prime the fuel? Make sure that you did not cross the input and output fuel lines.

In regards to Nology wire...they DO work. I was the very first person to use them on a T2.

RE Amemiya uses and sells the same type of ignition wires. People mock what they dont know.....

HAILERS

OVERSTEER........I can almost assure you that he has an aftermarket front pulley. I've seen reference to the four marks on this forum about those marks and there was a reply as to which is which. Starter fluid is a valuable tool in trouble shooting a car. I more or less respect what a number of people say about not using it. It will cause knock. If used judiciously it harms nadda. Constant spraying into the intake with the engine running ain't the way to use it. Only a half second spray into the intake snorkel will do the job. If that does not get a kick out of the engine, you've got problems other than fuel. I'll waste my life away during the F1 Monaco race, that will NOT be won by a red car, and search for the thread that tells what the four marks stand for. I'll also not argue starter fluid no matter what anyone says.

blu_gxl

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...t=nology+wires

READ THIS THREAD IF YOU THINK THOSE NOLLOGY WIRES ARE SO GREAT...sorry for th caps

Silkworm

Sorry folks, I think you guys are on a wild goose chase.

I don't think he reinstalled the CAS right. There's a dot on the gear, and a small flange , at the very bottom of the CAS. Line the dot up with the flange, and with the engine at leading TDC, install

Then look at fuel, are you getting fuel pressure? Don't forget to prime the fuel pump, a new engine is not going to have fuel in the lines, conversely, no fuel to the injectors. Since the ECU doesn't turn the FP on until the AFM reads air, you aren't going to get fuel without priming the system.

Finally, look at if the plugs are firing.

That's how I'd do it anyway.

PaulC

HAILERS

I found it! This thread by C. Ludwig https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26957 it would appear that you have a Racing Beat pulley with four marks. TA DA! So. Do you have spark? Fuel?

Snufelupogus

iTrader: (2)

Im havin the same problem pretty much.
Got my N/A engine rebuilt and I installed it and now it doesnt run.
The engine just spins and becomes flooded when I try and start it. There is a little bit of smoke (white) coming from the exhaust, kinda puffing like.
Its obviously getting fuel as the engine keeps flooding. Ive checked for spark and all plugs are sparking.
The coils are getting the right ohms.
The plugs are in the right spots.
The company that rebuilt my engine told me that the timing had been set, so dont mess with it.
Checked for vacuum leaks, cant find any.
Checked wires, all hooked up.
My exhaust is disconnected after the manifold cause I think the cat is clogged.
Battery is good, doesnt drop below 11.5 (maybe a lil low, but that shouldnt be the problem).
Starter is hooked up and getting power.

So basically, the engine is just spinning, with a lil smoke coming outa the exhaust manifold (cause its disconnected) and everything SEEMS to be working.
Everytime it floods, I unplug everything, crank it to get the gas out, burn the fuel off the plugs.

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong?!
Thanks guys!

HAILERS

Snufelupogus a newly rebuilt engine will have low compression until it runs for an hour or so, at least thats my personal experience. A low compression engine will flood in a heart beat. I finall learned how to overcome this by temporarily installing a switch to cut off the fuel pump. This can be done by jumpering a black/white wire on a relay under the dash or going to the fuel pump plug located under the rug on the rear side of the left rear strut tower. Just splice the switch b/t the solid blue wire on the plug and run the switch to the drivers hand. That way with the flooded engine you can switch the pump off, crank the car until it starts and at that very moment flip the pump sw to on. Or you can get the wife, girl friend etc to stand at the fuel plug and be prepared to reconnect the fuel pump switch just as the car starts. Your choice. But, it is not a uncommon thing for a new engine to have low compression until it runs for an hour or two. Floods at the sight of gas.

Snufelupogus

iTrader: (2)

Cool. So I should unflood the engine, disconnect for fuel pump, crank the engine and when it starts (assuming that it will start) plug the fuel pump back in? And then let it run for a long while, right?
I'll give that a try tomorrow. If that doesnt work... Im rippin my wiring harness apart to look for a brake in one of the wires, cause thats the only other thing I can think it might be
Anywhoo, thanks!

HAILERS

SNUFEL Yes/NO. The first part YES. The part about ripping the harness apart Nope. Before doing that, and if the car did not start with the pump disconnected, buy two new LEAD sparkplugs. Only the two LEAds. Forget about the trail plugs. Meaningless things those two for right now. With the new plugs try it. You said you have fuel and spark. Should work. Timing??? Possible. But on the whole new engines flood at the mention of gas. Good holiday. And the LEAD coil assy is the one up front near the battery and the wires go to the two bottom sparkplugs. Number one is the front and two the rear. But you knew that anyway. Always double check though.Don't tear the harness apart if you have fuel and spark. Only other thing would be the timing.

Snufelupogus

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man.
I have new spark plugs all around. Timing was supposededededed to have been done by the shop that did the rebuild.
Im gonna go have a go at it and see what happens.

ZombeGTA

I was just about to give up, when I thought I'd prime the fuel system fully this time. OK, So there's no pressure in the lines at all. I jumpered the yellow connector, turned on the key and the pump isn't pumping! I've been messing with this car since it had snow on it, and never thought the sputtering was the fuel pump dying. I thought the worn apex seals and bad compression was the problem, mabey I was wrong and it was the fuel pump the whole time.

Snufelupogus

iTrader: (2)

Well that could very well be the problem.
I found out what my problem was and it was kinda simular to yours. I had bought some cleaned injectors off someone on the board and they turned out to be high impedance injectors when I needed low impedance (or visa versa, cant remember) so the injectors went firing... I got them changed and the engine runs super now

ZombeGTA

Cool, I'm shopping around for the best (cheapest) fuel pump right now. I hope to have it running by this weekend!

kenrx7

all you have to do is pull start the car, when I replaced my moter in my rx7 it would not start whatever I do I tryed everything, then I called mazda and they tolled me to pull start it, and wham it worked