Well, after changing the plugs a few times since owning the car, I was starting to wonder how long the wires had been in there? I really had no idea. So Mazdatrix.com hooked me up w/some Magnecore 10mm wires, lets see how this ends up...


Oww, yuck. Some 7mm wires, I have no Idea what they are, and how long they have been in use. And they are hard. Like, they might snap if you bend them to far ...


No worries, to the rescue!!


Woah, these things are thick! And btw, new wires/silicon smells really funny, ewwww!


Better, now I don't have to worry about looking at them wrong, lol. They were a little longer, so I had to snake them around a little. Anyone know how else to better route them?

I just thought i would share, I know how much we all like pictures! Lol...later

 

What is the advantage of getting 10MM wire as opposed to the 8.5MM wire?
And are these $69 wires recommended over the $30 NGK wires for daily driving on a stock car?

 

The only advantage of the 10mm over the 8.5mm is potential spark current. And the advantage of these magnecore wires is that I won't have to replace them "as often" as the 30$ NGK's. The wires themselves are guarranteed for life. And I don't recomend this for a daily driven stock car (but that's just me), although this is what my car is.... I guess you could say that this just shows how good I am at wasting money on my baby, lol! But hey, they were only about 25$ or so more than the 8.5's, so what the heck? I was getting new ones anyways... But I am planning on getting a crane hi-6 cdi soon, so I thougt this might help...later

 

drooling over your wires. this makes sense to lower your impedense down for optimum spark, guaranteed.

 

Actually, the only difference between the Magnecor 8.5 and 10mm wires are the ammount of silicone around the conducter and the amount of money you spent on them

The only reason to buy the 10mm is because your wires are right over a heat source like headers or the turbo. And that is not the case in our cars. However, if your going for wow factor...I guess they do that to.

You really should read the Magnecore site...lots of great info on how wires work.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

James

 

I have those wires too and they work great . They are a good upgrade from stock wires and i noticed my engine ran smoother!

 

Wrong. As mentioned Magenecor make it quite clear on their website that the only difference is the thickness of the insulation and that 10mm wires are unnecessary on a street car, particularly the cold side of a rotary engine bay. You should've done a little more research, and saved yourself $15 and a bunch of install hassle (the 8.5's are hard enough to get into the clips).

 

I`ve got the same wires on my daily driver, a little more than the 8.5s but I wanted to get the best.
Lets not give the guy a hard time....after all its his money.
As far as the wow factor , they for sure do give us that.

 

2713...yep you are totally right...I have wasted more money on my car than I even want to think about...

I am sure they do look great in the engine bay

James

 

Opps, my bad. And as I already said, I was replacing them anyways, what's an extra 15$? And where is the install hassle? Hassle? These were no harder to install than stock wires, so I don't get the "hassle" part. Oh, and I had read practically everything on their site, after reading this: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/truth.htm

In the suspension and handling links no less. And both of those things lead me to want Magnecore wires. They aren't over 100$ like a lot I have seen. Particularly Racing Beat's. So your two negetives 15$ and a hassle? 15$, oh no, big deal. Hassle, what hassle? Just thought you guys/girls would like the pics. I know I always like seeing pics on here...later

 

Shoot, I've got them, but I got them used from Kevin when he wrecked his red FC.

 

I can garantee if you put those things on in place of your old stock wires youll notice a big difference in how smooth your engine will run. Yea they do cost more i got mine for about 68$ but you do get a nice very well constructed set of silicon wires! Maybe they are not designed for a street car but hey they work great on my car and i drive it 60+ miles a day. Personally with me i like to spoil my car with parts that perform exceptionally good even if it wasn't designed for a street car.
Hell a six puck isn't etheir but look how many guy's are doing it.

 

I have had a set of the 10mm wires on my car since ~93. I have had absolutely no problems with them and the car was driven daily until 98.

 

You do realise that the size of the wire only refers to the thickness of the insulation, right? The actual conductor inside will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they are generally only 1-2MM wide at the most.

 

The conductor is 2.5mm, and yes, I now know that it's just more insulation. But it's all good...later

 

my racing beat wires work beautifully

 

How were they for fitment anyways?

Ohh, and is there a difference between the black and gold colored crane hi-6 cdi's?

 

I like my Holley plug leads.......

 

Whats that brace on the engine? i havnt seen that before. How much did that cost and do you feel a difference in engine stability?

sorry to go offtopic

 

Engine Torque Dampener, honestly.......no noticable difference. It's my bling factor Won it at a drift event.

 

That's because you haven't properly supported and separated the wires like you're supposed to. I didn't look at the pics before so I didn't notice it. Cable-tying the wires together like you have is a not recommended as it can cause cross-firing, and they should be supported so that they don't rest against metal objects for similar reasons. If you use the stock wire supports to do a proper job, 10mm wires will be a PITA to fit because of the extra thickness. That's what I mean by extra hassle.

 

lol well i like the way it looks..its defanitly bling! anybody know where i could pick one of those up?

 

Hmm, I'll have to think of different routing then... But I have experienced nothing but a smoother running/reving ride as of yet. And how come the stock mounts Zip-tie the cables together if it's really a factor? Maybe it's not in a stock application, I don't know. But I'll have to see what I can do before I get the crane hi-6 on there. And btw, I did use the stock mounts to do a "proper" job, I just had to use new tape. All I added was some zipties...later

 

That's not uncommon when replacing old wires with high-quality new ones.

In an unmolested engine bay there are no zip-ties holding the leads, only proper clips.

I can't see any of the stock lead supports in the photo. The wires clip into them and are held apart from each other.

 

Bah, that's how it was when I got it, excluding the two zip ties I put on by the leading wires. Guess I'm going pic hunting then, I thought those were the stock mounts...later