Valkyrie

Ok, there's supposed to be an o-ring on the front stationary gear, right? Mine didn't seem to have one in the little groove around the base of the gear, and I don't know which o-ring in my gasket set (I also have the front and rear oil seals, plus the main oil seal) is supposed to go there.

I have one long, black o-ring in my set (I did order the front eccentric seal after all...), but it's *way* too long to go around the stationary gear... so what am I supposed to do?

Valkyrie

nevermind... I searched and found out you don't need one.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Not one on the front, since oil is on both sides anyway. Only one on the back, where oil must not seep out.

Valkyrie

Ok, now I have a different question...

When you assemble the front stationary gear, plus the needle bearing(s?) and the thrust plate, does the needle bearing have to be perfectly centered into the hole around the eccentric shaft? I figure the reason it's supposed to be bolted down to 15~ ft lbs is because it needs to be able to move around (yes, I used a torque wrench) inside there...but it didn't.

I had to loosen it up to get the shaft in there, and the needle bearing that I can see (I have two...am I supposed to have two?) still isn't alligned...

Seriously though, are there supposed to be two needle bearings? the manual only mentions "the" needle bearing, and mine had two in it...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Man, are you sure you should be doing this job?

Yes there are 2 needle bearings. Combined with the spacer and thrust plate, they control end play setting.

The bearing and spacer behind the thrust plate will slide around until the eshaft and spacer ring are installed. Then you install the 2nd bearing and the rest of the front cover stuff.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I reccomend the Atkins rebuild video, since it seems you aren't 100% sure how to do the rebuild.

Valkyrie

Hell no! But I'm gonna do it anyway


At the moment I also don't have the time to wait for a video to come in the mail...

(also, I didn't put the ring spacer thing in there yet so that may be the reason it's sliding around... sigh.)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

so you don't have time and are learning to do this rebuild? not a good combination.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

You will make the time if you have an assembly error and cause more damage and have to re-open the engine up again. Trust us. If this is your first rebuild, buy the video. It's cheap insurance.

Valkyrie

I've already found a few things I have to go back and check or redo anyway... so no worries.

Also, I noticed that my Haynes manual is a lot less vague when it comes to it's instructions.

SuperRotorMan

where do u order the video from?

Valkyrie

atkinsrotary.com

Ok... I put all the spacers, washers, and thrust plates together the only way that makes sense, based on what the Haynes manual says, and the plate that bolts to into the stationary gear is sticking out a bit, rather than being flush with the gear... I figure that isn't normal... so...

any ideas?

(for the record, I've got the first thrust plate on the bottom, around the shaft, then the needle bearing with the ring spacer inside of it, holding it in place, then the thrust plate, then the other needle bearing (the other thrust plate is still inside the balance weight).

(Or maybe it's just the shaft's play?)

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

www.atkinsrotary.com

it's all over their store

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

thrust bearing, spacer, needle bearing then place the stat gear cover, thrust bearing and thrust washer is in the front balancer. make sure the stat gear cover alignment hole aligns with the dowel pin.


you need the video if you can't get this right.

Valkyrie

Yeah, I got it on there correctly, I just had to move the shaft to get it flush.

I *finally* got the intermediate housing in there right! Man that thing is a bitch! Well, not so much the housing itself as it is the eccentric shaft that makes it so hard.

Hope I don't screw something else up and have to take it apart again..

come to think of it I didn't put use any sealant on that spot near the bottom again... oh well. I'm not taking that bitch off again... at least not all the way.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

First off, the thrust bearing that goes on the front has a bevel. Make sure the bevel faces towards the engine. This also goes for the gear that rotates the OMP rod and CAS. That gear also has a bevel that suppose to face the engine side.

Secondly, pull the intermediate housing back off if you didn't put any sealant on the legs, you will have some oil leakage if you don't. Did you use vaseline to hold the rotor seals? If your apex seals side pieces aren't glued together, the corner piece can and will fly out of it's place when trying to install the intermediate housing. Here's a tip, to make it easier to install the intermediate housing, rotate the e-shaft so the rear rotor e-shaft lob is facing the 2 o'clock position (towards one of the intake ports). Have a friend lift the e-shaft 1" as you position it in place.

Valkyrie

I had to go back and redo all of it again since I dropped a corner peice down the coolant passages while trying to put the rear rotor on... sigh.

So yes, I did put the sealant on there (...well, I tried at least)... I realized myself that the sealant is for stopping oil leaks a while ago since I remembered that the sump is peiced together from the housings.

Now I've got it back to where I was, and the rotor is now in place (I did have the housing on there but it didn't spin so I had to realign the rotor on the shaft), and now I'm ready to put the rear r-housing on... as long as that damn coolant seal stops popping out (it's hylomared!).

If I have to redo anything else I'm so gonna cry... well, if I would if I didn't have such issues about expressing my feelings

I did try glueing the apex seals together, but the springs kept knocking it off...and besides, isn't the side piece supposed to go in after the springs do?

Instead of putting the springs in after I put the housing on, I just use a rubber band, and tear (snap it) it off as soon as I've got the housing around the seals... works pretty well, IMO... so long as you don't forget to snap the band first (if you don't that means you get to fish it out...) (I put the side peices in after I've got the rotor housing on)

But you know, the more I screw up the better I seem to be getting at it

Valkyrie

Hurray... the shortblock is now all together! Just have to torque the tension rods, put on the flywheel, and the eccentric shaft pulleys...

...so... I don't have to worry about the seals and stuff flying apart inside the engine, right?

I'm pretty sure I put it all together right...

ps, anyone know the torque specs for the bolts on the rear stationary gear? I took them out, not realizing that you don't have to take it out...

I am terrified that my engine will go pop as soon as it fires up...but I do also have confidence in the job I've done.

PPS: I just test-spun it with the flywheel, and it spins correctly, and also makes the puffs of air (of course since the plugs are out, it doesn't compress much...), so I should be good to go, I hope.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Yes side piece goes last. This is why you use vaseline. You put the side piece in then you put some vaseline over it and the corner seal to keep it from popping out. It will stick out some but it won't pop all the way out and get lost. When you put the plates on, it forces the side piece in perfectly.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I usually put the plugs in and rotate it to built some compression. Then I grab my 2 1/8" flywheel nut and wrench and spin it fast so I can hear even exhaust pulses. If they all sound even, then you know you did good.