so i now have an 89 TII thats in need of a rebuild. im saving for it as we speak and i have this list of parts im thinking of using...


-RX8 Front stat. gear w/ multi-window bearing ($105.04)
mazdatrix 10-E0YC-N3H3

-RB Type II Rear Stat. gear w/ 3-Window Bearing ($185.00)
mazdatrix 10015

-Competition thrust bearings ($13.46)
mazdatrix 78-1840-0822

-Mazda (OEM) Apex Seals (6) ($67.47)
mazdatrix 11-C00C-N351

-Mazda (OEM) apex springs outer (6) ($6.02)
mazdatrix 11-C06C-N326

-Mazda (OEM) apex springs inner (6) ($5.60)
mazdatrix 11-C04A-N326

-Side seals (12) ($11.48)
mazdatrix 11-C110-N3Y1

-Side seal springs (12) ($1.57)
mazdatrix 11-C170-N326

-Solid corner seals (set) ($65.00)
atkinsrotary ARE2-11-321-S

-Corner seal FD springs (12) ($2.62)
mazdatrix 11-C240-NF01

-Mazda Factory Race Clearanced Rotor Bearings (2) ($95.85)
mazdatrix 11-1110-4801

-OEM Oil Rings (set) ($39.95)
atkinsrotary ARE15

-Competition Oil Control Ring Springs Front ($6.70)
mazdatrix 11-3530-4352

-Competition oil control Ring Springs Rear ($6.70)
mazdatrix 11-3630-4352

-Speed machine Thermal Bypass Pellet ($10.00)

-Racing beat oil pressure regulator 80psi ($90.00)

-Racing Beat Oil Pan Baffle ($51.50)


the car has 70,000 miles on it and im wondering if you can comment on my list. what am i missing? what should i change? what should i do away with? what should i add? any comments would help

 

no one likes it heh?

 

How come your rebuilding your motor with only 70k original miles???

 

and why do you need all that? stock an S4 is good for about 400RWHP without any upgrades needed unless you plan on redlining it often and for extended periods.

 

i bought the car with a blown motor. im trying to build a "reliable" (dare i even say it) motor that can be redlined often without worries.

 

First, that's looks like a complete list.
If you got the money, then go for it.

Second, it's not necessary to replace ALL those parts.

Third, stock parts will handle trips to redline - not a problem.
You don't need all that fancy crap, especially if you're not making 300+ hp?
No need to mess with the stat gears...
No need for those competition oil control ring springs...
No need for those expensive *** overpriced bearings...


-Ted

 

thanks im gonna take that into consideration...the less money i have to spend the better

 

eventually i will have 300+hp..i wanna be ready for when i do. first sttep is to rebuild and i can only afford doing this for now

 

i still see it fed to people that all of this stuff needs to be upgraded even when running 300+RWHP, which is not true.

 

Karack, what parts would you go with for a rebuild that will eventually yield 400hp..but not at first.

 

it's all about tuning not so much the engine itself.

if you find a matched pair of rotors and balance the assembly then even all stock internals should make for a fairly reliable 400RWHP engine, if you want a little more reliability as if it plans to be redlined often and for extended periods then i would upgrade the stat gears and bearings but even that isn't exactly necessary for a 400RWHP engine.

 

like the engine balancing service that racing beat offers?

 

i'm sure racing beat has the equipment to balance the rotating assembly.

 

so its not something any rotary mechanic can do?

 

not many are equipped to do it, it takes specialty machinery to do.