Need new springs.
#1
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Rotary Enthusiast
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From: Elkhorn, WI/ N.A.S. JAX
Need new springs.
I took my car to get a four wheel alignment i was told that the rear end was off by about 1 degree negative camber. and i don't have a camber adjuster on the car. the shop told me it was off do to the springs being old. I also know this because i replaced the rear shocks with OEM spec ones. SO.. my question which springs are the best to go with? I also plan on buying a camber adjuster as well.
#3
What purpose are the springs for?? Are you wanting aftermarket?? How low do you want to go? Different companies sell different height springs.
Your question was the same as walking in a wine store and asking what wine you should get. First thing the owner is gonna do is look at you with a mix of disapointment and pitty. Next thing he will ask you the same types of questions I just did. What purpose is the wine for. Is it with a meal? Maybe after meal? What type of food are you eating? What types of wines have you had that you liked?
You didn't get answers because you didn't ask the right questions.
Your question was the same as walking in a wine store and asking what wine you should get. First thing the owner is gonna do is look at you with a mix of disapointment and pitty. Next thing he will ask you the same types of questions I just did. What purpose is the wine for. Is it with a meal? Maybe after meal? What type of food are you eating? What types of wines have you had that you liked?
You didn't get answers because you didn't ask the right questions.
#4
well, if you want a sporty feeling but still want it to handle bumps like stock, progressive springs like eibach or Intrax are great, personally I would choose Eibach.
I dont know how much spring rate oem spec shocks can handle but if you want a higher spring rate in linear form, Tanabe GF210 are at 170lb/in front 140lb/in rear, many people here vouch for these springs. RS*R has their street spec springs at 200lbs/in front and 125lbs/in rear, their race specs are about 100lbs/in more
Or you can just get the stock springs....
http://mazdatrix.com/h4586-92.htm
if you are keeping the oem spec shocks, go for progressive springs. Tein Stech are said to be suited for oem shocks and will lower you car by 1inch
I dont know how much spring rate oem spec shocks can handle but if you want a higher spring rate in linear form, Tanabe GF210 are at 170lb/in front 140lb/in rear, many people here vouch for these springs. RS*R has their street spec springs at 200lbs/in front and 125lbs/in rear, their race specs are about 100lbs/in more
Or you can just get the stock springs....
http://mazdatrix.com/h4586-92.htm
if you are keeping the oem spec shocks, go for progressive springs. Tein Stech are said to be suited for oem shocks and will lower you car by 1inch
#6
Coilovers and stock springs are not compatible so just buy the stock like replacements like the ones on Mazdatrix. They are all compatible with the stock shocks you have too.
#7
Swift springs are great. You can custom order them to spec and they are linear as opposed to progressive. I prefer a linear spring no matter which brand you choose. I think most aftermarket springs are a tad to stiff for rough roads. I have 8k 6k spring rates and I sometimes hop around bumpy corners. Hopefully this will change as they break in. With swift springs you can choose custom spring rates and keep them on the softer side. You can also choose how far you want to drop your car, if you want to lower it at all. You can get the advantages of a linear spring without terrible ride quality. You just need to do some research and base your order on the specs of the stock springs. Also swift springs have a lifetime warranty.
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#8
My apologies for cracking on you a bit. Providing more information about your needs helps other to help you.
I have a vert with tokico blues and tein springs. They are progressive. I didn't get to drive on them much before my engine blew. Here are their stats (compliment of Google)
Ride Height:
Front: -0.98"
Rear: -0.98"
Spring Rate:
Front: 120 lbs/in
Rear: 130 lbs/in
1" might be too much for a vert though. I have 210 or 215 all around and the front tires were rubbing coming off curbs and turning at the same time. Another member had the same setup and wasn't rubbing....I guess I'll find out once the car is back on the road.
I have a vert with tokico blues and tein springs. They are progressive. I didn't get to drive on them much before my engine blew. Here are their stats (compliment of Google)
Ride Height:
Front: -0.98"
Rear: -0.98"
Spring Rate:
Front: 120 lbs/in
Rear: 130 lbs/in
1" might be too much for a vert though. I have 210 or 215 all around and the front tires were rubbing coming off curbs and turning at the same time. Another member had the same setup and wasn't rubbing....I guess I'll find out once the car is back on the road.
#9
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From: Elkhorn, WI/ N.A.S. JAX
normally i go over broad on info so i thought i would tone it back a bit. I just was looking for a low cost soultion that would replace all 4 springs. amazon has the tein s techs for $170. and i know lowering springs are not the same as coil overs. the springs are just going bad, really rusty
#11
becareful ordering on ebay. I know for a fact there was a counterfeit problem with Tein springs. I swapped emails with Tein's customer service to make sure the ones I was buying were legit.
If I had it to do over I'd go with RB. They have a long history of R&D with rotaries and for me specifically..they have vert specific springs.
If I had it to do over I'd go with RB. They have a long history of R&D with rotaries and for me specifically..they have vert specific springs.
#12
I looked for deals on a few other boards. Hondatech has a lot of vendor action and I ran across a sale awhile back. Since the springs are custom you can order through any distributer. I think swift might also sell directly through their site but that will probably cost more than finding a sale somewhere. When I was looking around it was about $400 a set on average. My brother got a set for around $300. Just make sure that the distributer is actually ordering per your specs from swift and doesn't have some pre ordered stuff laying around that they want to get rid of.
I put eibachs on my old rx7 and they wore out after 2 years of hard street driving. Swifts cost a little more, but if they ever droop, sag, or break the warranty is worth it. The fact that they warranty such a heavy wear item for life speaks for their quality.
I put eibachs on my old rx7 and they wore out after 2 years of hard street driving. Swifts cost a little more, but if they ever droop, sag, or break the warranty is worth it. The fact that they warranty such a heavy wear item for life speaks for their quality.
#13
Driving RX7's since 1979
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
I took my car to get a four wheel alignment i was told that the rear end was off by about 1 degree negative camber. and i don't have a camber adjuster on the car. the shop told me it was off do to the springs being old. I also know this because i replaced the rear shocks with OEM spec ones. SO.. my question which springs are the best to go with? I also plan on buying a camber adjuster as well.
As to spring choice, I'd vote Racing Beat springs all day long. They just do more R&D specific to RX7's where as the other spring providers are not near so RX7 focused.
#14
How old are your shocks? If they're 75k miles+ or you feel some bounce or etc. it'll be easier to do both springs and shocks at once and you can try any of the many setups mentioned here or elsewhere. Now is a good time to upgrade if you're ever going to.
I'm on Racing Beat + Tokico, little bit stiffer than stock and tight feel.
I'm on Racing Beat + Tokico, little bit stiffer than stock and tight feel.
#15
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From: Elkhorn, WI/ N.A.S. JAX
the rear shocks have less then 200 miles on them. idk about the fronts. i was going to get camber adjusters anyway. MMR has a set for 120 ish that will allow camber changes for both side independently.
#17
Sure why not. It worked for me. Though I got everything used (except shocks) from the forum classifieds to save money. Double check that the new sway bars don't rub the brake lines after you lower the car, especially in the rear. Ask me how I know.
See if you can find out how old the front shocks are and whether or not they need replacing. Or if the front end takes longer to stop a bounce than the back when you push on it.
See if you can find out how old the front shocks are and whether or not they need replacing. Or if the front end takes longer to stop a bounce than the back when you push on it.
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