2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Need helping tearing down engine

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Old 11-18-06 | 04:15 PM
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Need helping tearing down engine

I recently blew a coolant see in my S5 NA and have begun to tear it down for a rebuild. Im in the process of opening up the block but I cant get the the bolt that holds the pully and goes into the the e-shaft out. Its only supposed to be torqued down to 90 ft lbs but Ive put a lot more pressure on it then that and cant get it to break loose. Anyone have a suggestion? Get a big *** impact gun or something or...
Any help would be great thanks.
Old 11-18-06 | 05:29 PM
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impact gun works usually, or long breaker bar
Old 11-18-06 | 05:49 PM
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haha, I just dealt with this last night. If its in the car, use a torch to heat it up. I heated it for about 3 or 4 minutes and then it broke right loose in about 3 seconds with the 3/8ths impact gun. Otherwise I couldn't get it loose any other way. Tried breaker bar on the frame and poping the starter and that didn't do ****. You might be able to heat it and then use the breaker bar but, The trick is HEAT.

Chris
Old 11-19-06 | 12:01 AM
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a stronger impact gun need more FT LBS OF TORQUE!!! heating it up just weakens the bolts
Old 11-19-06 | 12:17 AM
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or a super long cheater bar.
Old 11-19-06 | 12:43 AM
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From: Japanabama
Impact gun over cheater bar in those sort of situations, IMO.

It comes with some pretty hellatious thread locker from the factory, IIRC, and you either need to put a torch to it to melt that stuff, or use an impact wrench.

A big cheater bar gives you a lot of torque but some times you might use too much. An impact wrench on the other hand jars the bolt lose by using a medium amount of torque a bajillion times. It's a bit safer that way...

Personally I didn't have any problems at all, just used a reasonably sized bar, but mine didn't have threadlocker.


Also, kungfuroy, that's the flywheel nut, not the e-shaft nut.

The flywheel nut is put on with like 400 ft lbs so you DO need a breaker bar that big...although with that much torque you'll end up snapping even a well-made wrench or breaker bar. Best to just take the engine to a tire shop and ask them to get the biggest impact wrench they have...
Old 11-19-06 | 01:33 AM
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the super long cheater bar is more for control so that you dont need to be bouncing up and down on a breaker bar that could suddenly snap and cause damage
Old 11-19-06 | 02:18 AM
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cheater bar>impact gun
Old 11-19-06 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rogrx7
cheater bar>impact gun
yeah right. a good impact will take any nut/bolt off in a couple seconds. why risk breaking something and possible hurting yourself for something simple?
Old 11-19-06 | 10:40 PM
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Well I have a Snap-on gun and I have took apart a decent amount of motors and the cheater bar always works. Starting out with an impact gun is nice to break up the rust and loctite.
Old 11-20-06 | 02:05 AM
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I have an impact that has effortlessly taken off 2 flywheel nuts, however couldn't get my pulley bolt off tonight, i'm going to be using a torch next chance i have free time.

Edited for nut/bolt mixup
Old 11-20-06 | 08:49 AM
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http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-22000

Get the flywheel breaker bar and the flywheel stopper from Mazdatrix. Only had to jump on it twice and the nut came right off. My motor was sitting on the ground so I had to have two friends of mine keep the motor from flipping on its side while I jumped on the breaker bar.

edit:

Then to break the flywheel loose from its taper press fit or whatever on the e-shaft, you can drape a rag or something over the flywheel and give it a good whack or two with the flat side of the breaker bar. Very easy process-- I would have just bought a 57mm socket but napa wanted to sell me one for $75.
Old 11-20-06 | 08:52 AM
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Impact gun = money. Cheater bar = basically free.
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