Fear,

Did you test the fuel pump like I said? I'tll confirm a few things at the same time (fuel pump circuit opening relay, main relay, etc.

Also, make sure you haven't unplugged the CAS while messsing about. Also, turn the engine over with a spark plug wire out of a spark plug and near a ground (let's way P/S bracket), and look for spark (do this in a safe way, but it should be dark enough so you can see the spark better.

If I've lost you, let me know and I'll clarify.

 

Well i'm going to test the fuel pump in a couple of hours ... and i have already tested the spark plug by taking out the plug but i still don't see or hear a spark... oh and about the CAS .. well i don't remember unplugging it but i'll double check ....

about the main relay ... since all the stuff inside the cabin is working wouldn't that mean that the main relay is still good ? cause as far as i know the main relay gives power to the fuse box inside the cabin next to the dead pedal .... doesn't ???

 

how did you test your plug? you can see the spark during the day by taking the spark plug out while its still attached to the wire and placing the metal part of a screw driver on it then place the other metal part of the screw driver close to a metal bolt on the car, you should see a pulsing arch between the bolt and screw driver, to check the coil packs disconnect the wire at the coil and lay the wire perpendicular on top of a coil entry point. You should see the same pulse while cranking the car, my car did it with the wire 3 inches away by mistake while i was unflooding my engine when i bought my car.

 

if you tested for spark correctly and you dont see anything then your car wont crank cause you have no spark. You can still do a toggle switch on your pump, and dont let anyone say "well what happens if you get in a wreck?" gasoline is designed to burn when sprayed in a mist and not be volatile when used in mass amounts. If you think i'm wrong you can

1. Look it up

2. explain to me why a flooded car doesn't start (hint to much gas doesn't burn even with spark and air)

3. let my friend scare the sh... out of you like he did me with a can of gas, a blow torch, and a spray bottle when he demonstrated the principal

 

If you believe that a puddle of gasoline near an open flame or spark is harmless (as you seem to indicate) they you may indeed be the ideal candidate for the next round of Darwin Awards.

 

well i have done this and i do hear the fuel pump pumping the fuel into the rails and going back to the tank ... so what next ???

 

Are you sure that you are getting no spark on the leading coils?

 

I was testing the coils to see if i would get a spark but still nothing ... there was a couple of second that i was getting a spark ... but a really small one and it looked weak .... but since there wasn't any fuel coming out of the injectors i wasn't able to start the car although i do hear the fuel going through the fuel rail .... after a couple of seconds it was back to the same .. no spark ....

 

strong possibility you've fried the ecu. sounds like your fuel pump works and at this point your doing nothing but flooding your motor. You need air spark and fuel to crank up a car and it sounds like your missing spark, your spark should be strong enough to be seen and make a clicking noise if you tested it the way i described. When you messed up the battery cables you more than likely fried the ecu, try to find one if possible from a friend to test it out or buy one straight out. If you have a 5 speed i know its one in my hometown junkyard thats good cause the car was in a major accident which lead to its new resting place

 

yup ... well the good thing is that i have bought one already and its on its way home lol hopefully by tuesday or weds i should get it

 

I'm not going to argue with you on this man's thread so just come up to g'boro and take option three or SHOW PROOF like i said before (last time i checked gasoline explosions happened in the movies, puddles on the ground lead to a little flame that can be put out, that's the point i was making) and yes a little puddle of gas is harmless.

they=then Mr Darwin Award Candidate

 

cool... run the same spark test to make sure, good luck with that and let us know how its going

Future reference Black with a Yellow stripe is commonly ground, That knowledge is the only reason i didn't fry my ecu

 

have you tried new spark plugs? these old ones could very well be fouled out. also you need to make sure that the plug is properly grounded while testing in order to a good visual/audiable display of the ignition working properly. while you are cranking the car over does the tach on the dash work? if the trailing coils arent firing the tach will not operate and will just sit at 0. the grounds could also be bad, ignition coil terminals could be corroded, also check and clean the ground block located just below the trailing coil packs. its bolted to the inner strut tower/fender section and is nothing more then a 10mm bolt and a hunk of metal with 6 or 8 tabs that a connector of a bunch of important grounds are on. if it were me i would replace the spark plugs, deflood the engine (unplug the cas, leave the plugs out, fully charged battery crank it over with the plugs removed and gas pedal fully depressed until it stops misting gas out the plug holes, then a small squirt of atf or engine oil in the plug holes, reassemble, replug in cas, and retry to start.)hopefully it will start. you need to test that resistor or get in touch with someone more familiar in the inner working of the ems (like HAILERS) that resistor that you think is damaged may not be (its hard to tell from your pics). you also need to verify that there are little to no leaks after the afm to start the car. ideally there will be no leaks or lose connections. start at the maf and work backwards checking all hoses and clamps to verify they are tight, properly sealed and that none of the hoses are cracked/damaged. after 20 years you would be surprised how brittle and dry rotted those hoses and rubber will be. it sounds like your fuel pump issue is repaired, please properly repair your starter wiring in order to rule out any extra issues. another easy way to verify fuel pump is working properly is to remove the air box cover and air filter, turn the key to on (second forward click) and use a long screw driver handle (the larger blunt end) to push the afm door open a little and you will hear the pump run. if i read right you have another n/a computer coming, good but make sure it is the proper model # to replace yours. make sure all the fuses are good in both fuse panels (under the dash and hood). good luck

further more everyone bickering about wether this is an s4 or s5 is waisting space in this thread. none of that matters when trying to help the op repair the car.

 

Well i already replaced the spark plugs with new ones as well as the wiring for it..

I do see the tach moving up and down when attempting to start it.

I have cleaned some grounds that looked too old but i haven't seen the one below the trailing coils .. i'll be sure to check that monday and clean it if it needs to

and i have also deflood the engine by taking out the EGI fuse and pressing the pedal all the way .

I have checked the hoses but they look to be fine ... and actually they looked like they were replaced already ...

As for the resistor i checked it but it would give me a reading of a 1 ( meaning a break ) and when i test all the resistor next to it that are blue and the ones that looked greyish some gave me a reading of 0.00 ( meaning the resistance is too small for my ohm meter to read but there is one ) and others gave a reading of 1 also

As for the incoming ECU it's the proper model for my car and i already checked and replace the fuses under the dash and the hood

And hopefully i'll be able to properly fix the wiring for the starter by the time i get the ecu

 

I wish I had more input on maybe how to fix your car, but I'll just have to wait and see until after your ECU comes in to see what other symptoms you get. In the mean time, and if you have money, change all the belts/spark plugs/spark plug wires. All three for a JIC scenario and plus with new plugs and wires, better power and gas mileage. Also change the fuel filter if you haven't already. All easy replacements. And sorry if I'm just saying what you have already done.

But I'm glad to see that your taking time to go through and fix the problem. It's an awesome way to learn about these cars. I know on my Porsche, I'm still fixing it and I'm still learning. So yea, I'll check back when you get your ECU in.

 

OP, looks like you're on the right track as far as getting that ECU in. It seems likely your lack of spark is the cause, due to a fried ECU caused by connecting the battery in reverse.

Now let me backtrack a bit. I know you've tested the fuel pump circuit and that's fine. Are you actually getting fuel into both rotors, and getting the spark plugs wet. Just want to make sure fuel is reaching the chambers while you wait for that ECU.

 

Well i'm not really sure ... cause i know the fuel pump is pumping the fuel lines cause i can hear it in the engine bay ... but i don't smell a strong fuel smell when i take the plastic cover off the intake manifold .... and also when i take the spark plugs out i do smell fuel but not a strong one and they do feel kind of wet / cold when i touch them

 

well i haven't changed the belts or the fuel filter yet but i guess it's a good time to do so

 

First off what bar are you talking about?

second it is s5 trim even though it is black there are big diferences in trim on s4 and s5 that is def s5 trim

the rims are the same on s4 s5 gxl's

And the fenders are the same on s4 s5 . So dont clutter this guys thread with false info.

And fear nice looking project

 

If your ecu is indeed fried, I do not think that your injectors will get the signal to open up. Isn't that handled by the map that the ecu has programmed into it?

 

huh ?? can you run that by me agian ?? i don't get what your trying to say ?? sorry

 

The ECU controls fuel and timing. Fuel meaning injector pulse duration according to stored fuel maps which are based on input sensors (airflow meter, coolant temp., TPS position, etc.) and timing based on maps which look at similar inputs (like RPM (from the trailing coil) and such.

If you smell fuel on the spark plugs, the injectors are probably firing. You can verify the ECU is sending voltage pulses by using a multimeter either at the plug to each injector (you'd have to be checking the primary injectors, the ones less accessible, since the secondaries only work at highter RPM/load), or at the ECU. If checking at the ECU, I'd PM Hailers or Icemark, because this is where I would get some expert advice.

 

ok so i have received the ecu yesterday and today i installed it .... i attempt to start the car but still no luck ... so i just gave up cranking it after 15 min of nothing ....

I checked the coils for a spark and i do get a spark ... but it's just a little bit stronger than it used to be with the fired ecu ...

With no luck from the coils giving a good strong spark and still no fuel coming out of the injectors i checked the codes that the ECU has ...

and it gives me trouble code number 2 ... Crank Angle Sensor (NE Signal) so it could be the wiring to the ECU .. the CAS connector or the CAS itself ... but y would it be giving this code since i get a spark ???

 

change it as the battery being in wrong might have fried this to.

 

change it as the battery being in wrong might have fried the cas to.