Need HELP overfueling????
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Need HELP overfueling????
I have a series 4. just had the back rotor rebuilt.
Was running on front cylinder ONLY when the back was gone.
Now i'm having real trouble to ,
get it started, only way (when cold) is to vice grip the fuel line and as it gets running let it off,
Heaps of fuel vapour coming out exhaust if you let it crank.
When hot it won't start at all, it does try but wont run.
However when you get it started it goes real well!!
Just won't idle under about 2000rpm,
now this sounds like a vacum leak to me but i can't find it. Is it becase the seals in the back rotor are new,
I have removed all the emission crap.
But how does the auto choke work,
please can someone help me sort this out??
Was running on front cylinder ONLY when the back was gone.
Now i'm having real trouble to ,
get it started, only way (when cold) is to vice grip the fuel line and as it gets running let it off,
Heaps of fuel vapour coming out exhaust if you let it crank.
When hot it won't start at all, it does try but wont run.
However when you get it started it goes real well!!
Just won't idle under about 2000rpm,
now this sounds like a vacum leak to me but i can't find it. Is it becase the seals in the back rotor are new,
I have removed all the emission crap.
But how does the auto choke work,
please can someone help me sort this out??
#3
Queer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Formerly in the Ass end of the pacific.
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Were the injectors tested and cleaned when you had them out? Who put the injectors in? They may have touched some dirt to them and stuck one of them open.
The car should start fine once you have warmed it up so it seems like some fuel is getting in there somehow.
The only fuel trick I know on these cars is when they are cold they injecto more fuel so if you turn them on and then off it will flood the car.
Once it is running and idling take some WD-40 or carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines. If the idle goes up you have found a leak. Just be careful where you spray that stuff.
The car should start fine once you have warmed it up so it seems like some fuel is getting in there somehow.
The only fuel trick I know on these cars is when they are cold they injecto more fuel so if you turn them on and then off it will flood the car.
Once it is running and idling take some WD-40 or carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines. If the idle goes up you have found a leak. Just be careful where you spray that stuff.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The back rotors spat the apex seals so i went for a quick fix,
I put the injectors in and noticed they sort off fell into there holes!!
Maybe those small seals need replacing??
When i took out the rats nest i plug everything back into the manifold on the nearest fitting...
Things like the BOV, Boost sensor, that diaphram thing (might be the cold start choke)?? and the fuel reg do these have to go to there own fitting or will any do??
I think this might be the problem??
I put the injectors in and noticed they sort off fell into there holes!!
Maybe those small seals need replacing??
When i took out the rats nest i plug everything back into the manifold on the nearest fitting...
Things like the BOV, Boost sensor, that diaphram thing (might be the cold start choke)?? and the fuel reg do these have to go to there own fitting or will any do??
I think this might be the problem??
Trending Topics
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok took off manifold and recheck again.
Made sure no leaks were present.
Blocked up the bleed thing that runs down the exhaust and that bought the idle down, is it meant to be blocked??
Took both sets of injectors out and checked them no leaks, however the stream out of the primarys is more like a squirt of fuel than a fine atomised spray???
is this right....
There was a crack in the inlet pipe for the turbo so i siloconed it and wraped it in tape....
It is still doing the exact same thing!!!!
Takes alot of cranking to start cold with the fuel blocked by a set of vice grips
And won't start when hot!!!!
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Made sure no leaks were present.
Blocked up the bleed thing that runs down the exhaust and that bought the idle down, is it meant to be blocked??
Took both sets of injectors out and checked them no leaks, however the stream out of the primarys is more like a squirt of fuel than a fine atomised spray???
is this right....
There was a crack in the inlet pipe for the turbo so i siloconed it and wraped it in tape....
It is still doing the exact same thing!!!!
Takes alot of cranking to start cold with the fuel blocked by a set of vice grips
And won't start when hot!!!!
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'
m cutting the fuel off by vice griping the line.
However i don't think this is the problem.
Tow started it about 1/2 hour ago and it foul plugs got it running on 2, there is no boost gauge and it feels like it keeps on spooling, VERY FAST....
Still won't idle
what should the compression measure on my gauge
???
PS it's started beeping at me 3 times pause then 3 again,
what does this mean. it's a beep not a buzz
m cutting the fuel off by vice griping the line.
However i don't think this is the problem.
Tow started it about 1/2 hour ago and it foul plugs got it running on 2, there is no boost gauge and it feels like it keeps on spooling, VERY FAST....
Still won't idle
what should the compression measure on my gauge
???
PS it's started beeping at me 3 times pause then 3 again,
what does this mean. it's a beep not a buzz
Last edited by GT4TOY; 05-03-03 at 11:54 PM.
#13
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Well, if you're using new apex seals, it's going to be hard starting. And since you're injector is just pissing fuel rather than spraying, that's not helping any. You're going to want the idle up around 1,000-1,500rpm for a while, and don't boost either. Check out http://www.rotaryresurrection.com about starting rebuilds and breaking them in, even though you've only got one new set of seals on one rotor, it's still going to apply. Btw, get your injectors cleaned or install a fuel cut switch, you're going to fry your pump just crimping the line.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AndyMac
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
01-05-09 11:00 AM