Need Help Never owned A Rotary Engine 1988 FC GTU N/A
#1
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Need Help Never owned A Rotary Engine 1988 FC GTU N/A
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Are you sure you have fuel? Does it start then die or not do anything but spin?
S4s (1986-1988 cars) have a relay in the Air Flow Meter (AFM) that provides power to the fuel pump.
S4s (1986-1988 cars) have a relay in the Air Flow Meter (AFM) that provides power to the fuel pump.
#6
Unflooding procedure taken from Kevin Landers at www.rotaryresurrection.com
Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen:
Remember that you don't need to do this step for an 89-91, just floor the gas while cranking to duplicate this effect. The below instructions are for 86-88s.
1) raise hood
2) remove underhood fuseblock cover
3) remove EGI fuse closest to engine
4) Crank the car over for 5-10 seconds, 2-3 times. Car may start and die, or might sputter as if to start.
5) Replace the egi fuse
6) Quickly get back inside the car and start it up. IF usually helps to floor the gas at this time.
IF this doesn't start your car, proceed to the next phase…
Unflooding a heavily flooded 2gen:
There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:
1) remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2) remove plugwires and lower plugs
3) crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4) obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1⁄2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5) Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or just put a lighter to the electrode to remove gas fouling.
6) Replace plugs and wires.
7) Replace fuses.
8) Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke.
This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method:
86-88 NON TURBO models can utilize a single vacuum hose to inject the atf/oil. In fact there are 2 locations to do so. You can not use a funnel in these methods, you will need a pump to force fluid in.
1) Locate the upper intake manifold, the ribbed aluminum casting that has 13B injection printed on it.
2) On the front end of that intake are 3 vacuum hoses. One is larger than the other 2, the larger one is on top.
3) Remove the larger one. You're going to pump the atf/oil into this HOSE slowly. This hose splits into 4, and leads to all the oil injectors on the block, which inject directly into each combustion chamber. Doing this will not interfere with the oiling duties of the oil injectors later.
4) Pump slowly when doing this, as these are small orifices youre pushing though.
5) 3-4 pumps should do it. Replace the hose and start the car.
The other method for 86-88 NT's:
1) On the same upper intake, on the drivers side, there is a large vacuum hose(about 1") leading in below the BAC. Above that is a small, 3mm vacuum hose.
2) Remove it, you can pump into this nipple, which will squirt atf/oil into both primary intake runners evenly, though this method might require more atf to be injectors(to run down into the engine) and longer to work(to allow time to traverse the length of the intake).
A method for 87-91 turbo engines:
1) Locate the upper intake manifold, passenger side, and the BAC valve (round piece mounted on its side).
2) Above the BAC is a ? shaped hose. Remove it.
3) You can pump into this hose(downward into the upper intake/BAC) which is evenly divided between both primary intake runners, and it will run quickly into each chamber. 4-5 pumps will be enough. You can also use a funnel and hose for this one, as there is no restriction in this hole.
Method for 89-91 nonturbo engines has not yet been found to be practical. IT is best to do the sparkplug method unless you feel like loosening the upper intake manifold and pumping directly into the intake runners.
Remember that you don't need to do this step for an 89-91, just floor the gas while cranking to duplicate this effect. The below instructions are for 86-88s.
1) raise hood
2) remove underhood fuseblock cover
3) remove EGI fuse closest to engine
4) Crank the car over for 5-10 seconds, 2-3 times. Car may start and die, or might sputter as if to start.
5) Replace the egi fuse
6) Quickly get back inside the car and start it up. IF usually helps to floor the gas at this time.
IF this doesn't start your car, proceed to the next phase…
Unflooding a heavily flooded 2gen:
There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:
1) remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2) remove plugwires and lower plugs
3) crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4) obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1⁄2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5) Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or just put a lighter to the electrode to remove gas fouling.
6) Replace plugs and wires.
7) Replace fuses.
8) Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke.
This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method:
86-88 NON TURBO models can utilize a single vacuum hose to inject the atf/oil. In fact there are 2 locations to do so. You can not use a funnel in these methods, you will need a pump to force fluid in.
1) Locate the upper intake manifold, the ribbed aluminum casting that has 13B injection printed on it.
2) On the front end of that intake are 3 vacuum hoses. One is larger than the other 2, the larger one is on top.
3) Remove the larger one. You're going to pump the atf/oil into this HOSE slowly. This hose splits into 4, and leads to all the oil injectors on the block, which inject directly into each combustion chamber. Doing this will not interfere with the oiling duties of the oil injectors later.
4) Pump slowly when doing this, as these are small orifices youre pushing though.
5) 3-4 pumps should do it. Replace the hose and start the car.
The other method for 86-88 NT's:
1) On the same upper intake, on the drivers side, there is a large vacuum hose(about 1") leading in below the BAC. Above that is a small, 3mm vacuum hose.
2) Remove it, you can pump into this nipple, which will squirt atf/oil into both primary intake runners evenly, though this method might require more atf to be injectors(to run down into the engine) and longer to work(to allow time to traverse the length of the intake).
A method for 87-91 turbo engines:
1) Locate the upper intake manifold, passenger side, and the BAC valve (round piece mounted on its side).
2) Above the BAC is a ? shaped hose. Remove it.
3) You can pump into this hose(downward into the upper intake/BAC) which is evenly divided between both primary intake runners, and it will run quickly into each chamber. 4-5 pumps will be enough. You can also use a funnel and hose for this one, as there is no restriction in this hole.
Method for 89-91 nonturbo engines has not yet been found to be practical. IT is best to do the sparkplug method unless you feel like loosening the upper intake manifold and pumping directly into the intake runners.
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#9
Premix wouldn't cause your car to not start. The only problem there is if you don't put premix in when you fill up and screw up your engine.
You should check your compression regardless (www.rotaryresurrection --> Tech), although I can't see it suddenly killing an apex seal after filling up the oil.
You should check your compression regardless (www.rotaryresurrection --> Tech), although I can't see it suddenly killing an apex seal after filling up the oil.
#11
You should read the FAQ and other stickies first. Those will give you enough information to make knowledgable questions.
The right question leads to the right answer.
The right question leads to the right answer.
#12
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smells like its runnin real rich it smelt like it was all gas how do i check my compression in a forum theres a valve type thing to adjust to make it not so rich they said it like to magicly change itself some wtf or something
#13
The FAQ and stickies, search and RotaryResurrection.com contain plenty of information to do a compression test.
The gas smell could be because your engine is flooded.
The gas smell could be because your engine is flooded.
#14
Along with asking questions better, using sentences would help.
There's a lot of things that could cause a gas or gaslike smell: pre-mixing, externally leaking gas in the fuel system (pulsation dampener is a good choice in that regard), flooded, misadjusted fuel control (TPS, AFM, "valve type thing"
etc.)...
If it really is running rich then just do a search and you'll get 589034 threads about how to fix it.
There's a lot of things that could cause a gas or gaslike smell: pre-mixing, externally leaking gas in the fuel system (pulsation dampener is a good choice in that regard), flooded, misadjusted fuel control (TPS, AFM, "valve type thing"
![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If it really is running rich then just do a search and you'll get 589034 threads about how to fix it.
#15
still love the FC
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Originally Posted by wankel1983
smells like its runnin real rich it smelt like it was all gas how do i check my compression in a forum theres a valve type thing to adjust to make it not so rich they said it like to magicly change itself some wtf or something
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...18#post5131218
The only situation I've experienced similar to yours is when I tried to start my car without the Air Flow Meter plugged in. One of the simplest sources of the problem could be a partially bad AFM. You should use a multi-meter and check the resistance sweep or voltage output. You can push the internal flap by hand if you disconnect it from the air filter box.
You really have to start with the basics and work your way through the car's electrical and fuel systems. It is really doubtful that anyone here can give you a "magic" answer to your question without a lot of investigation on your part. You also might consider checking the ECU codes. Here is a link:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
Good luck.
#16
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Thank you
it is running now you guys have been a big help just one more ? it dosent idle high enough can i turn that up ? and it makes a rubbing sound when i let the clutch out do you possibly know what that is ? but it changes speed when i rev it up
it is running now you guys have been a big help just one more ? it dosent idle high enough can i turn that up ? and it makes a rubbing sound when i let the clutch out do you possibly know what that is ? but it changes speed when i rev it up
#17
Idle adjust is in the FSM. Surging idle can be caused by a bad TPS (procedure in the FSM).
Clutch slip, maybe?
The FSM and Haynes manual contain many troubleshooting procedures, which are never a bad place to start where there's a problem.
Clutch slip, maybe?
The FSM and Haynes manual contain many troubleshooting procedures, which are never a bad place to start where there's a problem.
#18
Originally Posted by wankel1983
Thank you
it is running now you guys have been a big help just one more ? it dosent idle high enough can i turn that up ? and it makes a rubbing sound when i let the clutch out do you possibly know what that is ? but it changes speed when i rev it up
it is running now you guys have been a big help just one more ? it dosent idle high enough can i turn that up ? and it makes a rubbing sound when i let the clutch out do you possibly know what that is ? but it changes speed when i rev it up
By clutch out you mean taking your foot off the pedal? If so, the rubbing sound is probably your pilot bearing.
So what did you find out to be the problem with it?
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