So im trying to get the timing done on my new atkins s5 streetported tii motor but im having issues. Ive got my car to idle at about 900 rpms. hooked up the timing light and am trying to time it to about 16 degrees as per this page i found:
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if it matters here is the timing light i am using:
<a href="http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n215/mushroomhead9821/?action=view&amp;current=photo-22.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n215/mushroomhead9821/photo-22.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

with the timing light on 16* hooked up to the leading 1 plug wire no matter how i turn the CAS the grooves on the eccentric pulley will never line up and are always to the left.. only problems i can think of is if the "top dead center" was off by a tooth would my car still run? i know i made sure i got the pattern on the eccentric pulley bolts correct...

 

never use a timing light with a dial, turn it to zero.

2. that post is not talking about the timing at idle, its talking about the timing @peak torque.

 

Whenever possible, set the mechanical timing (base timing) according to the factory procedure. So you will try to line up with the yellow/leading mark which is at -5 BTDC. The computer adjusts the timing relative to that. If the crank angle sensor is off a tooth, then you probably won't be able to get the marks to line up.

One thing that helps with crank angle sensor is to back off the power steering (and I think A/C if you still have it) from the studs. It's tricky to line everything up with that bracket in the way.

 

Thank you j9fds, I kinda had that suspicion but wasn't sure since that post didn't make much sense to me. And @ arghx- luckily I don't have power steering or a/c anymore so that won't be an issue, when I get off work I will pull my cas out to make sure It didn't skip a tooth and re-time it with the dial at 0. Thank you guys for clearing up my confusion hopefully that fixes it

 

had a chance to mess with it after work tonight but im still having issues,

ive put the cas in and out at least 20 times trying to make sure i dont skip a tooth. when putting the cas in with the stud coming through in the middle of the cas i have to fully retard the timing and with the timing light dial set to "0" the yellow mark on the pully is about a half inch away from the pin on the front cover. if i place the cas in with the stud coming through all the way to the right (fully advanced) i can then retard the timing enough to make the yellow mark on the pully line up with the tab on the front cover. however, the engine then has no power and would rather die then rev up... i live in a condo complex so i had to stop for the night before my neighbors complain. i will try some more tomorrow morning but until then im hoping someone might tell me what im doing wrong!

just to rule out any variables there is no difference between series 4/5 or tii/na pullies and C.A.S.'s correct? i know the cas is n370 and i have no idea what the pully came off of since i have so many of them floating around my garage..

 

RotaryEvolution aka Karack looked into mismatched hubs/pulleys a while ago. Interesting stuff. how to properly time your engine while disassembled - RX7Club.com

Cliff notes: There are variances in stock parts. Once the original hub/pulley is lost, a replacement with consistent marks or OEM set is needed. Or you need to confirm the timing marks with the engine disassembled. But I doubt you're wanting to do that.

 

Threw on a different oem pulley and the marks were about three eights of an inch closer to where I needed to be compared to the original pulley I was trying to time with, also realized that my tps was extremely out of tune and that made the biggest difference! Timing seems to be all figured out now thanks for the help!