2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 11-09-10, 11:31 PM
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We don't even know if the motor is "roached" or not, all you said is that you smelled gas. Did you blow an alternator belt? Did the motor overheat? You are giving us nothing real as to the condition of the motor.
Old 11-09-10, 11:49 PM
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The motor runs strong as hell and idel like a champ after warming up. Like I said, the only problems are the alternator belt is broken in half, the headlights went out and smoke screen when I start it, but after like 10-20 secs, It will be fine with no smoke.....
Old 11-10-10, 12:18 AM
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Ok, didn't see that for sure, just saw it hypothesized. Headlight going out is nothing big, hell a busted alternator belt and alternator isn't a big deal either; you are looking at 100 bucks there in all, less if you buy a used alternator off of here.

The entire warning light cluster lighting up is indicative of the Alternator being shot, but taking it off and getting it tested is a good move, you can do that when you go buy a new belt and headlight.

You need to find out for sure if the coolant seals are blown or not. Being November in New Jersey, I assume its cold outside, so some smoke until warmed up isn't an unusual ordeal, neither is an RX-7 not idling well until it is warmed up.

Here is what you must do to find out:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/champagne-test-coolant-seal-803178/

JUST THE FIRST FEW POSTS in that thread.....geez it rambles on into worthlessness... like many threads do here.
Old 11-10-10, 02:37 AM
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I bought a new belt and a used alternator already. I will get a set of lights later. The mojor problem i worry about is the smoke and i will look into that post that you gave me, thanks a lot for helping me man, thanks a lot!

Last edited by devilxavierz; 11-10-10 at 02:40 AM.
Old 11-10-10, 05:57 AM
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keep in mind if your car does not start right away it will continue to dump fuel as long as you keep that key turned, so if its stubborn and it finally fires up it will smoke up from all the fuel, and obviously you will have the smell of fuel.

Perhaps if the seller seemed like he knew the car he could give you a hand out of good faith. I have sold quite a few FCs to first time buyers and I always go over details of the car with them including educating them how to start the car should it be stubborn so it does not flood out. if one of those people contact me later I always try to help them out, even got one a headlight switch 2 months later and would not take any money from him for it.

Dont go tearing into the motor yet, because another thing I can tell you about those FCs I bought and sold- everyone one of them were diagnosed with a bad motor and every one of them ran for years and years after I got them running due to simple misdiagnosis.
Old 11-10-10, 06:01 AM
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Contact KDR Rotory in PA.

http://www.kdrotary.com/

He will get you sorted out -great prices and great work.

Sorry man -that really sucks.
Old 11-10-10, 09:12 AM
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when i first got to his house, i saw a cardboard under the car and when i drove away the car, the add coolant light went on....
Old 11-10-10, 09:55 AM
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When I bought my car, the front iron was cracked but the coolant seal was intact. It took MONTHS for the add coolant buzzer to come on. Burp system and roll for several more months before it'd do it again.

Ran fine like that for 2 years. The seller didn't know it when he sold it, and it took me a while to figure it out.

Just replaced the motor in march, and lo' an behold, 3 cracks in my front iron but all my seals where intact. It'd allow exhaust gas into the coolant but wouldn't let coolant into the chamber. The motor was wore the hell out anyway due to it having 160k miles on it, so no big deal really.

I spent $5000 on the engine and new housings, irons, plus some new fuel injectors and other misc. parts. That includes R&R and labor.
Old 11-10-10, 05:21 PM
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so what should be the number that i want to see on my cooling system pressure test?
Old 11-10-10, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sunburn
Contact KDR Rotory in PA.

http://www.kdrotary.com/

He will get you sorted out -great prices and great work.

Sorry man -that really sucks.

that place is too far, i think there's one called JPR?? around south jersey. I heard they are pretty good at rotary
Old 11-10-10, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
keep in mind if your car does not start right away it will continue to dump fuel as long as you keep that key turned, so if its stubborn and it finally fires up it will smoke up from all the fuel, and obviously you will have the smell of fuel.

Perhaps if the seller seemed like he knew the car he could give you a hand out of good faith. I have sold quite a few FCs to first time buyers and I always go over details of the car with them including educating them how to start the car should it be stubborn so it does not flood out. if one of those people contact me later I always try to help them out, even got one a headlight switch 2 months later and would not take any money from him for it.

Dont go tearing into the motor yet, because another thing I can tell you about those FCs I bought and sold- everyone one of them were diagnosed with a bad motor and every one of them ran for years and years after I got them running due to simple misdiagnosis.
thanks for the advise, i see that you are a good seller man.
Old 11-10-10, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
When I bought my car, the front iron was cracked but the coolant seal was intact. It took MONTHS for the add coolant buzzer to come on. Burp system and roll for several more months before it'd do it again.

Ran fine like that for 2 years. The seller didn't know it when he sold it, and it took me a while to figure it out.

Just replaced the motor in march, and lo' an behold, 3 cracks in my front iron but all my seals where intact. It'd allow exhaust gas into the coolant but wouldn't let coolant into the chamber. The motor was wore the hell out anyway due to it having 160k miles on it, so no big deal really.

I spent $5000 on the engine and new housings, irons, plus some new fuel injectors and other misc. parts. That includes R&R and labor.
I really dont think my engine has any problem. Im just worrying about the coolant seal because I saw the oil stink until my engine bay. Do you know how much is it to just fix the coolant seal or rebuild it or get a new one?
Old 11-10-10, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by devilxavierz
I really dont think my engine has any problem.
If it's smoking as bad as you say, yes you do. Pics would help. There is an acceptable amount of smoke and an unacceptable one.

Also, were you starting and idling the car with a snapped alternator belt too? Have your battery tested too now.
Old 11-10-10, 06:17 PM
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Why is everyone here so ******* stupid except for a handful of us?
Specifically the people under 300 posts.

LEARN HOW TO ******* SPELL AND USE GRAMMAR. TALK IN COMPLETE SENTENCES AND PUT YOUR ******* THOUGHTS TOGETHER BEFORE WRITING THEM DOWN AND SOUNDING LIKE AN IDIOT.

HOW LONG DID YOU DRIVE WITH THE COOLANT LIGHT ON?

**** YOU OP FOR WASTING MY TIME. LEARN HOW TO RESEARCH THINGS BEFORE YOU DO THEM. YOU FUCKED YOURSELF.
Old 11-10-10, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hazard15301
If it's smoking as bad as you say, yes you do. Pics would help. There is an acceptable amount of smoke and an unacceptable one.

Also, were you starting and idling the car with a snapped alternator belt too? Have your battery tested too now.
yes, the volt is around 12 so i think it will be fine but i will get everything tested
Old 11-10-10, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Why is everyone here so ******* stupid except for a handful of us?
Specifically the people under 300 posts.

LEARN HOW TO ******* SPELL AND USE GRAMMAR. TALK IN COMPLETE SENTENCES AND PUT YOUR ******* THOUGHTS TOGETHER BEFORE WRITING THEM DOWN AND SOUNDING LIKE AN IDIOT.

HOW LONG DID YOU DRIVE WITH THE COOLANT LIGHT ON?

**** YOU OP FOR WASTING MY TIME. LEARN HOW TO RESEARCH THINGS BEFORE YOU DO THEM. YOU FUCKED YOURSELF.
sorry man, this is my frist RX7 and I drove with the coolant light on for like 2 mins then I went to auto zone and filled the coolant..... watch your words, they are unnecessary
Old 11-10-10, 06:42 PM
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^^ Excuse me for not posting often. My post count has nothing to do with my knowledge of the rotary engine nor my intelligence. If you read my posts they are always decent grammatically and I gave real advice. A small number next to the word posts means nothing to me. If the OP doesn't want to read our advice then it's his fault.

OP, if you want our help, the other posters are right, you need to seriously answer the questions so someone can evaluate your situation, because it could be more than one thing.
Old 11-10-10, 06:42 PM
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results from "Champagne" Test?
Old 11-10-10, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Why is everyone here so ******* stupid except for a handful of us?
Specifically the people under 300 posts.

LEARN HOW TO ******* SPELL AND USE GRAMMAR. TALK IN COMPLETE SENTENCES AND PUT YOUR ******* THOUGHTS TOGETHER BEFORE WRITING THEM DOWN AND SOUNDING LIKE AN IDIOT.

HOW LONG DID YOU DRIVE WITH THE COOLANT LIGHT ON?

**** YOU OP FOR WASTING MY TIME. LEARN HOW TO RESEARCH THINGS BEFORE YOU DO THEM. YOU FUCKED YOURSELF.


take it easy on the guy, if he wasted so much of your time why bother wasting more of it with this disgusting response?
Old 11-10-10, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by EnjoiPugs
^^ Excuse me for not posting often. My post count has nothing to do with my knowledge of the rotary engine nor my intelligence. If you read my posts they are always decent grammatically and I gave real advice. A small number next to the word posts means nothing to me. If the OP doesn't want to read our advice then it's his fault.

OP, if you want our help, the other posters are right, you need to seriously answer the questions so someone can evaluate your situation, because it could be more than one thing.
I am trying my best to expalin my situation. And I am always answer the questions seriously.....
Old 11-10-10, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
results from "Champagne" Test?
I have not gone there yet. I will do it next week on my day off
Old 11-10-10, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
take it easy on the guy, if he wasted so much of your time why bother wasting more of it with this disgusting response?
Dont worry about him. Im trying to find out what is going on with my car. I am here to learn, not to fight with nonsense people
Old 11-10-10, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by devilxavierz
I am trying my best to expalin my situation. And I am always answer the questions seriously.....
Sorry man, like I said I was in a similar position about 2 years back. It's a really crappy position to be in. I know you're taking it seriously, how couldn't you. Best of luck to getting it figured out.
Old 11-10-10, 07:47 PM
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Not that it is your biggest issue here but, regarding your headlights, it is unlikely they both failed at the same time.you should test the system in this order.

Check fuses, check connections, check relays, check headlight switch and check integrity of your wiring harness.
Old 11-10-10, 08:18 PM
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I blew 2 low beam lights at the same time by trying to jump start a really dead battery, AND I blew the main fuse!

Who would have thought?


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