need confirmation for non-op power window
05-16-09, 02:26 PM
#1
need confirmation for non-op power window
my passenger side window does not go down. it will not go down from the driver or passenger side switch. when i hook my battery directly to the motor it goes up and down just fine. i have replaced the passenger switch with a known good one and no difference. it's the driver side switch right? anything else it could be? 
05-16-09, 02:47 PM
#2
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sounds like the driver side switch, you make sure the thing is on?
05-16-09, 03:22 PM
#3
+1 when i bought my t2 from my good friend who had owned it previously for 5 years, he said that the passenger window switch didn't work. I turned it "on" from the driver switch and it worked just fine, lol. Try sanding the contacts at the driver switch as well...
05-16-09, 03:24 PM
#4
my passenger side window does not go down. it will not go down from the driver or passenger side switch. when i hook my battery directly to the motor it goes up and down just fine. i have replaced the passenger switch with a known good one and no difference. it's the driver side switch right? anything else it could be?
You should replace/fix the switch, then do the relay mod. Never replace a switch again.
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05-16-09, 10:27 PM
#8
On the FC our switches carry the full electrical load of the power window motor. The contacts are not overdesigned, but seem to be rather marginal even when new. When the contacts arc a little and have some carbon buildup and the window tracks become a little dirty the load exceeds the capaciy of the switch. Then the switch really wears and quickly fails.
By using two relays, one for up and one for down. the switch is no longer carrying the electrical load. It is only carrying the relay coil current, rated in milliamps. The relay carries the load of the window motor, which may be up into the 15 amp range.
If a relay burns out, it is cheap and easy to replace, unlike our switches.
I replaced my driver and passenger window switches when I first got the car. I then had to rebuild my driver window switch again later. The windows moved slow even after I cleaned all the guides and re-lubed them. Once I added relays the windows run easy, fast, smooth and both move at the same speed.
there is a write up somewhere, Icemark gave the advice and posted diagrams several times.
05-19-09, 06:46 PM
#10
i think i found the culprit...
this plug comes from the door and goes into the cabin. i can not find where it plugs into? i thought there were just 2 green plugs that come from the door harness but this plug is attached to one of the green plugs. anyone know where it goes?
this plug comes from the door and goes into the cabin. i can not find where it plugs into? i thought there were just 2 green plugs that come from the door harness but this plug is attached to one of the green plugs. anyone know where it goes?
05-20-09, 12:27 PM
#11
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that plug is weird! is this the vert?
in retrospect, i think its weird that the horn uses a relay, and the windows dont
in retrospect, i think its weird that the horn uses a relay, and the windows dont
05-20-09, 01:29 PM
#13
Take the both switches apart and clean the connector side of the switch. Youre gonna need a flat head to take the black plastic from the white box. Inside the switch itself there is something that looks like this }. Clean that and both ends of it. I did mine with some sand paper and haven't had a problem since. Also check your fuses. 
05-20-09, 02:02 PM
#14
Take the both switches apart and clean the connector side of the switch. Youre gonna need a flat head to take the black plastic from the white box. Inside the switch itself there is something that looks like this }. Clean that and both ends of it. I did mine with some sand paper and haven't had a problem since. Also check your fuses.
06-08-09, 02:54 PM
#16
Go to Pull-a-Part and get yourself the power window switches out of the OLD boxy style Mazda MPV...I've found them in tan, blue and gray... The passenger side will use the RX-7's passenger side plug without incident, but you will need to cut the plug off the MPV driver's side switch and splice the wires...some of the color codes are different, so just test and tune it 'till you're done. Don't forget to solder all of your connections properly and use heat-shrink tubing, NOT electrical tape.
06-08-09, 03:01 PM
#18
Alright, well it is highly unlikely that all of the switches are fully corroded, so it sounds like your wiring. Go buy a multimeter and measure continuity or resistance between the plug end that connects to the motor and the plug end where the door harness connects with the body harness inside the kick panel. Also be sure that you're getting voltage from the body harness.
06-08-09, 03:30 PM
#19
that wire you pictured almost looks like the harness for the door courtesy light- is that light hooked up?
even on a vert there is only 2 plugs that go into the cabin.
Your door may have been replaced at one time, alot of shops would get a replacement door with no wiring so they would have to take the wiring out of one door and put it to the other.
even on a vert there is only 2 plugs that go into the cabin.
Your door may have been replaced at one time, alot of shops would get a replacement door with no wiring so they would have to take the wiring out of one door and put it to the other.
06-08-09, 03:37 PM
#20
i swapped the doors on my 87 with an 88...i didnt realize the harnesses were different. that extra clip was for the auto lock. i swapped the door harnesses back and now only have 2 plugs going into the cabin.
the window works now it is just really slow to go up. it goes down just fine.
i should be able to figure it out from here...hopefully its the same with 12v directly at the motor. i dont want to mess with this wiring nightmare anymore.
the window works now it is just really slow to go up. it goes down just fine.
i should be able to figure it out from here...hopefully its the same with 12v directly at the motor. i dont want to mess with this wiring nightmare anymore.
Last edited by 87 t-66; 06-08-09 at 03:41 PM.
08-03-09, 02:32 PM
#22
Displacement Replacement
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I have this same problem, i rebuilt my switches thinkin it would fix my problem, but still nothing,
was there any visual damage to the door harness?? , i think i might try takin the one outta my parts car, hopefully it works
spray some silicone lube in the rubber window tracks where it contacts the outer edge of the glass and your window will go up like new
was there any visual damage to the door harness?? , i think i might try takin the one outta my parts car, hopefully it works
spray some silicone lube in the rubber window tracks where it contacts the outer edge of the glass and your window will go up like new
08-31-09, 04:02 PM
#23
i finally got around to replacing the window regulator today...i took one out of another door i had, cleaned it and installed it. both windows go up and down now! i can even raise/lower the passenger side from the driver side switch. very happy. i can finally put my door panel back on. 
