JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've got an 89 convertible that I'm putting a clifford alarm into (Arrow 5). Does my car use negative door trigger circuits? Or as my install guide puts it...

h1/9 green (-) door trigger input - zone 4
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the GREEN wire to a wire
showing ground when any door is opened. When connecting to newer model vehicles
there is generally a need to use individual door triggers. This wire will report Zone 4.

Does anyone know of any links to other threads dealing with aftermarket alarm installs? From what I've read my factory alarm is in the CPU and can't be removed, but it's been a while since I read that one and can't remember the specifics of it.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

there is a switch to the rear of the door sill on the outside of the car, if you pull the carpet back you can disconnect the wire and use an ohmeter to find it up by the fuse box, on my 87 there was 3 plugs going to the rear wire harness, I used the ohmmeter to find the correct wire, hook up one end of the ohmeter to ground and flick the door switch in the OHM reading should show short with the switch out and overload with it in, if you have a test light then hook one end up to POS and you will get a light when the switch is out(door open) and no light vise versa, I am not farmiliar with the convertable but my hatchback has another wire for the hatch to show if that is open or not, and the clifford alarm alows for trunk open input as well do the same, there is a wire inside the latch that shows ground when my hatch is open, i am sure there is something similar on the convertable

Wizz

If I remember correctly the trigger connects to ground w/ the door open.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the input.

I'm in over my head with this install, but I'm kinda stuck. Picked up a great deal on ebay on this alarm. But in the time it took for auction to end and me to get the alarm....my only local Clifford dealer goes out of business. I figured no big thing, it's all DEI, but no. Only licensed dealers will handle installs for liability reasons. With my local dealer going out of business, that leaves me with a dealer something like 2 hours away as my "local" dealer.

I found this on 12volt.com for 89 RX7's

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...tail/1407.html

It was getting late tonight, but I traced my door trigger and the website is correct. It's blue and white. While tracing that wire I found the trunk trigger....but it was getting late and I was getting hungry. I'll work on it more tomorrow.

What I still don't understand is the positive door trigger, light flash input and output, ground when armed, and over-riding the factory alarm.

For the (+) door trigger the Arrow documentation says to connect to any wire that shows (+)12V when any door is open.

Am I making this more difficult than it really is or do you simply connect to any constant power?

I apologize about my newbness, if I could pay someone to do the install for me I would.

Icemark

No positive door trigger on a Mazda. You don't hook up that wire

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks much apreciated. Actually I'm glad you posted. I needed to email you about service. PM sent.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

With help this is what I've figured out so far.....

Arrow 5 harness:

Ground: Black = ground to the car
Hood/trunk trigger(-): Blue = Grey(-) Trunk pin on the car
Door trigger input(+): Violet = not wired in
Door trigger input(-): Green = Blue/white(-) Door trigger
12V Constant(+): Red = to the battery w/ fuse holder
Siren output: Brown(+) = Red (+) on siren/Black(-) ground to the car

This is what I still need to learn/find out

Arrow 5 harness

Light Flash Input: White/red
h1/12 white/red light flash input
This wire is the input for the on-board dual light flash relay. If the vehicle has positive parking light activation wires, connect this wire to a constant (+) 12V source that is fused at 15A or higher (be sure to use the supplied fuse holder and a 15 amp fuse). If the vehicle parking light activation wire is negative, connect this wire to a chassis ground location.

According to 12volt.com, my parking lights = Red/black, my headlamp = Red/white

Light Flash Output: White
Light Flash Output: White
These wires are the output of an on-board dual make relay and should be connected to wires in the vehicle that control the parking light wire polarity. The dual outputs are designed for European vehicles with isolated parking light systems. If the vehicle’s parking lights are controlled by a single wire, connect both WHITE wires to it.

IMPORTANT! The polarity of this wire is determined by the connection of the H1/12
light flash input wire. Always confirm light flash polarity


No clue what to do with these

Dome Light Supervision Output: Black/white(-)

Connect the H1/15 BLACK/WHITE wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown in the following diagram.

IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more bulbs.

Sorry the diagram wouldn't cut-n-paste, but it's a DEI relay that I've got an extra of. I just need to find some literature on it so I know what the wire colors correspond to. I assume that similar to finding the door trigger polarities, I locate the negative and go from there.

Accessory Output A: Red/white

When the system receives the code controlling the accessory output, this wire will supply an output as long as the transmission continues. This is often used to operate a trunk/hatch release or other relay-driven function.
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output can only supply 200 mA of current. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other high-current device will cause it to fail.

This would be used when/if I add door actuator or trunk release??

Ground When Armed: Orange

This wire provides a (-) ground output as long as the system is armed and will ceas when the system is disarmed. This output can be used for an additional immobilizer relay or to control additional accessories such as window automation, voice modules, or pagers.

No clue with this one either

Ignition Input: Yellow

Connect this wire to the (+) 12V ignition wire that is (+) 12V in the igntion and crank positions.. Take great care that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point.

This I'm guessing goes to Starter (Black/blue) wire or Ignition (Black/white) coming off the cars ignition harness??

Sorry bout the long post, I'm lost.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

Arrow 5 harness:

Ground: Black = ground to the car
Hood/trunk trigger(-): Blue = Grey(-) Trunk pin on the car
Door trigger input(+): Violet = not wired in
Door trigger input(-): Green = Blue/white(-) Door trigger
12V Constant(+): Red = to the battery w/ fuse holder
Siren output: Brown(+) = Red (+) on siren/Black(-) ground to the car


This is what I still need to learn/find out

Arrow 5 harness

Light Flash Input: White/red
h1/12 white/red light flash input
This wire is the input for the on-board dual light flash relay. If the vehicle has positive parking light activation wires, connect this wire to a constant (+) 12V source that is fused at 15A or higher (be sure to use the supplied fuse holder and a 15 amp fuse). If the vehicle parking light activation wire is negative, connect this wire to a chassis ground location.

splice this wire into your main pos into the alarm

According to 12volt.com, my parking lights = Red/black, my headlamp = Red/white

Light Flash Output: White
Light Flash Output: White
These wires are the output of an on-board dual make relay and should be connected to wires in the vehicle that control the parking light wire polarity. The dual outputs are designed for European vehicles with isolated parking light systems. If the vehicle’s parking lights are controlled by a single wire, connect both WHITE wires to it.

IMPORTANT! The polarity of this wire is determined by the connection of the H1/12
light flash input wire. Always confirm light flash polarity


just what it says, connect both white wires to the relay that turns on park lights, not headlights, unless you want them flipping up and down when you arm the alarm, if the output of these wires isn't high then you need a relay check the output current

No clue what to do with these

Dome Light Supervision Output: Black/white(-)

Connect the H1/15 BLACK/WHITE wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown in the following diagram.

IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more bulbs.

Well without the diagram its hard, but my clifford i just hooked it up to the same wire as the -door trigger input, then the light came on when the alarm wanted it to,

Sorry the diagram wouldn't cut-n-paste, but it's a DEI relay that I've got an extra of. I just need to find some literature on it so I know what the wire colors correspond to. I assume that similar to finding the door trigger polarities, I locate the negative and go from there.


Accessory Output A: Red/white

When the system receives the code controlling the accessory output, this wire will supply an output as long as the transmission continues. This is often used to operate a trunk/hatch release or other relay-driven function.
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output can only supply 200 mA of current. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other high-current device will cause it to fail.

This would be used when/if I add door actuator or trunk release??

yep trunk release

Ground When Armed: Orange

This wire provides a (-) ground output as long as the system is armed and will ceas when the system is disarmed. This output can be used for an additional immobilizer relay or to control additional accessories such as window automation, voice modules, or pagers.

No clue with this one either

not sure since you have factory alarm, didn't use this in my setup since no factory alarm, see what your input is to arm factory alarm, hook it up to a relay, if its pos driven to activate your alarm then hook this up to a relay in order to provice pos voltage to arm fac system

Ignition Input: Yellow

Connect this wire to the (+) 12V ignition wire that is (+) 12V in the igntion and crank positions.. Take great care that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point.

This I'm guessing goes to Starter (Black/blue) wire or Ignition (Black/white) coming off the cars ignition harness??

just put a voltmeter on the wires, one of those you are speaking of should be it, if its 12v in RUN and START that is it, just like they say, see if its ever ground, just hook up one lead of your voltmeter to POS and the other to the wire in question and move the key around, should never show voltage

what that is going to do is trigger an alarm if armed and someone tries to start your car, also it will help with dome light supervision, also if you have the retained acc power it will help that out too

Sorry bout the long post, I'm lost.[/QUOTE]

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Well I'm finally getting back to installing the alarm.

Is anyone familiar with using DEI 451M with the door actuator DEI524N?

Prior to getting the 451M I had been told to use 2 relays and diodes. Here is the advice I got from the12volt.com
You need to add an actuator in the driver's door to control the door locks. You need to wire up 2 relays to activate the actuator. All you need to do is split the unlock wire output from your alarm into two branches and isolate the circuits with 2 diodes. One unlock wire goes to one relay to power the actuator and the other to the light green/black wire in the driver's kick panel. This is the disarm wire and is a negative trigger. The bands of the diodes should face the alarm. Do the same with the lock ouput wire from the alarm. The rearm wire is a green/black wire in the driver's kick panel. This way the alarm will arm/disarm the factory alarm too.

Is that still accurate or does having the 451M make relays and diodes unnecessary?

So far as I can tell from what I've read, to wire in the 451M:
3pin harness = Arrow 5
White/Black = ground
Brown/Black = ground
Green/Black = 524N Green
Blue/Black = 524N Blue
Purple/Black fused = constant 12v

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've got the basics of the alarm installed and working. I haven't touched the lights, ignition or starter disable. But I've got the alarm arming and disarming and the siren working. It's giving me the correct series of beeps per the Clifford install guide. I haven't tested the shock sensor yet cause it's not attached firmly enough yet. I've got the sensitivity turned all the way down.

I've got one question that I'm hoping Icemark or one of electronic gurus can answer.

I've got my door actuator wired through the 451 module by splitting the 3 pin harness green wire. With green going to factory disarm light green/black with an IN4004 diode with the stripe facing the alarm. It's working flawlessly with my Clifford remote to disarm both the factory and Clifford alarm and also unlock the door.

What I'm not clear on is the factory arm wire color? Is it the same as disarm (lg/b)?

I know I need to split blue wire from that same harness with the same type of diode going to factory arm wire. I'm just not clear if the same wire arms and disarms or if it's two different ones.

One other thing that just came to me.

I'm wanting to take the Clifford alarm light and have my Clifford using the factory "security light" instead. Is it as simple as clipping the light from the Clifford harness and running two wires and plugging them into the factory bulb harness? It seems that simple but I don't want to make some stupid mistake.

Icemark

factory arm, does not work the same way as disarm.

The arm requires you to lock the door with the latch switch (door lock on the inside of the door, where you open the door from) with the door open.

So to trick into arming, you need to have ground on the door trigger at the same time as locking (which generally triggers the system).

So your best bet is to manually lock the door with the door open, close it (while holding the exterior door handle up), and once closed, then arm the aftermarket system.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the reply

So with Mazda's system I can't use the actuator to lock the door remotely. That's unfortunate, but not a big thing. Remote unlock is more important

I have been doing exactly what you suggested.

I'm curious what would have happened if I had hooked my blue wire into the factory disarm? Advice from the12volt.com was to wire the blue into the green/black also. The reason I got suspicious was that I knew lt.green/black was disarm. The person said do the same with blue on the green/black factory. I saw on the CPU there was both light green/black and green/black. I looked at the FSM to try and decipher their specific purpose. Wiring diagrams most often confuse me.

nvrdone

You just need to arm the alarm, screw arming the factory alarm, it just causes more problems. Any auto start/alarm I have ever installed I have not hooked messed with the factory security arming. You don't need to arm the factory alarm, just the aftermarket one. I think your making this really hard.

Tap off of your negative door unlock wire and run it to disarm, now everytime you unlock your doors you disarm the factory alarm. Odds are when you lock the doors, it arms the factory anyways.

The dome light sensor is not needed. hook up the door sensor, not locks, to the door pin.

You have accessory right

ground when armed not needed unless you have some kinda modules or something

hook ignition to igniton wire on car.