Nancy Drew and the Case of the Dissapearing Clutch Fluid
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Nancy Drew and the Case of the Dissapearing Clutch Fluid
My clutch fluid is constantly disappearing and I can't find any leaks anywhere, and there's no way in heck that it could be evaporating this fast, so any ideas on where it's going to?
I have a stainless clutch line (coated with plastic tool dip) and a relatively new slave cylinder. My master is getting a little rusty and it's the only part I haven't replaced, but I can't find any wet spots...
I have a stainless clutch line (coated with plastic tool dip) and a relatively new slave cylinder. My master is getting a little rusty and it's the only part I haven't replaced, but I can't find any wet spots...
#4
Did you check the matting to see if it's soggy?
Feel the pushrod to the MC and see if it's wet or pull the boot and see if it's filled with fluid?
Since brake fluid doesn't really "evaporate" per se, it's leaking somewhere...out either end of the system or a leaky hose connection.
Feel the pushrod to the MC and see if it's wet or pull the boot and see if it's filled with fluid?
Since brake fluid doesn't really "evaporate" per se, it's leaking somewhere...out either end of the system or a leaky hose connection.
#5
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It can leak out of the slave cylinder, along the rod, down the clutch fork and into the bellhousing. That may be where it is disappearing to.
Not sure it really matters though. If there is a fault in the system, just replace the clutch, master and hose. Because if you replace one, then it is almost certain the other parts will fail soon after.
Not sure it really matters though. If there is a fault in the system, just replace the clutch, master and hose. Because if you replace one, then it is almost certain the other parts will fail soon after.
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#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Geh, that might explain why my newish ACT HD clutch hasn't felt like when it was new since...it was new. OTOH, I replaced the slave months ago and it's been leaking since before then, I think. Or maybe it was after...
#13
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Scratch that, my floor mats were literally SOAKED in brake fluid... and they aren't very easy to remove, either. Guess it's time to spend half a paycheck on a new master... my old one is super ugly anyway (rusty and the bottle is basically black on the bottom half).
#14
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
#15
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
#16
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
#18
MECP Certified Installer
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Mine has been doing the same thing. It leaks ever so slightly at the firewall. It has taken an entire year for the fluid level to go down. Very slow leak. I'll just replace it when it dies.
#19
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The HD pressure plate is too much for the master and slave cylinders. They can't handle the additional pressure. Try this: with the engine off, hold the clutch to the floor for about 2 minutes. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal does it stay down? I've seen old slave cylinders leak fluid from the seal when they're used with heavy PP. The fluid stays in the boot then runs down the side of the transmission or into the bell housing and down the throwout arm.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
On another note, WTF! Advance Auto gave me the wrong master. It's VERY VERY similar but doesn't fit flush with the firewall because the studs are different and the part that goes into the firewall is just slightly longer.
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The HD pressure plate is too much for the master and slave cylinders. They can't handle the additional pressure. Try this: with the engine off, hold the clutch to the floor for about 2 minutes. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal does it stay down? I've seen old slave cylinders leak fluid from the seal when they're used with heavy PP. The fluid stays in the boot then runs down the side of the transmission or into the bell housing and down the throwout arm.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
I believe he was talking about the Pressure Plate, not clutch.
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#24
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Clutch feels a lot better now that I've replaced...basically everything you can replace. It feels more like it did when I just installed the new clutch.
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