RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Someone tear one down and see.

RXciting

lol time for me to check the FSM!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I would highly doubt it. Why would you even try? By the time you put the time and energy into that, you could have easily put in an t2 drivetrain and the worry would be taken care of.

Make your own conclusions. Look at mine which was NEVER launched hard and was treated right...and consider the additional stress of hard launches, and the following information:

I thought it sucked. I got mine in near new condition on a core motor...had I paid real money for it I would have been PISSED. It died within 1000 miles of moderate use. The first and only time I did a clutch dump/burnout attempt it **** the bed totally.

Yeah, that's what I said for the last year or so. IT was PERFECT until the gears just fell out of the ****** driving down the interstate cruising with no load or abuse at all. It gave NO warning.

When was the last time you exceeded 160mph? IF you haven't, then the ratio difference won't matter at all to you. It'd actually help the acceleration a hair. Gas mileage? Are you kidding me?

I think with reasonable launches (or lack thereof) and a sprung organic face clutch disc you could get by with 1-2 years like I did and still have reasonable amount of grip. If I had it to do over again I'd stay with a stock disc and go with only an upgraded PP for additional clamping force. Regardless of what clutch you run, I think you WILL tear the NA tranny out eventually if you run enough power (200+). To me, it was never a matter of will it, but when will it go out.

Nope...clutch and flywheel are totally different, as are the entire drivetrains flywheel-back.

Ryu

i agree with all that was just said. for me, i'm using an NA drive line because of money. at the time i didn't have the extra cash for a TII tranny and rear end so i stuck with the NA driveline. i don't expect the tranny to hold up forever and i'm basically trying to keep a little money in the bank for WHEN it blows.

SureShot

On my prevoius NA, about 2 years ago I chipped a tooth on the input gear.
I could hear it ticking, so I just drove easy.
When I priced a replacement input shaft, it was $90.
I ended up swapping the tranny.

Tofuball

Very good info throughout the thread. Thanks for the pictures too

theflatlander

iTrader: (3)

good thing to know, kinda makes me wish i didn't get a 6-puck(kinda) all well i've got a beater to deal with when the tranny blows and then i'll go with TII gear.

DerangedHermit

Anybody ever had a N/A tranny go out on the highway cruising at ~60. This is behind a N/A engine. Mine did without warning and I'm wondering if this is a fluke or what.

Any tips how to open the tranny up? I got it part of the way open but couldn't find the "trick" (I'm sure it's something insanely obvious) to get it completely open so I could see the gears. I'd like to see what damage the tranny actually has.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Mine did, that's how I killed it. While it was not technically behind an NA engine....

I was climbing a hill in 5th gear, at around 9-10 PSI. The transmission started making a horrible squealing sound, then a few seconds later a sickening "clunk-snap". Coasted to the side of the road, and found that I had no drive in any gear....Got it towed home, and removal of the transmission showed a broken input shaft....Also, no transmission oil at all. As nearly as I can tell, the rear seal let go just after I got on the highway, and the transmission ran bone dry in about 30 miles...

RETed

Turbo gears are wider.
This allows higher loads.
I think the turbo gears are heat-treated for added strength.


-Ted

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

The TII case is a stonger gusseted design w/ seperate bell housing as well.

The stiff case keeps the gears under full mesh better under higher loads so you don't chip off teeth like on the NA trannies.

For instance, the Guru TII trans. dog box conversion has an additional bolt in girdle to further reinforce the case because even the tough "type R" TII transmission needs help sometimes...600hp drag launches....

FDreaming

i would be extemely interested to know if the TII tranny's basic function(one gear converting power to all the little ones) is the same as a N/As I ask because I have access EXTEMELY cheap rebuild parts, and a good friend who rebuilds trannies, being one of the many planning on putting alot of boost into an N/A motor I'd like to keep the lighter tranny and longer gears (I plan on entering some ORR events for fun down the road.) So if I could simply swap in the TII piece for the weaker N/A one that would be fantastic, if not I might just use this priceless information and spend some extra time on that piece shot-peening deburring cryotreating, whatever see if I can make it hold up to the 300+whp I'm aiming for.

Icemark

That is R type tranny, not ricer type R.

DerangedHermit

That sucks... Anyways though, I mean behind a stock N/A engine and the tranny DOES have oil in it .

RXciting

how many Miles/KM on the tranny and what kinda oil was used in it??

Frank

DerangedHermit

As far as I know 120k (original to the car) and I'm not sure on the type of oil. I would say non-synthetic.

patman

iTrader: (3)

back when i had a modded NA (~190 hp), i killed 5 trannies. 3 were s4 NA, 2 were FB trannies. surprisingly enough, the FB trannies lasted longer and i liked the ratios better. all on worn stock clutches. I drive very hard, but not hard on trannies in particular. So, not that this post needs any more proof, but yeah, NA trannies are weak.

so far, i havent hurt the TII tranny at all, even with lots of mods and hard driving I had a brand new stock clutch when i built the TII, so im using that (which slips a little on hard accel...dont use these).

pat

ps all of the trannies i killed broke in the same way as the one on pg 1. one of em had brand new bearings in it, so thats not what does it.

patman

iTrader: (3)

oh, derangedhermit, the 'trick'; is to remove all the bolts all the way (pull them out) and twist the tailshaft housing and pull. if i remember correctly you twist counterclockwise, btu its been a while, so im not sure...

pat

DerangedHermit

I got the tailshaft out, but I couldn't get the middle piece out, whatever it's called.

patman

iTrader: (3)

oh. inside the bellhousing, take out the bolts around the input shaft. pull off the cover plate, then take off the lock rings on the bearings. then pop the casing apart however you like....BFH is my favorite.

pat