N/A Drive shaft in T2 swap.. Help
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N/A Drive shaft in T2 swap.. Help
Looking at a 88 RX7 with a T2 angine/tranny swap. Apparently the T2 drive shaft is smaller than the N/A drive shaft. So the drive shaft was shortend to fit, but unfortunatly it was shortened to much, causing a vibration. So it needs to be extended slightly.
1)Is it possible to extend the drive shaft slightly what would it cost?(Ballpark)
2)Would it be better to get a new drive shaft and re shorten it properly?
3)If i could find a T2 drive shaft would it bolt dirrectly in?
Thanks for any help, much appreciated!
1)Is it possible to extend the drive shaft slightly what would it cost?(Ballpark)
2)Would it be better to get a new drive shaft and re shorten it properly?
3)If i could find a T2 drive shaft would it bolt dirrectly in?
Thanks for any help, much appreciated!
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It's probably an automatic driveshaft, since the yolk fits and it bolts up to an N/A rear-end, but is a few inches shorter than it should be. Just get a TII rear-end, or swap a tII flange onto the N/A rear and use a a tII driveshaft.
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Originally posted by Digi7ech
I'm not totally sure what you mean. Do you mean a NA rearend and TII engine and tranny?
I'm not totally sure what you mean. Do you mean a NA rearend and TII engine and tranny?
I called a driveline shop and they said it can be done but its hard to do with out a slight vibration at higher speeds (above 100 KM/H) and it was basically a gamble
What drive shaft are you talking about? Link?
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
It's probably an automatic driveshaft, since the yolk fits and it bolts up to an N/A rear-end, but is a few inches shorter than it should be. Just get a TII rear-end, or swap a tII flange onto the N/A rear and use a a tII driveshaft.
It's probably an automatic driveshaft, since the yolk fits and it bolts up to an N/A rear-end, but is a few inches shorter than it should be. Just get a TII rear-end, or swap a tII flange onto the N/A rear and use a a tII driveshaft.
If i can find a T2 flange/TII drive shaft.
Thanks
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Originally posted by Digi7ech
I am going to buy Mazdatrix's hybrid dive shaft since it is bolt on.
I am going to buy Mazdatrix's hybrid dive shaft since it is bolt on.
BTW thanks for all the help!
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Thanks
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=2691-000
that should be the one $277.68
Any idea where i could find a TII rear end flange?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=2691-000
that should be the one $277.68
Any idea where i could find a TII rear end flange?
#10
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Originally posted by Digi7ech
I thought the joints or something weren't replaceable? wouldn't that flange swap mes with those?
That's another reason why I'm getting the mazdatrix one. It is the after market shaft with replaceable joints.
I thought the joints or something weren't replaceable? wouldn't that flange swap mes with those?
That's another reason why I'm getting the mazdatrix one. It is the after market shaft with replaceable joints.
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I recently just did a full t2 drivetrain swap the drive shaft doesnt bol up you have to bore it out 2 fit the diff
other than that everything from t2 flywheel to t2 rear end is good
other than that everything from t2 flywheel to t2 rear end is good
#14
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I just did the swap tooo... and I used the N/A transmission and driveshaft along with the TII rear.
The flanges on the rearend weren't the same. I tried to swap them out, meaning put the n/a flange on the TII rear so I could use the n/a driveshaft, but the flanges were different. Although the n/a rear flange was S5/90 and the TII rearend was S4/87. Maybe that's why they wouldn't swap.
I still got the n/a driveshaft to work on the 87TII rearend/flange, without any vibrations and I took it up to about 120mph last night.
I had to center the driveshaft on the rearend flange using the raised ring, (you'll see exactly what I'm talking about if you do it) and drill out new holes in the TII rearend flange to match the driveshaft's rear flange. Then the n/a driveshaft flange is smaller in diameter/overall size vs the TII rearend flange so the back of the TII rearend flange had to be grinded to accomodate the bolts to sit flush, (again you'll se exactly what I'm talking about if you do it). It wasn't hard at all.
The flanges on the rearend weren't the same. I tried to swap them out, meaning put the n/a flange on the TII rear so I could use the n/a driveshaft, but the flanges were different. Although the n/a rear flange was S5/90 and the TII rearend was S4/87. Maybe that's why they wouldn't swap.
I still got the n/a driveshaft to work on the 87TII rearend/flange, without any vibrations and I took it up to about 120mph last night.
I had to center the driveshaft on the rearend flange using the raised ring, (you'll see exactly what I'm talking about if you do it) and drill out new holes in the TII rearend flange to match the driveshaft's rear flange. Then the n/a driveshaft flange is smaller in diameter/overall size vs the TII rearend flange so the back of the TII rearend flange had to be grinded to accomodate the bolts to sit flush, (again you'll se exactly what I'm talking about if you do it). It wasn't hard at all.
Last edited by 85TIIDEVIL; 11-27-03 at 07:57 AM.
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Originally posted by 85TIIDEVIL
The flanges on the rearend weren't the same. I tried to swap them out, meaning put the n/a flange on the TII rear so I could use the n/a driveshaft, but the flanges were different. Although the n/a rear flange was S5/90 and the TII rearend was S4/87. Maybe that's why they wouldn't swap.
The flanges on the rearend weren't the same. I tried to swap them out, meaning put the n/a flange on the TII rear so I could use the n/a driveshaft, but the flanges were different. Although the n/a rear flange was S5/90 and the TII rearend was S4/87. Maybe that's why they wouldn't swap.
Originally posted by 85TIIDEVIL
I had to center the driveshaft on the rearend flange using the raised ring, (you'll see exactly what I'm talking about if you do it) and drill out new holes in the TII rearend flange to match the driveshaft's rear flange. Then the n/a driveshaft flange is smaller in diameter/overall size vs the TII rearend flange so the back of the TII rearend flange had to be grinded to accomodate the bolts to sit flush, (again you'll se exactly what I'm talking about if you do it). It wasn't hard at all.
I had to center the driveshaft on the rearend flange using the raised ring, (you'll see exactly what I'm talking about if you do it) and drill out new holes in the TII rearend flange to match the driveshaft's rear flange. Then the n/a driveshaft flange is smaller in diameter/overall size vs the TII rearend flange so the back of the TII rearend flange had to be grinded to accomodate the bolts to sit flush, (again you'll se exactly what I'm talking about if you do it). It wasn't hard at all.
1) Most people are not capable of performing this labor well enough to avoid vibrations.
2) In the end, you still have the nasty old stock driveshaft that is probably about to bind up in its old age.
Better idea:
The Mazdatrix custom driveshaft is a better idea because it fits, it will last a very long time, and it isn't much more expensive than a stock driveshaft.
Best idea:
Buy a NEW TII driveshaft and a good used TII rear subassembly (or TII differential and halfshafts). There isn't much point to adding the heavier TII transmission while still using the weak NA driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts.
#17
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This will work, but it's not usually such a great idea because:
1) Most people are not capable of performing this labor well enough to avoid vibrations.
1) Most people are not capable of performing this labor well enough to avoid vibrations.
2) In the end, you still have the nasty old stock driveshaft that is probably about to bind up in its old age.
Better idea:
The Mazdatrix custom driveshaft is a better idea because it fits, it will last a very long time, and it isn't much more expensive than a stock driveshaft.
Better idea:
The Mazdatrix custom driveshaft is a better idea because it fits, it will last a very long time, and it isn't much more expensive than a stock driveshaft.
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