pianoprodigy

If my check engine light isn't on, does that mean that my BAC and all the other codes listed on those links are ok? I've been reading this stuff for the last hour.

turboren

From page C-7, FSM for 89-91 cars:

Compression:
589 kPa (6.0 kg/cm^2, 85 psi) -- 250 rpm
Differential limit of chambers:
147 kPa (1.5 kg/cm^2, 21 psi) -- 250 rpm

The readings the factory compression tester displays are in KG/CM^2. Thus it makes PERFECT SENSE that the readings he received from the technician were mid 6's.

Not all technicians are idiots. Keep in mind that Mazda no longer has a tech school in the US for the rotary engine. They haven't had one since 1996. Therefore, it is only logical that there would not be many technicians experienced with anything other than compression diagnoses and engine and turbo replacements. Only a person who either attended the school, or owns and works on his/her own, would know to look for something else.

Yes, I used to work at a dealership. No, it wasn't a Mazda dealership.

Ren

turboren

The check engine light doesn't always come on when there's a code, and you don't always get a code when there's something wrong. Best just to check for codes, reset the computer, and check again. If you get the same codes coming up, it means you have a repeating problem that needs attention.

Ren

jimmyv13

I wonder if he fixed it.................

13bpower

Even if it was the engine you could buy a used engine for about $500 and get it installed for another $500. KEEP THE VERT! It will change your life in way you can't even imagine right now.

rx7_ragtop

p.s. General rule of thumb for RX-7s: DON'T GO TO THE DEALER FOR WORK. But buy your thermostats there.

Brad

Mulligan22

Since you are new to this car and especially rotaries, you WILL be having issues with the car from time to time. The first thing to do is don't panic. It's nothing that can't be solved. You'll learn plenty if you keep it. Get a shop manual to start with. Then get over your fears and give the car a shot to win you over. Overall they are great little beasts. In time it will become part of your life. I own a vert and enjoy the bugger a lot. After you get this sorted out, you'll want get that motor breathing better. A free flowing cat and cat back will unlock some of the potential. Just remember you are driving around with the most "exotic" motor on earth under your hood regardless of vehicle price. Not to shabby.

hugues

I don't think cleaning up the BAC will do much for you unless you have been driving in dust with no air filter for 6 months.

You can easily check if the BAC is working by unplugging it at idle. If rpm drops, you are good to go. If does not do anything, your idle speed may be set too high or the BAC (or ECU) could be at fault.

If the engine is weak (low compression numbers), it is possible it can not handle the extra load placed on the alt (more turning resistance). What you will see is a big drop in rpm and a slow comeback to normal idle speed (this actually tells you the BAC is working). Of course, the more electrical stuff you put, the bigger the drop. Kinda frustrating since the engine would run pretty decent otherwise.

Just to make sure, I would also have the charging system checked (battery + alt) at a place like autozone (it's free and it does not hurt). If the battery is near it's end, the alternator may be working extra hard to keep it charged and respond to electrical loads being put on (remember the more load on the alt, the more resistance to turning the pulley).

Hope this helps,
Hugues -