nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok I will list what I have done to the car and then my current problems and questions abou t upgrades.


I rebuilt the motor.(atkins kit 2mm apexseals ,solid corner seals)
Street ported the intake and race ported exhaust
3' open exhaust with racing beat downpipe and the racing beat fabricators 3' muffler
I have cleaned and tested all injectors 550cc primaries and denso 720 secondaries
I have eliminated the omp and run idmetsu premix 100:1
no bac(well inoperative) and no coolant lines to it
35mm ported wastegate
mbc to 10psi
Greddy E-Manage blue
plx wideband
Emissions removed
replaced intake tube with aluminium elbow
new radiator not aluminium
ACT hd clutch pressure plate and exedy street strip disc
oh yeah the car was nonturboSE , now with TII engine only swap.
Stock turbo
I have bf goodrich radial ta's 235/55/14's on rear and 225's on the front
Stock tmic(plan to get N-ter-cooler sprayer)
racing beat FCD
Think that is about it.


Ok so I got it running good. i have been driving it easy but fun. I got right at 1800 miles on it and went to the track. This is where it gets complicated. i had several runs all night lond the fastest rotary all night. 1/8 mile 9.2 sec and constant. managed to beat a 350z. Thought that was pretty cool. Then about 11:00 pm decided to do a last run. Got to the line , burned out , and the car died. Pushed it to the trailer and went home. Started trouble shooting it and found no tach bouncing on the dash. Started checking the ignition, and found no spark then got back in the car my self and saw the tach bouncing. So i turned on the fuel and it started. But ran like ***. I checked the plugs and they looked fouled. so i replaced them with colder plugs(my mistake) and it ran better. So i eased down the neighbor hood. It started running right. So I watched the afr gauge and saw it was leaning out in the upper rpm's. So i added more fuel, felt good and afr's were back to like 12's (low 12's). Then i felt it and heard it. A loud knocking noise. So i got back home and turned it off less than an 1/4 mile. I took off the front cover and saw lots of copper shavings. The torrington bearing closest to the stationery gear was gone/ in peices. Also the adjustment collar was kinda sticking to the shaft, and the flat race for the torrington bearing was discolored. i lightly pried out the stationary gear. The bearing is missing most the copper only left with outter insert. HMM
Okay my first question is how bad is the bearing problem? Can I just replace the bearing? The eshaft is slightly discolored but can't feel any scoring on it. I would replace the bearing and clean out the oil pan then cycle lots of oil in and out of the motor. Would that work? Or are chances against me and the rotor bearings and the rear stationary gear spun as well? hard decision. The motor still has good compression. No different than when it was freshly rebuilt(still higher)So with the info provided what are you guys opinions? Thanks

Second question.
What does the to4b compressor upgrade entail? I heard the whole housing and 60-1 hifi wheel? Or machine the stock compressor housing and upgrage the compressor wheel. And as far as the backing plate what if any machine work is required. Let me know thanks.

initial D is REAL!

I have a to4 intake side on my car, I went to the local turbo shop and they had backing plates, compressors wheels, and housings that bolted up. My to4 needed a lil grinding to clear the intake manifold. Mine costed me 160 bucks for the to4 intake parts, 30 balancing, 25 for clipping hte exhaust side. The 60-1 would fit the hitachi turbo, but you will need to find a way so it wont hit the intake manifold. I think bnr stage 3 is the to4 housing machined to fit the 60-1 wheel

As far as that front bearing, it doesnt sound too good, idd you make sure to torque the front ecentric shaft bolt properly to set the proper endplay? Here is the info http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

If you've spun a bering chances are there is other dammage. If nothing else, you have surely send metal shavings through your oil system, and chances are you'll need all new berings and probably a pump. Which brings up another point of why did the bering spin?? Is your oil pressure still ok?? Chances are your looking at a rebuild. If your luckey you might get away with only needing the berings/oil system parts and soft seals rather than all new hard seals too.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i have decided to rebuild and replace bearings and a soft seal kit.
SO, I want to bridge port or half bridge port. im pretty sure ditch the emanage blue and go megasquirt. Any thoughts on megasquirt and bridge port? Also I need a bigger turbo. HMM What is the best option for a turbo with bridge port or half bridge?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok took apart the motor and the bearings are all spun and oil pump and eshaft are trash!!! The cause was the oring in the front cover where it seals to the front housing. I ordered the orings at mazda and there were 2, 1 hard nylon and the other soft rubber. Seemed like it was a bad fit when I put them in, but did it anyway. One side pushed out and split.
Foutunatly rotor housings and side plates and rotors and seal are all ok. Im gonna get the soft seal kit, bridge port it, and new turbo setup and front mount intercooler and megasquirt it.
Any opinions in the build would be nice. Im gonna get a s5 rear plate I think it is a direct swap but need to find out. The irons are already street ported, I think that will still work with a bridge port. I did it with a racing beat template, does anyone know?
What is a good turbo choice garrett gt35? gt42??? to4z?HMM

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok just want a couple opinions real quick. What do yall think about holset h2d turbo , long runner tubular manifold with a bridge port??? Think decient spool?4k or so?? Possible small shot of nitrous to help spool?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok next big question is how will a bridgeport perform with the stock intake manifold? Will it be to restrictive for 450-500hp? Anyone know?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Update
I talked to atkins rotary and they swain i shound have no problem running a full bridge port. Also started bridgeporting my irons and got crazy on the center iron and grinded through the water jacket!!! Guess it takes learning to be be anygood. So I need another center iron.Sent out the front iron after porting it, to racing beat to be resurfaced. When i get those two parts backing my hands i can order the rebuild kit and drop in the motor and mount the turbo so i can have my buddy fab up my exhaust 3.5-4" all the way out!! And need to find some 4" mufflers. After i get that done start the megasquirt and fuel system. Ill update after i have made some more progress.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

GT4288 TURBO?Anyone used it before? I found a good deal on one.Anyone know where to find the specs on it? full bridgeport with a a gt4288? Sounds good Anyone have any replies? thanks

initial D is REAL!

Wow, I thoguht I replied to my own posts. Haha jk

Are you looking to just drag race? I remember people saying the 13bt block is good for 350ish hp on 91 octane. At the same time if you are planning on dragracing, getting traction is going to be the main problem

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Yeah kinda lonely in my thread. Oh well guess ill learn it all as i do it.lol
Yeah lots of drag racing. But want to be driveable on the street. Street"able" Drive to work (not far), and some back road crusing.And I think im only do a halfbridge port.
And yes traction? Any good recomendations? Kyb adjustables? and slicks? Where can you get stock height springs that are stiffer? Or should i just bite the bullet for now on the stock setup and save for the granny speed shop ford 8.8 rear end?

initial D is REAL!

What is your budget?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Dont know the budget ,getting everything i need as i have the money.
Where can i get 3.5" -4" exhaust tubing?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok rebuilt my motor Half bridge-port. The H2D is out(bent turbine shaft). And more than likely going to get a garrett gt4288. FMIC is fitted up 28x12x3.5 with 2.5" inlets and 3"ic piping. Put in the racing beat oil pan baffle. And going to drop in the motor asap after I clean up the engine bay and get rid of the ac stuff. No room left for it. Ill update again later.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Where can I get a compressor cover and wheel for a garrett turbo or what brand will interchange i searched but no luck? I was looking at like a to4s sized compressor housing.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Ok going with a holset hx52 turbo 16cm hot side from what I can tell. The motor is in, turbo is on the manifold after making an adapter to tilt it to clear the lim. But I have to move the water neck and make a custom radiator hose. I made an adapter for the stock throttle body to mate up to the 3" intercooler piping. Front mount IC is mounted. Waiting for oil lines to show up. And still waiting for a wastegate etc. I may have found a 44mm tial wastegate. Will that be enough for 30psi? Mabey I will run 2 of them later. And wondering if I can get the 500hp that I want with low boost (17-19psi). Anyways this is where I am at if any one else happens to care. LOL Oh well .

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Well I have the megasquirt II. Running dual vr circuits. Hks race gate, Ebay fd ss manifold , and need to build the downpipe 3.5". Modifed 1680cc injectors, 550cc primaries. Sard rising rate fpr, Cleaned fuel tank out, and replaced all rubber fuel hoses. Rebuilt my oil cooler hoses.and An old school hks bov. Need to do something about turbo feed line. Ill update later when its close to running and i can get pictures

hkp

iTrader: (2)

any updates?

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Car is alive and running. I put in 720cc injectors for primaries. A water meth kit with m15 nozzle. the megasquirt seems ok for now have not gotten to do lots of tuning but have driven it to work and down the street several times. 10psi by 4000 rpm and that not really getting on it. Im doing my own tuning till I can get to dyno.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

here are a couple pics

nu-rx7junkie

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Well cant get to driving until I get a new brake booster. Must have blown it out not using a check valve with it. Should have my jacobs old school ignition amplifier soon. And after that going to add a second walbro and y it in from the fuel tank then run it up to the fuel rails and y it to both rails then y back to the regulator.

ogmikeG

any updates ?did you get a new brake booster? PS love the volvo turbo

ogmikeG

more pics!

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Got a brake booster, here are more pics. And trying to figure why its not starting now.
Any ideas?
It cranks, has fuel pressure, but its erratic base pressure 60 and primes to 60 then drops to 20 when cranking and jumps back to 60 over and over. Changed fuel pump no difference, bypassed the fuel pump relay same results, Injectors are getting signal and click. Getting fire. Im running megasquirt II v3 board ms2extra code. Its was running fine then shut it off and went to get back in and leave and it just wont start up. I have plenty gas in it. Guess im goin to reload the ms2 settings and try again, if nothing im going to change out my brand new plugs with more new plugs.HHHHMMMM

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Well I got a haltech e6k and now selling the megasquirt. 10psi of boost seems to come on quick and puts you back in seats pretty hard. Open atmosphere wastegate sounds pretty cool. running good now going to start increasing boost a little bit.

Anyone want to talk timing? Racing beat half bridge on top of a racing beat street port and s4/s5 turbo block. And I have a AI kit to put to use. So should I be around 22-23 degrees at 5psi, 17degrees and 10psi, 12degrees at 15psi, 7 degrees at 20 psi and 4degrees up to 30psi?
And split timing?