I fabbed up the compressor tool with a air nozzle glued into a hole I drilled into some PCV pipe from Home Depot. I can hear my car hissing underneath the manifold, but still can't pin down where from. If you (or anyone on here) could figure out how to incorporate smoke into the system, I would love to know how. If it were simple, anybody could throw this gizmo together and vacuum leaks would be a thing of the past.

Any ideas on smokifying my vacuum leak tester?

B

 

^I am a bit ghetto so I thought a hookah would do the job well.
lol

 

For reference, here's a Intake Pressure Tester for the 3000 GT that I remembered was posted here a while ago. I thought it had smoke in it, but I guess I was mistaken.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

Smoke machines usually work by heating cooking oil, which would probably fill your intake tract with a bunch of oily residue. *Thinking...*

Ah ha! Dry ice!

http://chemistry.about.com/library/weekly/aa010603a.htm

Dry ice is just carbon dioxide, and even if it sucks the moisture out of the air, I don't think it would be harmful to anything in the intake tract.

So here's an idea to make a Intake Pressure Tester using Dry Ice. On the intake, build the pressure adapter as specificed in the first article, but instead of hooking it up directly to the air compressor, had some kind of container inbetween with the dry ice / hot water, and two fittings. Basically input and output. In from the air compressor, out to the intake tract.

I suppose you could use an old / cheap pressure cooker and put a few fittings in it, one from the air compressor and the other to the engine. Put some water in the pot, set it on a hot plate and let it warm up for a while, then drop in the dry ice then put the lid on.



Depending on how much pressure you need, you might not need a pressure source like an air compressor. Just the heated fog would be enough to fill the intake tract. Or maybe a little pressure like from a hand pump would work.

What do you guys think?

-T

 

If you're gonna use smoke you might as well use it the OTHER way and let it be sucked into the engine, rather than pumping it into your intake.

Also, you guys might want to consider using propane on a rubber hose to pinpoint exactly where applying flammable materials causes the idle to increase...

 

it's really REALLY easy to just pressurize the intake manifold and feel/listen around for leaks.
I'm almost 100% sure you've got a serious vacuum leak... LIM to block perhaps....

assuming you have no vacuum leaks,
was the TPS on your list there? If not it's my current prime suspect for this issue.

 

hahaha, guess I should've read the WHOLE thread first.


my vote is definatly the LIM gasket now! :P

I've seen cracked LIM's before, as well as a cracked ACV, so both of those are possible at least.

I will mail you a used EGR if you need one, hit me up on MSN and hit my paypal up with $5 to cover shipping.


I made a vacuum leak tester out of a spraypaint cap (fits PERFECTLY over the stock turbo, but verify with yours as there are different diameter cans out there)...

I drilled a hole in it and put a shrader valve out of a tire into it. Used epoxy to seal around it.

Hold it on the turbo with a hose clamp and you're good to go.

the stock TID can crack as well.... it's subject to lots of abuse as the engine can move but the AFM/airbox can't.

 

its because i am bad at drawing... but if you look at the teeth as the one closest to the big thingy...

j-rat, i thought when you said you couldnt do-check timing, by 'you didnt touch it at all'.....

 

this was my problem at one point.
not a small crack either

 

I used cigarette smoke, and I heard the same hissing under the manifold, but the smoke didn't work.

I could do that. I have seen it done before and I have a propane torch, but the results would probably be the same as with carb cleaner. Maybe I can pinpoint a little better with propane? Hmmm...


Actually, I had a cap and schrader valve already made for this type of thing. So I was using that and compressed air. Also, the TID has been inspected and its in perfect shape. I have an ACV block off plate ready to be installed. Just been to lazy to do it...

And for now, the EGR is blocked off.

Not sure where I said that, but sorry for the confusion. I actually re-stabbed the CAS. Its been my experience that once its stabbed its "GENERALLY" dead on, but its still recommended to verify once the engine is running. Verifying the timing is what I have not done, due to the inability of the car to idle under 1200.

We having fun yet?

 

****you have a fun weekend too! I will post results as they come, including the results of your suggestions!

Rat****************

Ah. Your no fun any more. I can't seem to **** you off. I'll work harder at it in the future.

1200 rpm. I had a BAC that acted funny once. I could unplug it and the rpms would stay down once that was done.

And or you could get tricky. Warm the engine up and put a timing light on it. Then have the driver put the brakes on and then slowly, slowly let the clutch part way out while YOU stand in front of the car with the timing light. Once the engine starts to bogg down below 1000 rpm or so you can take a gander at the timing and figure out which way to go. Be sure to stand in front of the car. Standing to the side is, well, for sissys. Go for it!

OR! Maybe you could remove the airfilter and block the airflow to the engine with *whatever* and cause the rpms to drop below 1000 rpm while simutaniously you look with a timing light at the timing marks. YEAH!

i WON'T QUESTION WHETHER OR NOT YOU MADE SURE THE THROTTLE PLATES ARE FULLY CLOSED. You did that. Sorry about the caps, I was talking to someone while typing. Big deal.

 

Hailers,

I can bring the idle down below 1000, but the car will cease to run. The only way to get the car to idle is to open the throttle plates up using the adjustment on the cable. Anything below 1200 RPM and it just dies.

Rat

 

i am fairly sure the dynamic chamber is going to resonate the air going around the throttle plates and cause a natural "hiss" under the UIM but eh... just a guess as everyone who seems to do this test swears they have a leak under the UIM while it is common i can't picture every car having the same leak.

get a heavy mixture of soapy water and put it in a spray bottle and spray under there while it is pressurized to see if you can spot where it is leaking from.

i'll get those injectors out today, i didn't have a chance to check them yesterday.

 

Its cool, I am about done removing the LIM(and I have been milking it pretty heavily). You were right, once you get the ACV out, working around the ABS is a snap!

 

For the LIM theorists.. A pic!

Looks like about a quarter of an inch of gasket was completely missing. Gotta say, I am glad to see that!

Rat

 

Buyah...

Looking at the degradation of the LIM gasket top edge, the whole thing is falling apart.
Boosted motors put more stress on those gaskets, cause there is constant push / pull due to vacuum and boost through the intake manifolds.

Congrads with the problem solving!


-Ted

 

nipples? fix it rat?

 

ITs not fixed, the water o-rings didnt come in yesterday. Should be here today.

 

hey Jrat im haveing the same problem now....exact as yours was.... when you sprayed the carb cleaner around that area did it raise the rpms??

 

Does that mean you have to go to the post office?

 

yes it did!

 

Your stuff is already in the mail!!!

 

the funny thing is, you knew what was wrong by like page 3 of this thread...

 

 

I didnt really know, I suspected. I didnt know for sure what was up until I saw the gasket last night. But there are references to the LIM starting at about page 3 you are correct about that!

 

yeah i just had to fix mine there was no orings in it was leaking coolant like a bitch and my my gastket was cracked to but it wasnt giving me any porblems like yours i was just lucky that i had already had the turbo off