My rebuild "blog"
07-25-05, 06:47 AM
#51
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To me, they are normal and usable.
The groove on the rotor housings are from the triangle assist piece; it's normal.
Although it might look damaged, it's not that big a deal...unless you're building a race motor and need that last 1% of compression / power.
Just make sure you keep the groove on the correct side so the new triangle assist piece will ride in the same groove.
Good luck!
-Ted
The groove on the rotor housings are from the triangle assist piece; it's normal.
Although it might look damaged, it's not that big a deal...unless you're building a race motor and need that last 1% of compression / power.
Just make sure you keep the groove on the correct side so the new triangle assist piece will ride in the same groove.
Good luck!
-Ted
07-28-05, 11:25 AM
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Thought I'd update my little story here...
The "new" engine is currently on the engine stand, being prepped. I've stripped it to the keg and cleaned it all up. It's all nice and shiny new-looking now
I'm just sending out the injectors for cleaning, and orderd a few hundred worth of new parts from Mazda. Stuff like gaskets, fuel and coolant hoses, and a bunch of other "maintenance" type items. I'm also going to order some silicone hose and do all the vacuum hoses.
The keg seems to be in good shape, but I found many vacuum and coolant hoses that were on the brink of failure! It's a good thing that I have a spare of every part and most of the items from my old engine are in much better shape then on the 'new' engine. For example, the CAS was missing the little plug from the top, and water had obviously made it's way to the internals, so I swapped that out with my 'old' one (which is actually newer as the old car was a '90 and mine's a '91). Oddly enough, when I lined up the pulley to the yellow mark and pulled old the old CAS, the marks on the gear and body were NOT aligned?! That is beyond weird, isn't it? It's possible that it was pulled for some reason while the engine was being removed from the other car, or perhaps the guy swapped the original with this crappy one. Who know for sure. Looking into the exhaust ports, there seems to be a whole lot of carbon buildup on the rotors, so maybe the previous owner was running super-rich for reasons I can't begin to fathom. I've squirted a little ATF into the chambers and I expect most of that will get blown out shortly after intitial startup.
I've also picked up an exhaust header and a hi-flow cat, but I'm betting that with my Dynomax exhaust being as loud as it is already, the header will have to go!
At this point, I'm expecting that car will be back on the road by next weekend. I can't wait, but I'm taking the time to do it right.
The "new" engine is currently on the engine stand, being prepped. I've stripped it to the keg and cleaned it all up. It's all nice and shiny new-looking now
I'm just sending out the injectors for cleaning, and orderd a few hundred worth of new parts from Mazda. Stuff like gaskets, fuel and coolant hoses, and a bunch of other "maintenance" type items. I'm also going to order some silicone hose and do all the vacuum hoses.The keg seems to be in good shape, but I found many vacuum and coolant hoses that were on the brink of failure! It's a good thing that I have a spare of every part and most of the items from my old engine are in much better shape then on the 'new' engine. For example, the CAS was missing the little plug from the top, and water had obviously made it's way to the internals, so I swapped that out with my 'old' one (which is actually newer as the old car was a '90 and mine's a '91). Oddly enough, when I lined up the pulley to the yellow mark and pulled old the old CAS, the marks on the gear and body were NOT aligned?! That is beyond weird, isn't it? It's possible that it was pulled for some reason while the engine was being removed from the other car, or perhaps the guy swapped the original with this crappy one. Who know for sure. Looking into the exhaust ports, there seems to be a whole lot of carbon buildup on the rotors, so maybe the previous owner was running super-rich for reasons I can't begin to fathom. I've squirted a little ATF into the chambers and I expect most of that will get blown out shortly after intitial startup.
I've also picked up an exhaust header and a hi-flow cat, but I'm betting that with my Dynomax exhaust being as loud as it is already, the header will have to go!
At this point, I'm expecting that car will be back on the road by next weekend. I can't wait, but I'm taking the time to do it right.
Last edited by johnnyg; 07-28-05 at 11:31 AM.
08-23-05, 08:12 PM
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Wow, I can't believe it took me nearly a month to get to this point, but...
....SHE'S ALIVE!!
Freaked me out at first, though. I double checked everything, hooked up the battery, turned the key for the first time in 8 months...she made a clunk noise and everything just went dead! Dead, dead, dead! Turned out it was just my 'temporary' battery connection though. I removed the terminals, put them on properly, tightened them up, then twist the key again. It turned over for maybe 5 seconds, then VROOM!
I had to go spoil it all though by leaving the rad cap off too long! Oh well...nothing something more coolant won't fix.
With the coolant erruption, I called it a night, so I still haven't driven the car in 8 months, but that itch will be scratched tomorrow
....SHE'S ALIVE!!
Freaked me out at first, though. I double checked everything, hooked up the battery, turned the key for the first time in 8 months...she made a clunk noise and everything just went dead! Dead, dead, dead! Turned out it was just my 'temporary' battery connection though. I removed the terminals, put them on properly, tightened them up, then twist the key again. It turned over for maybe 5 seconds, then VROOM!
I had to go spoil it all though by leaving the rad cap off too long! Oh well...nothing something more coolant won't fix.
With the coolant erruption, I called it a night, so I still haven't driven the car in 8 months, but that itch will be scratched tomorrow
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