ponykiller

Thanks for the good words guys (except pengarufoo. Perhaps tell me why you think that?).

The newest problem with this car is that I cannot bleed the brake system. What is happening is that I can completely remove the bleeder screw, but no fluid comes out!? Any suggestions? There is not even any air coming out of the nipple when I loosen it.


thanks,
Kris

ponykiller

I am sorry, but I have no idea what you are asking.

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Sweet car man I think it looks great!

biohzrd

a line lock to put it simply.... locks up your brakes. usually your fronts but i've seen them on some fwd cars aswell. it allows you to do a burn out to heat your tires w/o eating up your brakes and putting undo strain on the drivetrain

ponykiller

cool, thanks for the info on that biohzrd.

The answer is no. No I line lock on my car - but it would be nice to have some functioning brakes. Anyone have suggestions on what the problem is? See above for the brake problem symptoms.

Bambam7

Looks great.. but just wondering one thing- Why stay with that top mount iC and not go for a front mount?? You can even do a DIY for damn cheap!

xxpezzxx

may i ask where you got your guage pods?

Bambam7

Looks like an aftermarket FPR?? On the drivers side of the engine, behind the battery, just inside of the fuse block...

ponykiller

Yes, it is an aeromotive rising rate fuel pressure regulator. My local dragstrip requires that FPRs cannot be located on the firewall, so I mounted it on the shock tower. I also wanted it there so that I did not have to hear it (it can be quite noisy when mounted on the firewall).

I am sticking with the stock topmount IC for now because I am going to be running my air filter in the front bumper. That alone will drop intake temps 20 degrees. I also have an aquamist system 2C that I am going to install after I make a few dyno runs and see how my intake temps act. I want to have before/after dyno runs with the stock top mount IC with and without the water injection. That way, I can prove to all you non-believers that water injection is the way to go!

ponykiller

10

ponykiller

11

ponykiller

12

ponykiller

13

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

I like it, are you going to run alot of boost with the topmount? or do you plan on going frontmount?

KiyoKix

Nice looking car, congrats on getting her running!

skyypilot

Powdercoat is Polyester powder melted on parts at about 400 degrees F. If it gets hotter than that, it should be melting right off. I wonder how they do it?

ponykiller

on the street ~13psi.

at the track ~17psi.

I realize I am pushing the limits of the stock top mount IC, but I am gonna be installing my aquamist system 2C after I get a couple of dyno runs in. I want to get before/after dyno runs with the water injection kit.

If the water injection works as well as I want it to, I will stick with the TMIC, but if not then I will be investing in a FMIC.

ponykiller

pic of the AE in my garage.

ponykiller

another in the garage

Zach McAfee

It's probably due to a chemical reaction when the powder melts initially that makes the bonds stronger. Any chemies in here?

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Not quite sure where this is coming from.

Aside from many loose wires on the drivers side of the bay, which I'm sure will be loomed together and wrapped, the install looks fairly clean and decent.

Not like he said its 100% complete.

Anyways, not going to be baited too much...

karlcroak

powder coating is sprayed on with a magnetic charge then baked on ...( i just watched it on american choppers)

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

Ok, powdercoating info.

For 2 years, I ran a powdercoating shop, so I have something to add here.
First of all, the powder is sprayed on with an electric charge (not magnetic, as it then wouldn't stick to aluminum). Each piece is individually grounded, and the powder is positively charged. The pieces are then baked for about 30 mins at about 430 degrees. (This varies for different types of powder and metals).

Not all powder is polyester. There are poly's, hybrids and more. There are powder's that are suitable for indoor use only, and those that are exterior grade. The exterior paint is more durable to UV as well as the "salt spray" tests. Now, once the powder has been baked, it then cures and hardens. Once it cures, it can withstand higher temps than 400 degrees - but prolonged exposure will cause the colour to dull a bit. It would have to get REALLY hot for it to actually burn.

There are also high heat powdwers that are available. There are the kind that you see on BBQ's. (red, green, etc.) While they do get baked at a temp higher than 430 degrees, it isn't that much higher. The difference is that once they cure, they can withstand MUCH higher temps.


Anyway, I do have a question though. It seems that you cut out a good chunk of metal in the front - any negative effects?

ponykiller

Actually, the car was wrecked (not by me!) and to salvage it some of the front end had to 'modified' a little - mostly because it was too messed up to fix easily at the time. I have a Howe radiator that I am waiting to install and when I do that, I am going to have a metal brace welded in place in front of the radiator by a machine shop.

And yes, all the wires and vaccuum lines are still in their 'test fit' locations. Once I decide that I do not need to pull apart the UIM to track down any loose connections or vaccuum leaks, I am going to bundle all the wires up so that they are much neater. It just does not make any sense to me to get the car all cleaned up, incase I need to go pulling it apart again in a week or two to fix a minor problem.