I will be painting the Engine Bay, Wheel Wells, Door Jams & everything in the general area with POR-15 paint and products hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

I will be buying:
1 Gallon of Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and POR-Strip
1 Pint Each of POR-15 and BLACKCOTE (1 pint is said to cover 24Sq Ft with 2 coats)
Latex Gloves, Paint Brushes, Scrapers, Wool Steel, & 220 Grit SP.

Am i missing anything? any suggestions?

Will be posting Before, During, & After pictures later!

 

I'd recommend getting a cheapo 4.5" grinder and a wire wheel... it will make that whole job go so so much quicker... and after having a 4.5" grinder you will find all sort of uses for it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...104&pricetype=

POR15 is good stuff, I just love their products.

 

bronze wool or scothbrite pads instead of steel wool, small pieces of the steel wool pad will come apart and they in itself will rust.

are these areas already rusted that your putting por15 and not just regular paint on them?
The jambs are usually in good shape, some compound and a little elbow grease will get them to come up pretty good, the outcome will look better then a brushed coating.

 

Anything that you por15 that is exposed to sunlight will require a topcoat. Ask me how I know.

 

That is what the Blackcoat is for... it is a top coat that goes over the POR15. IF you have a black car that will blend in nicely... if the car is any other color I would put the body color over the POR15.

 

if the car is black all the more chance of the jambs and underhood being able to be cleaned and left alone, my jambs and underhood are original. Some degreaser, a little compound and polish and they look great. You can even put a light coat of dressing to shine them up also.

 

the car is still in great shape, no rust! The body of the car is originally silver and will be painted black soon. i figured id do the jambs for the hell of it since i will have left over paint from doing the weel wells, engine bay etc. POR-15 is a self leveling paint so there will hopefully be no brush marks! thanks for the tip i will definitely get bronze wool or sotchbrite pads.

-Sean

 

Why?

Yeeaaaaahh, no. That's really not a good way to strip paint.

If there's no rust, than leave it alone! Wirewheeling especially is a bad idea but taking any area's that are prone to rust and taking them down to bare steel is asking for WAY more problems than you have. Nothing is better at preventing rust than the factory e-coat. <- That's a period - meaning that statement is complete and not subject to debate.

As for the jambs, I wouldn't use anything but an AUTOMOTIVE primer. You're painting an auto, why use anything else? If you don't know what you're doing when it comes to paint, don't do anything. Let a pro deal with it all.

 

A wire wheel isn't the best for stripping paint, but it is good for removing loose undercoating and larger gunk, scotchbrite is much better for actual stripping. Either way a power tool is going to do a much better job than trying to remove everything by hand.

 

Actually a power tool wont do a better job it will do a faster job. using non corrosive paint stripper and sand paper is definitely better

 

You obviously haven't been around/painted cars in the past.

I used scotchbrite on my engine bay after I cleaned it, pressure washed it, degreased/dewaxed it. Then I hooked up the little air comp powered pressure washer, put the siphon end in a gallon of 50/50 diluted Simple Green and went to town with the scotchbrite. Then I degreased again and painted.

If your goal is to hog off as much paint as possible and you don't car about removing all the factory e-coat, then by all means - get the some 80g on a 9" disc and have fun.

If you're smart, and you can, and you want to save the e-coat, a DA with some 220 - 400 and then block the rest down is a good way to go.

Perhaps Classic-Auto can chime in here as we all know he is a pro and I don't know anything because my car is still on jack-stands

 

Thanks for the info, this helps alot!!!

 

There must be only one way to do thing right.... up here in the Rusty part of the world must mess up how you think about things....

 

if the jambs are clean the last thing you want to do is strip the paint.
Scuff it and clean it, and dare I say- use spray cans instead of a brush on coating.
No self leveling brush on paint will come out like spraying, and being that the jambs are not a large area they wont come out all that bad if you spray can them.

I would suggest though you let the guy painting the car paint the jambs, if you take the car apart and you scuff the jambs you might actually save him some time over masking the jambs when he sprays it.

 

i did the por 15 whole process under the hood of my t2 and it came out very good. i did the 3 step process but in the end still have some brush streaks, i also painted it in mid 30 degree weather though. i would wait till next week when the temps are warming back into the 50's in stafford, makes everything so much easier instead od freezing your *** off and waiting 3-4 days to dry

 

for the original poster doing the por under the hood is a good way of changing the color without taking the motor out, but for the jambs- let the shop spray them or spray can them yourself.