BklynRX7

hey i had a great idea last night. i was sitting in my fathers car waiting for ti to warm up, I usually raise the idle with my foot till like 2500 on cold days to speed the warming process whiel the normal idle is 1g and the cold idle is 1.5g . I was thinkign to myself "I wish there was a switch or sumtin so i didnt have to hold my foot here for 20 minutes" I when i got home i got to work on a idle switch.

I ended up using a gear shifter form a mountain bike that allows me to change an stick the throttle at set intervals, now im working on getting the controller inside the car. Shouldnt be hard, just didnt have time. What do you guys think?

I will most likely mount it on the useless fake **** under my hazards so it doesnt get in the way and i can remove it when its no longer needed or i come to the full realization that its ugly as hell.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Some of the old carb choke ***** had a pull and turn feature. You pull the choke out to the ilde you want and turn the ****. That locks the choke. When you reach operating temp, you simply turn the **** the other way and the throttle return spring pulls the choke **** back in.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

You'll also want to make special care to do it properly so that there's NO way of anything sticking or getting caught to hold the throttle open.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Yea exactly.

I'd use a selenoid switch if I were you, with a steel bar that is pulled by it. Mount the device the TB and have it so that it pulls on the throttle, not the cable but mount it with a custom linkage. Have it so that when the selenoid is on, it only pulls the throttle a few degrees, giving you that non-stall 1000rpm idle that cannot be achieve on a cold day with the TB mod on your car. WIth the flick of a switch you can just leave the car alone, and let it warm up.

You could find a selenoid that uses the same voltage or something as to the seven, ground it to the frame and run the + lead to the dash with a switch, then from the switch to a hot wire on the harness or something.

Thats how I'd plan to do it, make it a real nice job

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i had kind of a similar thought but mine used the speed control servo and a stopper for the actuator to set the idle speed.

NZConvertible

What the hell would you do that for? If you want to warm the engine up quicker, drive it. Start it up, wait for the oil pressure to stabilise, then just drive it. Keep the revs below 3000rpm and drive gently under it reaches full temp. Waiting 10 minutes is overkill, 20 is just plain nuts.

Don't forget that even if you leave the engine idling until it''s fully warm, the oil in the gearbox and diff is still stone cold, so you can't just drive it hard straight away. If you have any mechanical sympathy you'll let them warm up too before giving it a hard time. This is another reason why waiting ages for the engine to warm up is pretty pointless.

Gregs

^ i agree 100 percent NZ

CHINOOO

I can't wait till the cold is over. It is very cold out here in New York! What I do is try to warm up the car at least every 10 hours.

Icemark

Ah man 2500 RPM at 20 minutes when just started is abuse. You should have your child taken away.

Hell even the factory says more than 30 seconds above 1500 when starting is just wrong by the way they designed the AWS system.

If you really want something to warm your car, put a remote start that has a neutral safety on it (like the DEI ones), on your car. The factory idle for warm up is more than sufficent to have the car completely warm in less than 12 minutes.

But some lame mechanical hold for 2500 RPM??? that is just scary stupied.
edit< heck the idea that you are holding the RPMs at 2500 when just starting is also just scary stupied. man no wonder so many people blow motors

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Also considering that this system already is installed in the car by the factory. That's what the thermowax and AWS assembly is....

SureShot

The easy way to hold fast idle is to add a switch to ground the AWS solenoid signal.

I pulled all my emissions stuff & did the TB mod last year, so I have to blip the throttle for 20 seconds on cold mornings.
After 2 miles it's ready to play.

The turbo loves the cold morning air.
My biggest cold morning problem is TRACTION.

Syonyk

I'd just use one of the solenoids in the engine bay. I'm planning to do that on mine, once I get around to modding the throttle body. Basically a "high idle" switch (similar to what busses use).

On a completely unrelated note, I'm planning to do something similar on my Subaru parts hauler, because it doesn't provide enough juice at idle to jumpstart other cars, and the fact that it has 3 pedals seems to confuse some people. A 2000 RPM "ultra idle" would be perfect for jumpstarting cars without having to explain that the right pedal is the gas, and by "rev the engine" I mean to hold it at a high RPM, not just blip it once (I've had to do this before).

-=Russ=-

ra ra rotory

Yeah man, your idea had heart, but isnt very practical. Its more suited for an old truck or something like that.. Hmm, I should do something like that on my Toyota pickup, the weber it has doesnt have a choke... And I wouldent use the bike thing you descriped, Just go to a junk yard and rip one out of a 1st gen, they have a pull **** for the choke

But on another note, my S5 N/A revs to 3k at start up, hold there for 15 seconds, than drops to 1.5k untill warmed up. So weither or not your mod is abuse to the car.. I dont know.