a fluid and a liquid are two different things. and some liquids compress more than others, but the point is water doent compress much. and my understanding is if theres too much water the engine would react the same as with too much boost (I mean too much boost and not too lean), so while it could break, it wouldnt hydro lock.

 

man, you best get back to your fluids book. You assume air to be a fluid for the sake of solving those problems.


Key thing to remember here is that air is compressible and water is nearly INCOMPRESSIBLE. Air also likes to expand to the size of the container it's in. When was the last time you saw water jump up out of a river and try and combine with its surroundings. Hence if you inject too much water you do run the risk of hydrolocking the motor. Don't know exactly how it will effect a rotary, but I would assume it'd be similar to a piston engine. Motor go stoppie.

Remind me not to go to your school for my masters.

 

If a rotary can be hydrolocked, it would take a shitload of water to do it. I doubt the "Cool Blast' Is putting out enough water to worry.

And I wouldn't fill that thing with alcohol unless you want to roast a pig in your engine bay... at least fix the leak in the line first...

 

Really? I could have sworn I knew people how worked on air heating/cooling for a living. If it isn't based on the compressibilty of air (which it is) then how does it work?

 

I have no leak, why would pigs roast in my engine bay, you think alcohol will catch inside my manifold, doubt it.

Even if it did become hydrolocked all you would have to do is take out the spark plugs and put something in there to take out the water (chemical or mechanical).

 

Rust specifically refers to iron oxide, an oxidized form of Iron.

Aluminum does oxidize, yes, similar to how iron does. It is the dull, white, flaky stuff on your intake manifolds.

However, you can actually force aluminum to oxidize, and then seal the oxidation via heat, making a surface much more resitant to aluminum "rusting". This process using an electrolysis set up, and is known as anodizing. You can actually dye anodized aluminum any colour before sealing it.

"Maglites" are anodized aluminum, as an example, as are many aluminum car pulleys.

My brake calipers are anodized, as another example.

 

Aluminum forms a thin layer of aluminum oxide very rapidly after being exposed to air, then rusts very very very slow adding to that layer. Anodizing forms a thick layer or Al2O3

 

air condition works as such. You have the compressor (increases air pressure ) that gets the working fluid R12 or 134a to a much higher temp and pressure. This is where the condensor comes it. It is the radiator for the AC. It then goes through an expansion valve (throttling process and pressure drop) and brings the temp down some more. It then flows through your evaporator where the cold air is transfered to the cabin. Basicly, you can only get it so cold and that depends on the outside temp..or in other words, the heat transfer from the fluid to the ambient air. If it's already hot out, it can't remove all that much heat. Ever notice why the ac works better at highway speeds? Anymore brain busters.

 

If the motor did hydrolock, it'd be very very hard on the motor/trans. It would pretty much instantly stop. Might not break anything...but it could. In a pistion engine you'd probably bend the push rods from the cam trying to open the valves with a bunch of compresses water stuck in the cylinder. Spend the money and do it the right way. Get the kit that is made for this purpose. 300.00 is not really worth destroying your motor. just my .02

 

Finally someone who agrees that air conditioning involves compressing air Thank you. I feel better now, lol.

Mike

 

Now... what about hooking up your AC vents to your Intake? humm has anyone done this?

Also i thought that the water injection sprayed a mist unto your intercooler..

last thing anyone have an idea on how much it cost to anodize alluminium?

 

The parasitic drag of your a/c pump would kill any gains from the cooler air.

Water injection sprays into your intake air charge.

Anodizing... kinda tough to find around. I am the only one around here that does it, and I haven;t seen anyone else online.
What do you need done?

 

No aluminum does not rust...it oxodizes...rust has to do with steel and iron products.

 

Rust eats away the metal where the oxidation on aluminum builds up on top.

 

If you replaced the water with rubbing alcohol like you said you wanted, you might gain a few extra HP. because the rubbing alcohol eveporates faster than the water. this would make the charge cooler. but it is combustable, this could be tricky at best to control. if we were to give it an octane rating I would say well below pump grade on a good day. this could lead to detonation, and then death to the rotary.

 

has anyone heard of injecting water into the exhaust??

http://www.factorydirectperformance.com/inject.htm

 

ya, i thought about getting the RIVA YAMAHA w.i.s. for my ski once....

 

Well kinda.... it is from the phase change of the refrigerant (which is from its compression).

Aaron