Yes, there is a difference between having money and having money to spend on your car. All responsible people have a budget of some type.

Rotors - I don't think it really matters much. You don't need to get the motor rebalanced if you use the stock rotors, but S5 and later rotors are lighter. Your choice.
Mallory ignition - Why not use stock and save a few hundred dollars?
E-Fan - Install along with the new radiator
Compressor upgrade - Upgrade your fuel system first!
Ported/S5 manifolds - You mean intake manifolds? I am confused on this one.

Fuel mods and power produced will depend a lot on what kind of turbo you choose. See the BNR website for hybrid power estimates:
http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm
RETed's website is also a good reference for staged upgrades:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

Not gonna happen whatever you do. You can reduce errors by planning like this, but you will never do it right the first time. You may as well accept this fact of hotrodding now so that you do not beat yourself up for making all of the mistakes that you will surely make. Approximately 15% of the money I have in my car is the result of mistakes or changing my mind.

Also, as far as wanting to "do it right", it is sometimes not worth it to spend hundreds or thousands of extra dollars just to gain a couple of horsepower on a street car.

Bah, you will want to rebuild it first then. Oh well, you can add the Microtech next.

 

Ok how about this lol... I want to make 300-320whp with good throttle response but keep stock manifolds (or upgrade to S5 or port them). I am rebuilding and i am installing the microtec as per everyone's advice. What should i do along with those things that are necessary?? I already have FMIC, intak, exhaust, and 720cc secondaries. I am turning mu build over to you guys LOL.

 

Talk to Tom over @ 7'sOnly Racing. He knows how to get turbo sized flywheels that accept the 5.5" clutch. I was going to go this route with the 6-spd, but, the twin that I have is also the same part number for the TII as it is for the renni. I would consider it when I need to replace the Exedy

pfffft - haahahaahaa. Advertising can bend space/time no?


Well, in the lower rpm ranges the larger turbo is acting as a plug in the exhaust.


1) You don't need a big streetport to make those power numbers. Bigger intake ports only hurt driveability. You should stick with the smallest ports to make the biggest power that you want. In your case, this is stock. Maybe slight porting to increase flow by smoothing the ports. That's really about it.

2) Don't bother. Stock ignition or even better, if the meecrotech can do it, 4 LSX coils

3) I would, save time later

4) Not necessary unless you're doing an HMIC/VMIC. Huge debat, not getting involved

5) Yes. I would look at dual oil coolers too especially if you're doing a FMIC. Something along the pure genius that TitaniumTT known for - https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-dual-mocal-oil-cooler-setup-805442/

6) I would still say look for a hybrid turbo. Talk to Bryan @ BNR turbo's

7) Talk to Bryan @ BNR turbo's. Generally porting/taking away material from a manifold that likes to crack isn't always the greatest idea.

13PSI on what turbo?

15% is probably a good estimate. I think the more involved/unique the project is, the higher that number will go. For me anyway, it was more time than cost which alot of people (myself included) view as the same. I have MANY parts that I built, didn't like, scrapped, and started over with.

Don't port anything, more finese the intake ports, maybe go a little larger on the exhaust but nothing agressive or large. Go with a hybrid turbo and give some thought to the rtek as well.

 

Ok so less aggressive on the ports.. Someone be specific as possible to me as i will be relaying this change of plans to my mechanic. I have always liked the BNR turbo's so this sounds like a great idea. As far as Rtek i am going stanalone and not wasting my money. I want 400+ WHP eventually and do not want to have to bother with installing the microtec after the fact.. So how about fuel?? What are all of the fuel mods i should go with for this amount of power?

 

Ok so someone explain to me the pro's and con's to having a mild streetport and a big one... I read about alot of people having big streetports.

 

Mate do a search... 1000's of posts on porting.

As for porting, Id only be recommending it in your case if you have to rebuild your engine.
Otherwise stock ports will get you over your current HP requirements.

 

The engine is being rebuilt as state earlier.. My goal is 315-350whp on a hybrid turbo and then eventually 400+ on a big turbo when i am finished.

 

For the second time - you should go with the smallest port that will allow you to get to your goals. In your case this would be a finessing of the stock ports. Maybe opening up the exhaust a bit more.

The larger the port, the worse the street manners.

 

I know.. I heard you the first time and I believe you.. I just want to get more opinions and technical explanations. So i guess let me put it this way (and i searched already there are alot of threads but not what i am looking for) what do i need to make more than 400WHP? (not now but eventually) Again.. pros and cons for mild vs aggressive... And i need recommendations for fuel in the 315whp to 350whp range please

 

J-Rat is making over 500 hp on stock ports
Plently of FD guys are making near 400RWHP on stock ports and "stock" turbos
The SMP Falken FD Block made 485 RWHP on a "med" port with a GT35R
The SMP Renni made 501 RWHP with some finessed stock ports, can't remember the turbo
BNR stage 3 is good for about 360RWHP and the Stage 4 made >400 with a "med" port
I plan to see 425+ with BNR Stage 3's and a "med" port.

The guy tuning the car has more say on the power than the turbo.

This is why people are telling you to rock an RTek and a BNR. Bolt on and plug in. Think about the cost between ~320-350 RWHP (BNR & Rtek can be done for about a grand) and eclipsing the 400 RWHP mark with some of the things that people are suggesting

GT35R - $1300
GOOD turbo manifold - $1000
Wastegate - $300
Cutstom Exhaust - I spent ~$500 and built it myself
Meecrotech and all sensors - Prob ~$2,000 when you're done
Tuning the damn thing - ?? but alot more than an Rtek

$4,000+ for an addition 50 hp. Is it worth it? Depends on what you want out of the car and what your wallet can handle. Driving around in my buddies hybrid/Rtek makes me wonder why people spend all this money on streetcars. If you're racing it, that's one thing, if you're like me, that's an entirely different set of problems.

I mentioned earlier that my 750/1000 combo should be good for roughly 400+ RWHP. Try to keep the injectors as close in size as possibly to reduce the chance of transition tuning issues. I also dropped my motor off with Tim Marren so he could build me some rails so I'd have unlimited injector selection. I'm not 100% sure on what's available as drop in injector replacements for the TII rails. Personally I think 550/1600 would be a difficult to tune smoothly but plenty have done it

 

Well i decided to go with a BNR stage2 as suggested by Bryan because the power band is much better and says i can see 340 to 350 with good tuning. Also decided on 720 primaries and 1000 secondaries with a Bosch fuel pump. Microtec LT10 is going in with the motor as well. As for the ports i told my mechanic to do 3/16 or a smidge bigger for the exhaust ports.. Does all this sound feasible and like a good build? With good tuning will i see those power numbers? Last thing i want to do is kid myself lol