Parastie

And it must last until March when i have the money to replace it. I need advise on keep this thing going.

Right now the compression on both rotors is faily low, below 80, it's leaking oil and apperently coolant. It's not smoking (surprisingly) but the coolant level keeps droping.

I'm considering dumping some Stop-Leak into the coolan and oil, anyone have luck with this stuff?

dorifc3s

im pretty sure my side seals r going out judgint by the amount of smoke it bellows when i rev hard.

gerbraldy

I wouldn't drop that stuff in there. You don't wanna **** it up more than it already is. I'd imagine something is going out if it smokes, I'd be ready for a rebuild in the future.

Parastie

It doesn't smoke, and the engine is going to be replace in March, i just need it to last that long. Ignore the thread jacker below my post!

MAX-IMAL

Do u premix?

Parastie

Yes

MAX-IMAL

if its not smoking then your coolant seals are fine, have you looked for a leak?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

thread jacker's suck..


try the sealing method posted on Kevin's site if you want to try to keep it alive for a short while longer.

ddub

Keep revs low, run a tad extra premix (our cars seem to run better/smoother with a little richer, but not too rich, premix mixture) and do the water trick. The water trick will basically clean the inside of your engine and dislodge some of the built up carbon inside. Hopefully this will clean it enough to get your engine a little healthier until March.

As for the leaks, you say there is no smoke? And you're not accumulating any puddles under your car (ie you know it's leaking out of a hose or something not burning)? Coolant might be the heater core or something like that if it's not burning and you can't see a leak, so take off the door sill/scuff plate things and lift up the carpet a bit and see if there is any coolant under there. If there is you need a new heater core and might've found your coolant problem.

As for oil, how much oil are you losing? Does it go down significantly fast?

Try not to use stop-a-leak because stuff like that will just make the rebuild harder.

Tofuball

I would do the stop leak, since you are going to crack the engine open anyway. It's not like you cant remove that gook once the engine is open. (But only if you are sure it is a coolant seal, check for coolant leaks, and the weep hole under your water pump first)

Parastie

Not yet, i haven't had time. I just noticed it today. It wasn't extremely low, just the overflow tank was empty.

MAX-IMAL

I used to have tha problem, It came up to a coolant hose, you need to look for the leaks and fix em, your engine is probably fine.

Parastie

The oil leak is significantly visible. It's leaking from the front seal and I cannot get the front bolt off not matter what i try. I just spray the oil off about once a week and add more oil.

I think the leek is probably from the heater core, and it's not extremely noticeable.
I will try the water trick this weekend.

I assure you, the engine is on its last leg. It has more miles then the body does and was originally going to be a quick fix until i got something better.

The engine itself is going to be torn down and parted out (except probably the rotors) and a T2 engine will put in its place, so i'm not really worried about a rebuild.

SJ_chameleon

Hey man, let me look at that bolt that you cant get off. Me and my friends have some experience taking out bastard bolts. You know how to get a hold of me. Just tell me if you need some help It would suck to not have you at the next meet.

Parastie

I'll give you a call this weekend, and don't worry about the meets. I'll be there, i just might be able to drive my car on the runs. It's losing power every day.

ddub

If it's the front seal that's an easy fix if you want to do it before the rebuild. DO NOT TAKE THE E-SHAFT BOLT OFF WITH THE MOTOR IN THE CAR... unless you have someone holding the clutch IN the entire time. Otherwise you can really eff stuff up.

Find someone that can pull the motor for you, or yourself, put it on a stand, pull the front e-shaft bolt off with an air impact wrench, pull the front cover, replace the front main seal (like 5 bucks), and put it back together torquing the front bolt to spec, then put the engine back in. If that is your only oil leak that'll hold you fine until the rebuild, or it should, unless something else is wrong. Front main seal is a cheap easy fix as long as you have the tools and the time to pull the motor. But like I said if you're going to do this with the engine in the car, have someone holding the clutch in the entire time.