Which Blue/yellow? There are only about 10 in the car.

Blue/Yellow in the wiper plug is the wiper motor position wire feed from the wiper motor to the wiper switch.

The Blue/yellow at the logicon/climate control is the feed between the logicon and the high speed relay for the blower.

Blue/Yellow at the radio is the switched accessory lead.

so which one did you need to know???

Again not related to your problems... and since the other things were working, that rules out your ignition switch all together as those other things are on the same ignition/power wires...

 

Unfortunately yes I am still trying to chase this down. I talked to the old owner today. The wiper/top switch was replaced last September with a Mazda new switch to the tune of $400 as close as she remembers and looking at the switch it looks new.

While I had it apart again today I noticed that the blue/yellow wire coming out of the harness going into that switch had been cut and spliced (the mechanic was a hack from what I can see with this and another issue I had).

Looking at the schematic in the manual (page T-21) I see that that position on that harness (the blue/yellow) is used for the whole backbone of the switch or am I reading the schematic wrong?

I'm no electrical engineer, but I can usually read a schematic pretty well. I just need someone who knows their stuff to confirm or deny that this blue/yellow leads elsewhere. Usually when I see cars wired, they don't reuse the same wire color combo for multiple tasks, it's usually the same type of task...

Mike B

 

Hmm, I don't know if the '88 and '89 are the same, then...

The '88's Blue/Yellow is strictly for the intermittent function, from what I see...It recieves power from the 15A wiper fuse, then a position switch in the wiper motor assy gives the intermittent relay a ground. Same old crappy Mazda schematics, they don't show me the relay internals, so I have to make educated guesses.

The main "power" wires come from the motor windings themselves (Blue/White and Blue/Red) and the wiper switch position (fast, slow, etc...) determine which windings get the ground. Also a Blue/Orange wire for the washer function. Anything sound familiar?

 

I ain't no hack, but I needed the pissant poor design/workmanship of the wiper to work........so I put the blue/yellow to ground so I could see thru the windshield when it rained. RAINX works better than that switch when it was brand new. humor, please. At least I'm pretty sure it was the blue/yellow. Since then I learned how to cold solder new joints in the new relay I put in. humor, really.

 

No you are reading the schematic wrong. The power for the front wiper section of the switch is brought in on the solid Blue wire in pin 9 of the CR-01 plug.

All the blue/yellow does is send a signal to the intermittent wiper relay to tell the switch if the motor is in the on (moving) or off (not moving) position.

By the way... the blue/yellow is listed as L/Y in the shop manuals. Don't confuse this with B/Y which is black/yellow and lightGreen/Yellow (LG/Y) as those are the power for the top and rear wiper respectively and on different fuses than the blue/yellow.

 

Ok, I had a witness in the car today. Logicon and wiper/top switch was not working when we left to go to a party. 15 minutes into the trip the fan came on so at that moment I tried the wipers and they worked, so I'm not going mad.

I have ripped the dash apart now a total of 3 times, and have checked every connection under the dash no matter how far fetched. I even went to the main harness plugs in the drivers kick panel and checked them all out.

I am ready to give up! At least I know I'm not going nutz now having a witness to the problem (even though Icemark thinks so)...

 

The very next time this happens, wiggle your key in the ignition switch a touch and see if the wipers start working. This problem with the wipers and the ignition switch has been described on this forum a number of times. The ignition switch is the one thing in common b/t the wipers and the logicon.

 

My wipers, ac, interior fan, roof, (I am not sure right now about the radio) all fail to come on at the same time. It is always just after I have started the car. Jiggling the key will get them to activate.

 

The thing is, if it is the key then other things would also be going out...

Basicly everything on the accessory wire and 2nd ignition wire, which includeds:



See the logicon does not wire through, only the blower motor... but healey clearly claims that the whole logicon fails as well...

 

Failure on the Logicon is complete. No fans, no lights, no nothing. When it comes back to life, everything works.

 

well you can see what else in the two circuits now... so check to see if the other things in those circuits are dead when your power failure happens.

 

Well folks, the problem has been diagnosed. It is either the ignition switch or the key being used. I tried the key wiggle trick and voila, everything came to life.

The keys I was given with the car are not original and I wonder if that could be a problem that they weren't made well enough.

Is there a way from my VIN number or a number off the ignition switch that I can get a key for my car? I'd rather that be the problem instead of swapping all the locks in the car so I have a single key for the car...

 

I doubt a key will solve the problem, you will need a new switch part...

Intresting that you didn't notice the other things on the 2nd ignition circuit and acc circuit shutting down .

 

The ignition switch can be seperated from the ignition lock.
They are two individual parts.

I had good results with spray contact cleaner in the switch & spray lube in the lock.

 

I just talked to a Mazda dealer and they said if the original dealer who sold the car registers in the record of the car the key number, then it will be associated with the VIN. Otherwise, they won't have a record of it. Their solution was to offered to sell me a new ignition for $225...

 

Those guys are full of ****.
I had to replace my original keys (long story), and I walked into my neighborhood Mazda dealer with my reg and title, and they took the VIN...punched it up in some computer, and it spat out a code for the key.

Look for another Mazda dealer that is willing to just sell you the $7 key recut from your VIN.


-Ted

 

Guys, here is the process. When a car comes to a dealership, they enter the VIN and key number into the system and make it the permanent record. If the info is not entered then the info is lost forever if you loose your keys. Some of us are lucky that someone entered that small piece of data, but the dealership in Albany NY at the time of purchase didn't. Figures...

 

Wow, that fricken sux.
So the car is like illegal?
Did you try calling Mazda North America 1-800 number?


-Ted

 

what is the key number... I'll have one cut for you at my local Mazda dealer and send it too you... its like $5 for a OEM knock off key and cutting, and all they need is the key number or vin.

 

Ok guys, I got lucky. When I got home, I went thru the maintenance paperwork that the woman I got it from kept in a SHOEBOX and in there was the paperwork from when she leased the car. On the lease application was the key number. They do that so that if they have to repossess the car, they can whip up a key.

I took the key number down to the local Mazda store and talked with the guy trying to help me earlier in the day. He cut a key and I was set.

He was telling me that Mazda expected all car information to be keyed by the local dealer including the key number up to the 1990 model. Mazda realized that the dealers were doing a shabby job and took over for the 1991 model year.

So if you have an older Mazda it might be hit or miss with the data being in the system. I am going to ask the service mgr to enter my data into the system so whoever has the car after me won't have an issue if they ever need info from the dealer network.

 

I recently experienced this exact problem. my 1990 vert was flying down the highway to my office when I noticed the air cond fan went dead ( I had replaced the motor a month prior). a closer look and the Logicon was completely dead ..no power. I had the top down and it was a beautiful day so I assumed a fuse and would check it at the end of the day. when I got back in to drive it the top would not go back up, the wipers were dead turn signals would not light up on dash or outside and the hazard switch was dead. Now My logicon was already re-soldered and my wiper switch was rebuilt as well so I was gettig worried this could be something more serious. I followed the advice of this thread and started with ignition switch ..it was worn and looked like it was burned at some points i proceeded to giving it a complete cleaning with sand paper and clean vaseline. This switch can explode when you take it apart so be careful. I lost one small middle spring but the repair got the convertible top power working. everthing else was still dead. I checked my wiring diagram and saw the hazard and wiper switch have separate fuses. I checked the fuses and some how the hazard fuse was completely out and the Wiper fuse was blown. I replaced the hazard fuse and the hazards started working and the turn signals came back on as well. the wiper fuse was replaced next and wipers started to work again The big mystery here is the Logicon came back on after I replaced the wiper fuse!! why does the logicon need the wiper fuse to work?
can a loose hazard fuse cause the wiper fuse to blow?

 

The heater/AC system is powered by two fuses, the Heater fuse and the Wiper fuse.

 

I have been having a similar problem with my 88 vert. The convertible top, dome light, wipers, and interior fan all stop working at the same time and it just seems to happen randomly.

Everything else seems to work fine... hazard lights, turn signals, etc.

Next time this happens I am going to try the key wiggle / slight turn back. I hope it works.

Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

If anyone has some other suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks