So, today driving my car to school and all of a sudden it won't go into any gears. The clutch pedal also feel kind of weird. With the car on, the shifter won't shift into any gear and reverse just grinds. Could someone please give me some advice what could be the problem?

Thank You,

 

Well it can only be 2 things either your clutch is gone or the clutch hydraulics are gone. im betting its the hydraulics which is a very easy fix.

your clutch pedal attaches straight to the clutch master cylinder (little resivor on the driver side by the strut tower to the right of the brake master cylinder closes to the fender) then there is a line that attaches that to the slave cylinder (jst follow the line) and the slave cylinder is the unit that moves the cluth back and forth thru hydro pressure. And thats it, real easy, when this happens u should replace all three units due to how cheap they are(slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and line) It takes like 30 min to do even if your not experinced. All the parts are right there, so simple but if u take it some where to be done they will probably rape u.

U can buy the parts real cheap off nopi.com and get the steel braided hose of mazdatrixs.com (get a steel one not a rubber one)

 

In the meantime, fill the reservoir & bleed the system, so you can drive while you wait for the replacement parts to come.

 

Umm. i dont think my clutch is gone, but the pedal is really loose. The clutch is able to enaged when i start it up , but if i throw it to reverese it grinds and stall. My shop teachers was saying something is not winding up in the tranny. I checked the fluid ect.. and it seem like its engading. I'm able to tow it home now and i need to see what need to fix. If I bring it to a tranny shop, they would probally rape just to check it out.

 

Bleed the system, first. No change?
Bleed it again.
Still nothing?
Check for leaks. None?
Have someone finagle the clutch pedal while you view the slave cylinder. Does it move? Does it move the full range?
If not, open the bleeder again, and attach your clear hose to it again, and prepare to bleed it again. However, while bleeding it this time, note the force at which the fluid is pushed through. In my specific experience, the fluid shot through with enough force to jolt the hose a little. Take that as you may.

If the slave isn't moving, when you press the clutch in and you're sure you bled the system properly, and the fluid is being vigorously pumped by the master, replace the slave. If the master is not pumping, replace the master. If the hose is damaged, replace.

TECHNICALLY, you should replace the master, slave, and the hose all together. I didn't. Works fine.

 

Ok, I'm goin to try that out first, but when i was depressing my clutch, my shop teacher says the master cylinder is fine. I'm goin to try and bleed it , but I never done any bleeding before.

 

Take a piece of rubber hose that will fit snugly to the bleeder valve, and fit it snugly. place the other end in brake fluid. As you depress the clutch fluid (and air if it's there) should shoot through the line and into the brake fluid your hose goes into. Air will cause bubbles, fluid will not.

 

Dammit, I just did the clutch air bleeding and now the car doesnt even start . What did I do to make it not start anymore? Argh, I'm making matter just worst

 

What's it doing when you try to start it?

If it's not doing anything, that is most likely your interlock switch. It's the white switch on the floorboard that is depressed when the clutch is down. Check to make sure that it's getting depressed and is hooked up. It's connected via a white plug with two black wires with green stripes.

 

It doesnt do anything like when u dont step on teh clutch to start. Umm. im confused with the floorboard? Is it near the fuse or something? Sorry, im kind of confused about the interlock switch.

 

Hm, ok....
open the door, push the seat back, and crouch and look in at the clutch pedal, and from the pedal's footpad up towards where the main harness passes through the firewall. Up there somewhere there are two white switches that touch the clutch pedal's lever. One is depressed when the clutch is out, the other is depressed when the clutch is.
The one that is pressed in when the clutch is is the interlock. You can press it in with your finger to bypass the necessity of pushing in the clutch to start. I unplugged the harness and stuffed a piece of tie-wire in it to make it so that I don't need to press the clutch in to start, as I never park in gear anyway.

 

Ok I'll try that tomorrow because its dark right now. Thanks Truespin, You been very helpful to me and my car . I got other questions, I have a friend offering a T2 tranny from a S4 T2 and wondering what I need to make it fit? If its too much of a hassle I have a guy on here offering a spare n/a tranny.

 

One thing not mentioned in the brake bleeding.

Have the friend pushing the pedal hold it down and doesn't release until you have closed the bleed valve.

If they let off you run the chance of sucking air in instead of bleeding it out.

Here are a few things to track down your problem.

-Can you turn the car on in neutral?
---If you can then can you shift into gears or does it grind.
-Can you start it in 1st/2/3/4/5/Reverse without it jerking in motion?

If you can start it in neutral but not in gear then the hydralics most likely went out. The clutch is not disengaging. If this happens and you try to start the car in gear it will jerk forwards trying to go.

The Slave cylinder could be bad = $30 bux/very easy to replace
The Master Cylinder could be bad/bypassing back into the chamber==$$?? Rebuild cheaper but have to know how
The Clutch hose could have a leak==$18 for a Stainless steel one from Corksport or mazdatrix

OR the Throw out bearing could have gone= $45 for a new one from mazdatrix.

I doubt the tranny has something wrong with it.

-----------------------------------------
A T2 tranny will require mazdatrix's hybrid drive shaft or a whole TII rearend to work because the drive shafts don't mate between NA and TII.

 

I think your right, Digi7ech, my car can start on neutral, but not in gear , which cause it to jerk foward. I'm not able to put into any gear, if i try 5th or R it grinds and stall. My clutch feel is very very loose, which is the master cylinder failing ? Do I have to disassemble the tranny to get to the throw out bearing?

EDIT, it can turn on fine before, but after bleeding the clutch it wont turn on. I'm goin to check on the interlock switch tomorrow.

Thanx,

Voeun

 

I'm using the one man bleeder kit, so does the chance of air sucking effect this also?

 

One man bleeder = hose on valve, other end in fluid.

 

You don'rt take the trannt apart. You pull it out.

It's 4 bolts for the drive shaft and around 5-6 for the tranny belhousing to engine. The pull it back and out.

You push the shifter fork forward and slip the bearing off.

 

Oh ok, I'll replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder first and see if that helps. If not, I'll replace the throw bearing.

 

after reading all your posts it has nothing to do with the tranny dont lsten to your shop teacher, you clutch pedal keeps gettin looser and looser right? and u said now u cant even start it thats cause the master/slave isnt pushin the clutch out anymore, its like trying to start a car without even pushin the clutch in.

Its your master/slave, replace both and most people including me replace there rubber line that attaches the two with the steel braided line from mazdatrix. Buy those three parts and your good to go. then your going to have to bleed and replace clutch fluid after the install.have a friend help u with that

 

Thanx, yeah i tried that interlock and still doesn't start. I'm scared once I replace these parts and it still doesnt start? I just re-did the bleeding and I have a better feel for the clutch, not as loose as before. I'm just waiting for my parts to come in now.

 

I removed the slave cylinder and it look like it isnt working properly, so gotta wait to replace that. I need some advice to remove the clutch master cylinder though. Any advice on removing it, will be very useful.

Thanx,

 

I just replace the master and slave cylinder with a working one and the car still doesnt start. The night that it broke, it started fine until I went to bleed the clutch and it stopped working. I have no clue what the problem is that causing it not to start at all. Could this be my starter gone bad or something?

 

i don't think its your starter.

 

I don't think it's your starter either. You might have just drained your battery. Charge it and see if you car will still start in neutral. As far as your other problem, if you have correctly replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the system of all air bubbles than you probably need to replace the clutch. (I just did mine last fall)

Chuck

 

Is it turning over? you could have flooded it the last time u tried to start it.