my clutch is broken again
#1
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Damn, this sucks. i was on my way back to school in Philly and my clutch dies when i'm still an hour or so away from my destination. well this happened sunday and i still have no idea what happened to my car for sure. i hope it's only the clutch slave, because the master was replaced a few thousand miles ago.
anyways, i have no time to make the repairs myself (i never have time for that sort of thing). so imy dad is picking up the car today so he can work on it for me. i hope this doesn't take long because i'm feeling really
.
anyways, i have no time to make the repairs myself (i never have time for that sort of thing). so imy dad is picking up the car today so he can work on it for me. i hope this doesn't take long because i'm feeling really
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#2
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Maybe you'll get lucky and it's something as simple as the line. Though, the slave cylinders are pretty cheap themselves. At least it's not brakes or something where it requires hours to fix.
#3
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UPDATE: weird flooding issue
Ok, the clutch does need to be replaced but now it also seems that the engine is still flooding when the car is turned off, like fuel is leaking into the flow. I personally don't know much about the fuel deliver system or much about the flooding issue, but that does seem like a mechanical problem. I would like to avoid installing a kill switch, if possible, although i don't think that will help in any case because there is no power getting to the fuel pump when the car is off (duh).
Could the problem lie in the replacing the fuel pump or possible the fuel injectors? The injectors were cleaned last December, so i would hope they are in good shape. when you do start the car, she has a really rough idle to the point where you have to give it some gas to keep her from stalling.
any ideas. all helpful insight is greatly appriciated. I miss my baby
.
Could the problem lie in the replacing the fuel pump or possible the fuel injectors? The injectors were cleaned last December, so i would hope they are in good shape. when you do start the car, she has a really rough idle to the point where you have to give it some gas to keep her from stalling.
any ideas. all helpful insight is greatly appriciated. I miss my baby
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#4
Rotary Freak
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dont go installing a switch.
unless you absolutely have to!
Have your injectors cleaned, you wil lprobably find that one is not closing all the way or at all.
This is the only way for flooding to happen.
At the injector.
Have your injectors cleaned, you wil lprobably find that one is not closing all the way or at all.
This is the only way for flooding to happen.
At the injector.
#5
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I have a switch, and I like it. But my injectors never really flooded, I just did it as a precaution. The rough idle sounds like the TPS to me. Try adjusting that first. It is more than likely the culprit. Do you know how to unflood the engine? Pull the spark plugs and the 30A EGI fuse in the main fuse box, next to the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay. Crank the engine for 15 seconds at a time, then wait for another 30, rhen repeat. Do this until there is no more smoke coming from the engine.
#6
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Sniper: Like i said, i had the injectors cleaned in December, so there is no way i'm going to have them cleaned my a mechanic again (it was F***'n expensive). I have heard of a fuel additive that's supposed to clean the injectors out, maybe you've heard of someone that has had some luck with it.
Rico: Up until the time the car ran into some problems, the thottle was running prefectly. Actually it had been running for serveral thousand miles with the slightest change in movement. I'll look into it but i think the idle evened out after running for a short while. Also, i don't think it's that far flooded that you need to pull the plugs and the EGI to get it started.
I'll try and answers everyone to help give you guys more insight into what's going on because i'm sure i'm not explaining everything perfectly.
Rico: Up until the time the car ran into some problems, the thottle was running prefectly. Actually it had been running for serveral thousand miles with the slightest change in movement. I'll look into it but i think the idle evened out after running for a short while. Also, i don't think it's that far flooded that you need to pull the plugs and the EGI to get it started.
I'll try and answers everyone to help give you guys more insight into what's going on because i'm sure i'm not explaining everything perfectly.
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#9
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I thought it was stuck at first because when i did press the clucth it felt soft but a sqealling noise would sound. so i pumped the clutch hard a few times and it seemed to go away. at the time i was on the NJT so i couldn't get a tow and had to drive (w/o a clucth mind you) to the next exit and get off in Edison, NJ. So, i suppose it could still be sticking and the shop i took it to for the initial check over didn't know how to start a flooded engine (typical
). but i'm not sure maybe i'll way on the injectors until the clutch work is done.
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#12
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The CORRECT flooded start procedure is to pull the fuel pump fuse [box next to driver's side strut tower - furthest away fuse] and then crank the car with the gas pedal floored for 15 -20 secs and then put the fuse back in and start as normal - if really badly flooded may have to do two or even three times - I've never had to do more than once and my bitch pulls a flood about once a month on average. I've certainly never had to start screwing around taking the plugs out!
#13
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With regard to the clutch problem - this is the probably the most simple hydraulic system known to man - and totally incomprehensible to every Mazda so called technician! It is all external and the operation can be observed from above the car - have someone pump the clutch, assuming you have fluid in the reserviour - and look and feel for movement of the actuating arm on the top of the bellhousing - if it is moving your hydraulics work! If you are down on fluid the most common leak and the one Mazda are incapable of finding is the rubber seal on the bottom of the reserviour, the second most likely is the flex hose, and lastly, the master or slave cylinders - the cylinders are progressive failures and take time to make themselves known. By the way, it is totally impossible to shift a Rex synchro tranny up or down without the clutch - so if you managed to drive it into a shop you had to have some clutch response.
Next I will tackle the Middle East problem, but that's another forum.
Next I will tackle the Middle East problem, but that's another forum.
#14
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sureshot: i was thinking the slave might be bad too because i'm not loosing fluid.
ianbell: i feel the same way about pulling the spark plugs just to un-flood the engine, but i will pull the EGI fuse, that's easy enough to do (along with being a poor mans security system
). and no i had no clutch response, i was literally shifting the car without using the clutch pedal. ![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
UPDATE: I know now that the bearing is shot and that seems to be what has been causing the problem. Once that's done I'll try pulling the EGI fuse and un-flooding the engine. I'll let you know what kind of progress has been made over the next few days.
ianbell: i feel the same way about pulling the spark plugs just to un-flood the engine, but i will pull the EGI fuse, that's easy enough to do (along with being a poor mans security system
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UPDATE: I know now that the bearing is shot and that seems to be what has been causing the problem. Once that's done I'll try pulling the EGI fuse and un-flooding the engine. I'll let you know what kind of progress has been made over the next few days.
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