Oh so theres a sensor that makes the motor rev high without proper lubrication for the first minute or two? That makes sense.. Mazda owns.. Yes I am a newbie in that case.

 

The turbo isn't going to spool up without throttle input.

 

ok I think that mazda engeneers put that system in there for a reason and I dont think it is a bad one I agree it sounds like it would do damage but honestly I doubt it I think it would be perfectly fine to use the aws system when it kicks on.

btw bunchies a turbocharges is spinning when the car is iding without the throttle being depressed, how ever u dont build boost untill under acceleration and under load. but the turbo wheels are ALWAYS spinning when the engien is running..

 

You guys thing you are better engineers than mazda? allright..

Anyway, kind of opposite of the topic here, how could I make mine not rev up so much when I start it when it's hot? Only when it is hot do the rpms go to around 3K for a second. It's really annoying!!

 

does anyone read the damn FAQ anymore?

 

ok it does this as part of the warm up program. it is supposed to do this to warm up the engine. if it freaks you out so bad right after you start it, bump the gas a lil and itll rev up then go down to operating speed. i dont recommend starting it in gear my friend slipped his foot off the clutch and ran his front end into the garage door destroying the door and his brand new GP1 front end. OUCH

 

It idles at different RPM depending on cranking temperature too. Below 59F and above 99F, you're only on the fast idle cam. I believe the 3k startup is to get the catalytic converters and O2 sensor up to operating temperature as soon as possible. It doesn't kick in when it's cold, as suggested by HAILERS a while ago, because the oil will be too thick. It doesn't kick in when it's hot because things are probably close enough to operating temperature. Check the first graph out:
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=60&co=1&vi=1

 

I hear that one of the primary reasons for the AWS is to help burn of built up carbon upon start up.

 

IMO I say it wont hurt to leave it and it prolly wont hurt to remove it... I will be removing mine to clean up the engine bay however I still start my car and idle it up to liek 2-2500 for a few seconds to make sure it is warmedd up before I take off... now I know the car is not at operating temps, and I dont have convertors but I still believe the mazda engeneers had it right form the get go and it should do this when nessecary..
I believe a 20 year old system is prolly not working EXACTLY as it should anymore. for instance mine will only sometimes work even when below 30 deg it should anytime cold at that temp but every morning is different sometimes it will sometimes it wont more so now it dont. when I bought the car months back it did it when it sat overnight or for a few hours eveytime like it should but now it is not working properly.. so I do it myself.

 

Pics of the sensor and disconnected plugs. This shot is from the battery side of the car, straight down. It's just a bullet type connector, so it's easy enough to unplug. If it's stuck, use some pliers or vice grips. As I recall, on my Koyo S4 radiator, the sensor itself doesn't touch the coolant, it's just screwed into the end-tank wall, so you could remove it if you wanted to.



And yes, those are Racing Beat oil cooler lines. My old ones were pretty shitty so I replaced them with some nice SS braided lines. I found out later that you can go to a hydraulic shop and have some made for a fraction of the price. Meh.