SexInDaRex

the smooth look is awesome!!!

Xbladr

I am going for almost the same thing and will be painting mine int he next few weeks as well... I decided to mold the rear and sides of the gp sports kit myself also my first time and it is coming out really well... I am keeping the molding well I took the molding off and cleaned up the area so the actual indent will be there but it matches up with the lines on the rear front and sides. I am also keeping the gp sports front it was a tough fit but looks unbelievable... gluck to you i cant wait to see finished pics and im going with a gunmetal grey metallic

68Sniper

iTrader: (1)

Nice Man kinda looks like mine GJ on moulding WOOT

SexInDaRex

thanks bro! Post some pics here of your car. I also decided to keep the original front bumper because I want peeps to know that it is still a 7. With the original front its unmistakeable.

SexInDaRex

Looks great man! what wing is that? what does the front look like?

Xbladr

I will post pics next week... I I did a ton of body work today and next week I primer and paint so it should be good to go... I will make a huge thread about it gluck with your project

SexInDaRex

thanks man and goodluck with yours!!

68Sniper

iTrader: (1)

Hey keep up the great work man and trust me when you get it done you can just stand back and say "yep I did all that" its just a great feeling to have. that wing is eberni << sp oops wing and here are some more pics that you asked for

68Sniper

iTrader: (1)

And just a couple more for ya sorry so many im just a proud owner...LOL

Xbladr

Wow that is a lot of body work that is an amazing job you did. I feel the same way though I love just looking at it even now when its 5 different colors just because you can see all the work you put into it and taste what the final product is going to look like.

SexInDaRex

yea man thats why I decided to learn how to do body work because I know that its for me and that I would put my best effort. Also the feeling of knowing you did it is the best! I didn't want to mold my front bumper though. Just in case some thing cracked on it. I could remove and fix it. I was thinking on shaving off the door handles as well!! Not sure yet. I have more pictures of the sound proofing and rust proofing and everything.

unek87

if i was going the kit route i would most likely shave my moldings . both you guys did a great job of doing that . how did you guys shave them ? did you just tack in sheet medal or did you use a body filler . cause either way works good . you just got to make sure you get the right kinda of filler , i cant remember what the name of the filler is but i know if you use reg. bondo that after awhile it tends so crack and break apart. me on the other hand dont have the money for the kit and motor work so i'm keeping it simple with e exterior and going motor. i'm actually taking my s5 bumpers off and going back to all s4 molding and bumpers, repainting either stock red or color change to a charcole grey and then finding or making a lil lip kit for the front and sides. great job again and keep us posted. and 2

unek87

and o yeah dont shave the handles leave some kinda body lines . plus its a bitch when your poppers go . its happened to a few of my friends and one actually put his handle back in . just my 0.02 cents

SexInDaRex

thanks bro thats what I was thinking about and that why I havent done it myself.

I used fiberglass mesh on both sides of where the molding used to be, then I filled the gap with fiberglass hair and then used a thin layer of bondo. Like i said I am keeping the front bumper and will be putting on a lip.

68Sniper

iTrader: (1)

exactly how i shaved every thing how you did it above and i left the trunk key-way their in case of emergency just crawl through not exactly fun but how often are you going to have to do that. and the reason that i moulded the front if it gets messed up i know just the guy to fix it the right way.lol (me) thanks for all the GOOD replys and sorry if im stomping on youre thread man

SexInDaRex

nah its kool man I love the posting keep em coming bro!!! Like I said your car looks awesome. I finally drove my car to the place it will get painted. Now comes the hours of hard work!!! After putting in the racing beat header and presilencer that bitch is loud man. Any ideas on silencing it some?

matts86fc3s

SEXINDAREX... what kind of bondo/filler did you use? i hate using bondo and im going to shave all bodylines on my car... im guessing you used the professional stuff... the "green" stuff... where did you get it?

lupin

iTrader: (3)

SexInDaRex you did a good job, Now why don't you leave that rear window off and see if you can fit a small truck window in and use sheetmetal and bondo to make it A silrx. Haha jk

SexInDaRex

Thanks man I actually thought about it and I just might do that.

SexInDaRex

I used the bondo in advance auto parts its a yellow can. I have read about bondo but honestly I used this stuff and it has been good to me and the many other cars that have it. I would not use bondo to fill in the molding area the reason being that it WILL crack. That is whay i used the fiberglass cloth first then the fiberglass hair then the bondo for the thin final layer. The fiberglass hair is very strong and wont crack like the bondo. Just make sure that with the fiberglass hair that the metal surface is sanded rough so that the hair sticks really well. It's hard work but it will definitly be worth it. Never use bondo for areas where you will need to lay it on thick it will surely crack.

68Sniper

iTrader: (1)

Yup you got it and the steps go. Step 1 grind the whole area that you intend to (fill) with 36 grit. Step 2 get some fiberglass matting and resin put youre hardner into the resin then take a 36cent paint brush (the cheapest that you can find) spread the resin cut matting to proper length and (dab) the resin with the brush. onto the car. After that hardens gring it back down (Flat) with 36 Grit and now for step 3 is to add fiberglass filler Evercoat is a good brand layer that on and let cure with 80 grit paper sand that back down nd now for step 4 witch is BONDO alot of people make this stuff i personaly use evercoat. After you put this on use a (DA- Duel action sander) with 180 grit to make that smooth now the last step whitch is some type of glaze and this fills any pin holes that you may have and use 320 grit to take that off Ahhhhhhh finally you got that one little spot ready for primer now do that too every spot that you want to shave or fill. This really sound like alot but this is the proper way to do body work (note to self WORK) have fun ya"ll

SexInDaRex

I couldn't have said it better myself that is exactly how I did it. Thanks Sniper.

Mazda99Nikon

Very nice work.

I've got some questions.

My rocker panels on the passenger side, along with rear shelf behind the hatch (where the wing mounts) is pretty rusted. I've used the fiberglass method you described, but the rust came back from underneath in about 3 years. I'm actually thinking about welding in new metal and filling it with lead. I'll finish the whole deal with a spray type zinc rustproofing. I saw the technique done on a cable tv series where a guy was restoring a 60s era Jag. I've practiced with the lead and file and feel I'm about ready to give it a go but I'm wondering how do you think that will hold up in comparison to the fiberglass approach? My car gets driven as a DD in the winter in Illinois. Lots of salt on the freeway.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

That is one clean body, great job deleteing the side mouldings, i'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

-Jared

SexInDaRex

Before you fiberglass you should remove all rust. The rust shouldn't return. Take it down to bare metal and make sure. I would have to see pics and actually look at the care to say what I would do.