Tron

Is the check valve and proportioning valve a dealer only part?

tesla042

One more thing about my situation.. My brakes seem firmer and just overall better when I leave it in gear and don't disengage the clutch while I brake.. I know the engine is helping to slow me down during this, but there is a very definite FEEL difference...and i swear, it doesn't seem to fade as much..

It seems to me that the engine would be under MORE vacuum during this condition... which leads me to believe that it's the booster... Anyone else experience this?

Just rolling along at 80mph and switching it to neutral, and braking while idling is pretty bad sometimes.... OTOH, so is locking up the rear wheels in gear.. heh

-Tesla

Tron

My next thing to replace is the checkvalve I think...

I'm moving to CA on Sunday so it'll have to wait until I get settled...

blu_gxl

dude where in ca. are you moving??

tesla yes that would create more vaccum but, also more waer on your clutch and already waek part of the FC you can pull the check valve out and just blow into it to test that and you can prob. hear a vaccum leak at the booster if you run the car and then turn it off and have someone push the peadal for you while you listen for a leak with a stethescope or something similar. you should one normal operation of the brakes after the car is off according to US law

Tron

ok...update...

i recently put on a set of KYB AGX and noticed it looked like my rear calipers may be stuck...the rotora weren't showing a great wear pattern...

would this cause crappy pedal and crummy braking?

i think i will replace the brake lines as well, to stainless steel ones, get rebuilt calipers all the way around, replace the check valve...and if that doens't fix it I'm going to throw it away and get a FD

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

A stuck caliper will not cause a soft or sinking pedal. The piston doesn't move, so fluid into that caliper will not change. If calipers are bad (leaking), naturally you'll see some loss of fluid around the calipers.

Icemark

whole problem is related to the check valve and/or the booster.

waste of time dealing with the calipers

Tron

i've had this car now for over 10 years, and when the problem first arose is when I needed a new master cylinder for some reason...I hit the brakes and the pedal went to the floor and I had zero braking power!!...would something like that cause the checkvalve to get fawked up??

oh yeah where can i get a new check valve? or how can i diagnose it?

Icemark

Hook a vacuum gauge up at the booster and see if you are loosing vacuum

Barwick

I woulda swore it's the master cylinder, but you already replaced it? The same thing happened on my Accord and is happening on my Civic.. and the Accord was the master cylinder

Tron

yeah i replaced the MC and that didn't help the problem...

i will check the vacuum this weekend