TUNING, what i want to do is put my s4 na turbo setup on. but be in a safe tune. my questions are. how much do i retard the timing and how do u know its enough. should i use the na ecu or turbo ecu. if i use the turbo ecu what problems do u run into(example knock sensor). should i use s4 na injectors or turbo injectors. i was thinking of getting a rtek ecu. but i am no tuner. any help or advice would be great good or bad. i just really want to have a na turbo car. the motor is 25k and would like some extra power.

 

so you are going to turbo an NA?

If that is the case you will uncover a plethora of information through the search

 

Don't just retard the CAS. Keep the CAS installed correctly, then get an Rtek and tune the timing that way, using the rpm vs boost ignition maps.

 

i have no idea on how to change the rpm vs boost maps. if i do get an rtek should i use the na ecu or the turbo ecu.

 

^^^^^Boost maps= turbo ecu.

Go to aaroncakes website too, and read the **** out of it.

john ny

 

You need to get an N332 or N333 (s4 turbo ECU) and send it in.

 

Using an N332/333 in a S4 NA car is very simple. Cut the knock sensor wire (p/s switch on NA harness), and plug it in. If you don't cut it, the ecu will adjust timing every time you turn the wheel.

And no 460cc injectors on a turbo'd engine. 550cc minimum. Rtek 2.0/2.1 will be the best bet (aside from a standalone) in getting it to not blow up.

 

ok so anybody know whats the base map for each pound i add how much i retard timing. cause i can get a air fuel gauge and get that right just keep it 14.7 all through the ranges right. what if i already took my ps off do i still have to cut the switch.

 

I suggest you let someone else tune it, I am sure there is a fellow rotorhead within your area that could give you a hand.

 

What standalone? How much boost? What turbo? More details about the setup....

 

well i am going to run stock s4 turbo setup injectors intake etc.. with rtek ecu. with stock wastegate. i think they run at 6 to 8 lbs. right. now when i cut the harness to the power steering switch i use it for the knock sensor. or can i eliminate the knock sensor. whats the best route.

 

Port your s4 wastegate an obsene amount, and weld a larger washer on the flapper door. You dont want to push more than 5-6lbs with an rtek1.5 and high compression rotors. You will need an adaptor plate to go from 6 to 4 port turbo manis. Knock sensor will be a good precaution with an na engine. I didnt **** with it personally with my t2 setup. You may want to though. Do a lot of research before you do anything. Ebay and the classified section are your friends.

john ny

 

i heard u can use the lower and upper intake from a s4 t2 on a s4 na. i will be getting the new rtek.

 

Dude, you need to search a lot more!

14.7:1 is gonna blow up very quickly! You can't use the lower TII manifolds on the NA block.

Please do some more homework! There are threads about this everywhere!

 

You can use T2 lower and upper intake manifolds. However you cannot use them unless you get the Lower intake manifold port matched from 4 ports to 6 ports. Japan2LA has one for sale right now, if he has sold it he will most likely make you another. Like everyone else has been sayin, Homework, and research. What do you have planned for an intercooler? Have you seen AaronCakes Turbo N/A website? Most of these questions are answered and i know the search tool is a pain sometimes but these are not hard answer to find.

 

Also the way to make the most power is tuning, yes NA engines are easier to blow, but with a good tune they are just as safe as a turbo motor. Tuning is key, i would suggest a better engine management setup then rtek. Power FC, Haltec, but most importantly what ever the tuner is more familar with. I have a friend here in NY with an FD and he is running s5 NA rotors in his motor with a T78 turbo. So dont let people scare you into thinking you cant make power.

 

ok, that made no sense. Turbo motors blow up all the time, but hardly anybody has ever detonated a nonturbo. i owned one for 3 years, advanced the timing like 8 degrees on the CAS, and ran 87 all day long. It never pinged and made 172rwhp.

Anyway, get the Rtek and we can help you put together a timing map. Here is an rpm vs Boost map that I put together for someone with a Knightsports hybrid (probably closest to a BNR stage 2) and stock TMIC. I never got a chance to test it, but it should be a safe starting point that is based on what I am using on an FD at 14psi on sequential twins.

 

Sorry, easier to blow if they do not know what there doing. That is what i was trying to get across. However, its just as easy to blow a turbo motor i would assume if you do not know what you are doing.

 

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You have to do some fabrication to make the lower turbo intake manifold match the non turbos intake ports on the front and rear side housings.

JAPAN2LA does make/fabricate a turbo lower intake manifold to match the non turbo front and rear intake ports.

If you do it yourself, you need to fill in some void areas and gut out some material to make the two items match.

I attach JAPAN2LA manifold pictures. As you send him your turbo lower manifold and he welds/machines the port to look like the pictures attached.

 

You take a non turbo intake manifold Gasket, and lay it on top of the Turbo manifold. You'll see the openings don't come close to matching on the front and rear side housings. So you get a Dremel motor and sanding drum and have at it. Then you also have to fill voids in the Turbo intake.

Some use plastic filler. I used molten plumbers solder. The areas I've outlined in Blue are where I filled the voids. The area covered in red X's is where metal was ground out. I have no before pictures of the turbo manifold.

The ACV becomes functionless when you do the above on a series four engine.

 

wow, that is alot of info to consume. i appreciate the help. ok so when i get a rtek. what wide band should i get, to tune with my car with. and is it worth trying to hook it up with the rtek. what should my air fuel be around.

 

i just pulled my motor. starting to tear it apart.

 

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ for the wideband

 

almost sounds easier/cheaper to do a strait TII swap...

 

for more reasons than others