schurchill39

Instead of starting new threads for each question I figured it would be way easyer to have one thread for every question.

Next week I am picking up a full s4 gxl rear sub frame with the full LSD swap and a full big brake swap (5 bolt swap inclu.). I own a 1988 base model. Here are my questions.

1. Can the actual differentials themselves jsut be swaped over or will I need to replace the half shafts, hubs, lines etc?
2. Do I need the drive shaft from the GXL?
3. With the LSD swap will I still beable to use my 4 bolt rear hubs?
4. Will the bigger 4 caliper brakes from the GXL be compatible with my rotors or will a **** load of stuff need to be replaced in order to do that?
5. Is it worth redrilling the rotors from the GXL to fit my 4 bolt?
6. Can the stock sway bars from the GXL be used on the base model (I hear they are alot more beefy)

7. Are there any write ups to guide me and my friend along when we do the LSD swap, we are decently mechanically inclinded but seeing as I am still learning about my car I dont know a whole lot (apparently) about it. I have the hanes manual but they make everything seem so simple.

I am pretty inclined to keep the 4 bolt hubs for both appearance and because the new rims i bought are 4 bolt.

Thanks for your time and remember, I am still learning about my car!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

1. Yes, just swap the diff.
2. No, you dont, just diff.
3. Yes, you will be able to.
4. Should be direct bolt on. Although it should be floaters for the back...
5. Do NOT do that... Just drop the whole hub and swap it over.
6. Direct bolt on... Don't think it is any beefer...
7. Remove the two front bolt that holds the front of the subframe... then move that mount out of the way... Then drop the two rear bolt of the diff, and go under and yank down... Whole thing will drop, and all you have to do is remove the front diff mount to drop the diff... Installation is reverse of removal. Take catback out.... disconnect halfshaft and driveshaft before you do it... Before you put the diff in, get both halfshaft so they are pointing up, it makes putting them back in easier.

schurchill39

Thanks alot!

Theres no point in swaping the swap bars then is there?

Thats what i like about thsi forum every one is straight and to the point, definitly alot less flaming an bitching compared to other threads i am apart of.

schurchill39

My third and second gear is starting to grind (more, I bought it with the grind) so i want to swap out my tranny. Is it pretty straight forward (meaning I would beable to do it myself) or is there any small tinkering I should have a shop do?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

swapping the tranny is a pretty straight forward job...

Just make sure to double check everything once you've got it back together...

TIP - I usually unbolt the entire slave from the tranny rather then disconnecting the lines and bleeding it later on.....this saves you a little headache when you get it back together.

Also, mark the drive shaft in relation the the flange on the diff, sometimes weights have been installed for balance and you might experience slight vibration if they are installed in the improper configuration....sometimes it doesn't matter but you're better safe then sorry

Alex6969

I belive the TII swaybars are bigger, whether or not they bolt on to the base modle i don't know. it would a better idea to get the Racing Beat or compatable kit and go that route

Jager

iTrader: (10)

TII sway bars are the same as GXL sways, and since its heavier then the base model they have bigger sways.

The convertable has even bigger sways and are roughly the same size as the Racing Beat sways.

schurchill39

Air fuel gauge.. is it worth it. I can get one off a friend of mine for cheep and it gives me a chance to do a gauge pod project on the steering colum, if the guage pod screws up I have a replacement steering colum cover. The $$ isnt an issue because like I said its cheep.