my 88 7 will not turn off!!!! help
#1
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my 88 7 will not turn off!!!! help
my car willnot shut off after i remove my igniton car, just replaced ignition switch thinking it was the problem, i thought it was a bad igniton switch, i have to disconnect the battery to stop car from running, i think i have a bad relay or something, power is still on when i remove my key.
#2
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I once had that same problem with an Alfa Romeo sedan (I loved that car, but it had the weirdest malfunctions). I eventually discovered, by accident, that the switch was shorting to the steering column through the ground for my horn, and that was completing the circuit.
I don't expect that you have the exact same problem, but it could be something similar--maybe this will give you some new ideas about what you might check.
Good luck
I don't expect that you have the exact same problem, but it could be something similar--maybe this will give you some new ideas about what you might check.
Good luck
#4
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Originally Posted by White87FC
The car should not turn off if you disconnect the battery.
I understand what he means, because I well remember going through it. He disconnects the battery, gets back in the car, puts it in gear, and kills it with the clutch. Then he puts the cable back on the battery and starts all over again.
#5
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if you need your car to shut off, (what i am about to state is obviously a temp fix) - pull the fuel pump connector.. in cargo area by the driver side strut tower..
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Originally Posted by foild
if you need your car to shut off, (what i am about to state is obviously a temp fix) - pull the fuel pump connector.. in cargo area by the driver side strut tower..
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#8
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Originally Posted by buttsjim
I understand what he means, because I well remember going through it. He disconnects the battery, gets back in the car, puts it in gear, and kills it with the clutch. Then he puts the cable back on the battery and starts all over again.
#12
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put a fuel cut off switch on it inside the car that way when he flips the switch all the fuel runs out of the lines and it dies naturally. Then he just has to get it started again. This will also fix any flooding out problems he has. To install the switch goto www.iluvmyrx7.com
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Originally Posted by Sir Rupert Hobo
it is a four wire connector.
ah...good to know. Thanks. And Rupert...I like how you painted your engine bay flat black. Looks good. Ive been wanting to do the same thing.
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Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
And why would you even need to disconnect the battery to do that?!?! Just hold the brake and pop the clutch while its in gear. It WILL cut off. No need for all the running back and forth to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
I would think the best way to kill it is to pull off the Mass air flow Sensor connector, i know my car wont win wid dat unplugged
#17
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Originally Posted by Madrx7racer
I was about to say the same thing.........easiest way without having to pull a lot of ****....
2nd easiest - pull the 2 EGI fuses. No clips on those, and they're not under an airbox...
#18
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Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
And why would you even need to disconnect the battery to do that?!?! Just hold the brake and pop the clutch while its in gear. It WILL cut off. No need for all the running back and forth to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
I guess it's kind of off the subject anyway--that was a one-of-a-kind problem in a car that wasn't an RX7. I just mentioned my experience with it to point out that his problem could be somewhere other than his ignition wiring.
#19
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I still don't see whats so hard about pulling vac lines. Nothing has to be taken off, just grab the lines and pull, **** theres what like 3 or 4 on the dynamic chamber alone? Or the huge one on the intake pipe, that'd kill it in a sec.
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omg, no offence to anyone here, but most of these are completley rediculous suggestions. We have also now gotten into a contest to see how many ways there are to stall an FC.
The best and most LOGICAL way, without you having to pop the friggen hood every time you want it to shut off, would be to disconnect the fuel pump harness, just like the other guy said on the first page...
The best and most LOGICAL way, without you having to pop the friggen hood every time you want it to shut off, would be to disconnect the fuel pump harness, just like the other guy said on the first page...
#21
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
omg, no offence to anyone here, but most of these are completley rediculous suggestions. We have also now gotten into a contest to see how many ways there are to stall an FC.
The best and most LOGICAL way, without you having to pop the friggen hood every time you want it to shut off, would be to disconnect the fuel pump harness, just like the other guy said on the first page...
The best and most LOGICAL way, without you having to pop the friggen hood every time you want it to shut off, would be to disconnect the fuel pump harness, just like the other guy said on the first page...
Why is that more convenient?
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I was thinking of the same thing that felixwankell88 suggested the whole time he just got his word in before I did. Just one plug that is right there in the front of the car. No major disassembly required and no guess work (vaccume lines)
#25
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Fuel, spark, air and compression are the necessary components to making the engine run. One is not more important than the other. Eliminate any one to make the engine stop.
Some methods may be easier than others. Like pulling vacuum lines. That could work if you pull the right one, or enough of them and allow way too much air into the engine for it to run. But what is the most noticeable symptom of a vacuum leak? Higher, rougher idle, not always a stall condition. So if you don't pull the right hose the first time, you could be standing there with a handful of vacuum hoses wondering where they all are supposed to go.
But nonetheless, you all are certified to stop an engine from running if turning the key off doesn't work. End of argument.
Some methods may be easier than others. Like pulling vacuum lines. That could work if you pull the right one, or enough of them and allow way too much air into the engine for it to run. But what is the most noticeable symptom of a vacuum leak? Higher, rougher idle, not always a stall condition. So if you don't pull the right hose the first time, you could be standing there with a handful of vacuum hoses wondering where they all are supposed to go.
But nonetheless, you all are certified to stop an engine from running if turning the key off doesn't work. End of argument.