My $65 S4 13b. :D
03-31-05, 08:47 PM
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My $65 S4 13b. :D
I love my local U-Pull yard. Just last week I walked away with the rear seats, rear carpeting (including the sides), almost all the switchs and some trim for less then $30, and now check this treasure out...
Here's the donor (S4 SE):
Oh my, looks like someone left the stove on for too long (PD failure):
My awesome assistant/coworker:
My new 13b's grand chariot:
Here's the donor (S4 SE):
Oh my, looks like someone left the stove on for too long (PD failure):
My awesome assistant/coworker:
My new 13b's grand chariot:
03-31-05, 08:50 PM
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In the back previsouly mentioned coworker's truck (thanks Race!!):
On the garage floor.... that thing looks pretty nasty, eh:
After two hours worth of cleaning and pulling stuff off:
The pile of stuff I yanked. Notice how clean the front cover is after an additional 15 minutes of scrubbing:
On the garage floor.... that thing looks pretty nasty, eh:
After two hours worth of cleaning and pulling stuff off:
The pile of stuff I yanked. Notice how clean the front cover is after an additional 15 minutes of scrubbing:
03-31-05, 08:56 PM
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Here's a video after squirting some Royal Purple gear lube I had laying around in there and spinning it a few times: Right-clicking works best.
It cleaned up pretty well, and there is very little corrosion on the outter surface of the housings. I checked what I could of the rotors and internal plating and it looks very promissing. No scoring and a small amount of carbon is visible. All apex seals are in place and move. I have filled it with the gear lube to ensure that corrosion doesn't occur until I can have the time to pull it apart. I have been told that fire baked engiens can have problems with rust, but this one seems to have burned for only a short period.
As you can hear from the video, the rear rotor is compressing quite well, and the front is strong except on one face. I'm not sure why, because those seals all look fine to me.
A bit of coolant did come out of the exhaust port the first couple of times around, so I could be dealing with a bad coolant seal, but I'm not sure because I haven't yanked it yet.
The only thing I need to get a hold of now is the 2 1/8" socket for the flywheel and I can begine to pull stuff apart.
I'm just taking it apart to check the condition of the hard seals, rotors, and housings this time, then I'm putting it back together for storage until I have the time and money to street port it and put new seals in as needed.
It cleaned up pretty well, and there is very little corrosion on the outter surface of the housings. I checked what I could of the rotors and internal plating and it looks very promissing. No scoring and a small amount of carbon is visible. All apex seals are in place and move. I have filled it with the gear lube to ensure that corrosion doesn't occur until I can have the time to pull it apart. I have been told that fire baked engiens can have problems with rust, but this one seems to have burned for only a short period.
As you can hear from the video, the rear rotor is compressing quite well, and the front is strong except on one face. I'm not sure why, because those seals all look fine to me.
A bit of coolant did come out of the exhaust port the first couple of times around, so I could be dealing with a bad coolant seal, but I'm not sure because I haven't yanked it yet.
The only thing I need to get a hold of now is the 2 1/8" socket for the flywheel and I can begine to pull stuff apart.
I'm just taking it apart to check the condition of the hard seals, rotors, and housings this time, then I'm putting it back together for storage until I have the time and money to street port it and put new seals in as needed.
03-31-05, 09:08 PM
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well get the socket and lets see some pics of the internals,
last engine i tore apart was all rusted, and scored from a piece of the iron breaking off into the combustion chamber, such a shame
cool pics none the less
last engine i tore apart was all rusted, and scored from a piece of the iron breaking off into the combustion chamber, such a shame
cool pics none the less
Last edited by mcnannay; 03-31-05 at 09:11 PM.
03-31-05, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by The Spyder
Good job man,
You get a 54mm socket yet or are you going to completly tear it down?
You get a 54mm socket yet or are you going to completly tear it down?
Will it be torqued on much tighter then the front pulley bolt? I had to push the engine against the wall and push with my foot while I hung off the bar to get that one off.
I found that sticking a crowbar between the flywheel and rear housing and catching the little lip on the flywheel keep it from spinning without damaging anything though, I almost was ready to fabricate a bracket.
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03-31-05, 09:21 PM
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Nice find man!
That body is a little messed up. Front left fender looks to have a crease, and the right side rocker panel is busted off.
Still...looks straight. Exactly what I will need when doing my project. Cant WAIT to get a house!
That body is a little messed up. Front left fender looks to have a crease, and the right side rocker panel is busted off.
Still...looks straight. Exactly what I will need when doing my project. Cant WAIT to get a house!
03-31-05, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
Nice find man!
That body is a little messed up. Front left fender looks to have a crease, and the right side rocker panel is busted off.
Still...looks straight. Exactly what I will need when doing my project. Cant WAIT to get a house!
That body is a little messed up. Front left fender looks to have a crease, and the right side rocker panel is busted off.
Still...looks straight. Exactly what I will need when doing my project. Cant WAIT to get a house!
The tranny might still be good though, but I don't see any reason to go back and grab it. How well do you think a stock N/A tranny and clutch will hold up to a moderate street port (my clutch is practically brand new and my tranny shifts nicely)?
