My $30 splitter solution
#76
#77
The weight is at the extreme nose of the car, this increases the polar moment of the vehicle. This mass must be accelerated sideways for the car to rotate like it does at turn-in... further forward it is from the center of rotation the more it must be moved when changing directions.
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Also make sure the brackets you come up with are capable of keeping 30 lbs attached to the car, don'f forget to consider the inertia of that thing when it gets smacked by something.
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Also make sure the brackets you come up with are capable of keeping 30 lbs attached to the car, don'f forget to consider the inertia of that thing when it gets smacked by something.
Regarding the polar moment, I agree. But these things also have shown to increase front downforce, so hopefully it shouldn't create too much trouble on turn-in. If anything, I hope it doesn't create too much downforce to unbalance the rear of the car. I don't expect it to based on what I've seen from other cars running a similar setup, but only testing will prove that out.
wood??? jeez since when is grabing a slap of foam core and slapin some fiberglass over it so hard?
Time will tell.
Daily driver? I wonder if I would benefit from some radical camber like that on my Dodge pickup?
#81
Nice job on that. I've seen a lot of people using something made of plastic sheet or lexan. A couple I have seen are 2 piece items (left, right) with the logic being the full splitter doesn't always get damaged on an off track excursion.
#83
That pic is a great illustration of my reluctance to use aluminum. I know it might be lighter, but the aluminum always seems to look "beat up", even if it's only from the stress of the mounting bolts. Keep the ideas coming guys, but remember, it's got to be CHEAP!
#84
That pic is a great illustration of my reluctance to use aluminum. I know it might be lighter, but the aluminum always seems to look "beat up", even if it's only from the stress of the mounting bolts. Keep the ideas coming guys, but remember, it's got to be CHEAP!
to be honest, i think aluminum is a good solution, but the foam is probably the best, as its easier to be replaced and cheaper.
#85
#86
?What's that supposed to mean? You say thickness accounted for, then say of the same thickness.
Lexan is less than half as dense as aluminum, but on a strength per unit mass basis, high grade aluminum is better. Your typical sheet aluminum is probably low grade though, so then it's basically a draw.
Lexan is less than half as dense as aluminum, but on a strength per unit mass basis, high grade aluminum is better. Your typical sheet aluminum is probably low grade though, so then it's basically a draw.
#88
i read in a recent magazine article... cant remember, but it was probably superstreet or modified, in the last few months... the staff made a front splitter for a honda or something. but they went throught the steps and explained every step to it. they made it from carbon fiber and kevlar. they detail how to use vacuum bags, release wax and no-stick paper. its very helpful. i had intended to do one this spring. the main shape was formed from half inch foam insulation sheets. they also detail functionality, where the splitter should be level with the ground because it isnt the lip the pushes down on the front of the car, but the inverted foil design sucks the car to the ground by creating an area of low pressure. if i can find it in my huge magazine stack, i will repost a reference to it. i also did some research and it looks like kevlar is pretty cheap compared to carbon fiber. its just as strong as cf and has the twill look. so thats the road im gonna take. but their piece was very professionally made. real clean. ithink it only weighed like 12 pounds or something. no quote tho
#89
http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/chassis.htm
Click on the link at the bottom, theres some articles from Racecar Engineering in there on air dams, splitters and front diffusers, also on underbody aero, wings and all sorts of good stuff.
Click on the link at the bottom, theres some articles from Racecar Engineering in there on air dams, splitters and front diffusers, also on underbody aero, wings and all sorts of good stuff.
#90
I've been very happy with my wood splitter. I've hit stuff with it and it's held up perfect, it's 100x more durable than the last fiberglass airdam/splitter I had that was purchased from a race shop (not homemade). I used 9 layer 1/2" ply (furniture quality) and covered it in 3 coats of fiberglass resin before painting. Lot's of compliments on it and no one knows it's wood. Mounts up with a couple quick release pins and is very solid. For the skeptics of using wood, my buddy just picked up a new $100k+ formula car and it came with a wood splitter.
#92
I attached some 1" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle to the splitter as seen in the pictures. I then bolted (2) pieces of the same angle on each side of the car on the outer frame area. The angle on the car attached to the angle on the splitter with quick release pins (2 on each side). The angle on the car bent slightly a few times from some impact and finally broke from being hammered straight again, so I recently replaced it (yesterday). The splitter has not sustained any damage. I took a 7" x 8" piece of the splitter wood (1/4" aluminum plate would also work but had none handy) and bolted it to the frame rail on each side, it attaches to the aluminum on the splitter now with the same 2 quick release pins on each side. To tighten things even further, I added a turn-buckle and eye bolts with some cable in the wheel well area on each side. Takes 2 minutes to remove the splitter with no tools. Very, very solid.
I can get some pictures of the mounting if you'd like, don't have any on the computer at the moment, just ask. Also, you may find that you need something to cover the gap between the bottom of the bumper and the top of the splitter, you'll notice in the picture I used some 3/16" black plastic. The support rods in front definitely help, otherwise you will get the splitter to flex at high speeds in the middle from the down force (I've seen some pictures of mine with the rods more to the side).
Good luck with yours, this has been a great splitter so far!
#99
Off to the paint shop! The final step before painting it is to cut out a section just behind where the oil cooler will sit. The cooler will be shrouded to the opening so that the air rushing under the splitter will create negative pressure behind the cooler to make it more effective.
#100
Why not extend the splitter further under the radiator to force more air through it? A few pictures up, it looks like there is a couple inch gap between the bottom of the rad and the edge of the splitter. Why not extend the splitter further under the radiator to force more air through it? Are you planning on making some sort of shroud to channel the air?