Well my stock Turbo Intake Duck broke into about 1 peices like they are known to do.

Realizing it, I dint want to track down a $60+ used one.

I went to my local muffler shop and had them bend me a 2.5" wide 12" long pipe. $9
Then I picked up 2 couplers for $8 at home depot. 1 2" to 2" coupler and 1 2" to 3" coupler.
I had a 3/8 hose barb and some RTV at home for the only line it fed off the origonal.
Im using an aftermarket BOV, so I dint bother venting it back to the intake.
Only thing I had to do is trim the pipe to length, about 3 inches total of both ends.

Heres the pics of it finished and installed.



The horibly dirty motor after 30 miles of gravel road and oregon dirt .




My idle is solid and it seems to work great.

 

benefits of that?

 

Not having to find a replacment thats intackt?
Better then stock, in means of not having an S curve the air has to flow.

Able to do on a college student budget?
Easy?
Fast?
Did I mention I live in bum luck no where and I need the car running tommorow?

 

Its not broken

 

So ur car runs now? That's great. I can't wait to see it.

 

Nope .

It idles....
And then chokes itself out.

 

Doesn't anybody here get anything welded?

 

i do

 

Hehe, or at least JB Weld it....

 

Forgot JBWELD, and I needed this done at 6pm on a friday night.
I was lucky as I was.

Plus I taped the barb into the pipe- only used rtv for a extra sealant.

Ill get a piece of 1/4 tube welded onto the next one, and flare it out.

 

did you forget to put the check valve on when you put it in the new tid?

 

ouch dude, I would at LEAST use JB weld on that...Thats what i did to my NA intake when i put the same barbed fittings on... They are on there solid as hell, good alternative to welding...well weld is obviously much better but jb is sure good stuff

 

But hey, good job with the TID, i love innovatoin, even if it makes me look uneducated: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/complete-my-new-intake-setup-forced-airpump-air-317282/

 

I don't have any vac lines having to come out of my intake anymore

All emissions removed, rats nest gone, solenoids no longer being used, and I have a total of 2 vac lines both that connect to the TB/Dynamic chamber nipples. Everything else is capped! Yay for simplicity.

 

What do the two lines from the intake go to? I know one goes to the BAC but what about the other one? And how come you removed the BAC valve?

 

Other one is for something in the rats nest, *i think*, I really don't know for sure as I ripped everything out at once and cant remember where it all went to.

The BAC valve is for when the car has extra electrical load on it to keep the idle steady. It is mainly for AC and PS, which I removed, so I had no use for it anymore. Plus it wasn't working properly anyways even after I cleaned it and such.

I think I read in the FSM that it helps with AC, PS, headlights, and the solenoids or something, not exactly sure. But since all of that is gone, except headlights, I didn't need it!

 

Awesome, very innovative. How much did it cost for the shop to bend the pipe?

 

Thx for the reply dDub

 

I am wondering what I am running now....
Following changes.

No emissions. Egr Left inplace. Bac still connected.
Stock exhaust, no cats.
Ported wastegate.
2.5" TID.
K&N cone filter.
TB mod- coolant lines re routed.

Ill get a boost guage friday.
New injectors come tommorow....

 

My TID is similar. I used a hydraulic bending machine to bend some 2.5" pipe, and created an adapter for the AFM using a 3" exhause flange and a MIG welder. If anyone is looking for a cheap TID, I can bend the pipe for you and ship it to you for pretty cheap with the barb for the PCV welded in. If you want to vent your BOV back into the intake I can put a tube on there for that. I would go with 3" piping, but 2.5" is the biggest I have bending dies for. I may start production on a TID kit soon with the AFM adapter included for around $40. You just add your favorite cone filter with a 3" outlet and you're done.

-Joe

 

Running as far as RWHP or boost? If you have a ported wastegate, probably stock boost. Without that though, you would probably creep to around 9 psi. Get a free flowing exhaust, FCD, and Walbro and build this and you'll be set for around 240 RWHP:

http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

-Joe

 

Good to know.

 

Updated with new filter and Jbweld :p.

 

Ok.

After doing some more research- I want to add to this for anyone that does a TID like mine.
Now Its a general consencus among the older memebers that the S4 AFM has to be mounted almost level for it to work correctly.
As you can see, mines not.

I followed several guides when I built this and reviewed about 400 posts about it.
Atleast 9X.XX used the method I did above.

Now I did notice I was running richer after doing this, which would make sence with what the memebers say about the AFM having to be on a level surface.

Sooo I spent some extra time today to take apart my TID and all the wiring in that area.
I ended up replocating the wiring and making mounting backets for the AFM.

The brakets are being welded tommorow- so for now cable ties are holding it down and up.

With the $17 into this total- this is the best way I was able to work out getting the AFM as level as possible.