Must beat 1990 AWD Turbo Eclipse at California Dragway this weekend. Need help?
#26
i am legendary
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
with the 14b turbo @ 15psi with most 'free' mods and exhaust, the DSM will run ~14.5. You should've saw my coworkers look when by the time he hit 2nd i had him by 4 cars in my sport, his hole shot didn't even matter.
So yah it all depends on what's done to either car.
Last edited by ddub; 03-21-05 at 10:33 PM.
#27
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so basically ram his car off the strip in order to win heeh jke. Ive had 2 dsm both slightly modded and i ran a 15 flat (denver). My friends stock rx7 ran a 15.4 up here as well. It all depends on the driver. If you have a sick reaction time then you're rotary will probably beat him if not keep with him. My buddy was a semi pro bracket racer back in the 80s so he knew how to drive. Good stuff. THE 7 WILL NEVER LOSE!!!! heeh later,
kevin.
kevin.
#28
put ice, or dry ice if you can get some on your ic, unhook ur p/s, a/c, and air pump belts if you have them, rear tires at 20 psi, fronts at 35-40. practice launching your car with boost, right before the light gets green, u need to have WOT and be around 3-5k. if you just have ur foot on the gas at half throttle or part throttle, you wont have boost. try getting some 100 octane gas, get new plugs/wires, clean out your air filter. also PRACTICE
#29
The mystery of the prize.
get a gtech and go practice on back roads, but keep in mind you will hook alot better @ the track than on the street, so it will be easier to bog than on the street.
#30
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
try getting some 100 octane gas
#31
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
100 octane gas will do nothing but slow you down. if you are running stock boost, use 87 octane. you will have MORE power.
#32
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Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
100 octane gas will do nothing but slow you down. if you are running stock boost, use 87 octane. you will have MORE power.
NEVER RUN LOWER THAN 91!!!!! EVER! the higher octane keeps the car from detonating.....anything lower than 91 at BOOST will blow your motor.......if you had an NA motor in your vert then 87 would be OK......I think that was PureSephorith's mistake; he may have thought you had a STOCK vert.
Last edited by Madrx7racer; 03-22-05 at 10:18 AM.
#33
i am legendary
Actually, in completely stock form, stock exhaust, stock intake, stock boost, everything... the s4 turbos (don't know about s5's) were built to run off of regular just fine IIRC.
Of course, his isn't stock so yes premium would be the best idea.
Of course, his isn't stock so yes premium would be the best idea.
#34
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LOOSE WEIGHT - It's free power.
Strip every thing you can.
No more than 1/3 full of gas. (gas is heavy)
I personally leave 1st early & let 2nd do the real grunt. Maybe try it once & see how it works for you.
If you can get away with it, rub a snow cone (unflavored) on the IC..
Strip every thing you can.
No more than 1/3 full of gas. (gas is heavy)
I personally leave 1st early & let 2nd do the real grunt. Maybe try it once & see how it works for you.
If you can get away with it, rub a snow cone (unflavored) on the IC..
Last edited by SureShot; 03-22-05 at 03:12 PM.
#35
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Originally Posted by Madrx7racer
push in the clutch while trying to put it into gear...it should slip in like a ***** in an eager vagina about 1/4 of the way down.
lol
HHTurboVert got any pics of your car with the body kit on it
#37
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
nooo u stole my idea. neways, i see ppl do it all the time at the track, so why wouldnt he get away with it?
#38
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I have an idea that would do similar things as ice on the intake, only it would be more professional than a bag of ice strapped to the ****. It goes like this: you have a tank filled with refridgerant (R-134), an electric compressor, a valve with an outlet and an inlet, copper tubing that runs through the car and coils around the intake tube. Over this will be an insulative blanket. Now, compressed refridgerant, as you may know, gets COLD. This would lower the intake temps phenominally I believe.
#40
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Originally Posted by 1RevvinFC3S
Now, compressed refridgerant, as you may know, gets COLD. This would lower the intake temps phenominally I believe.
#41
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Sorry for not responding sooner, it's finals week and I'm pretty bogged down. To address a few of the questions/concerns you guys raised:
My pals AWD is modded, by me. HKS Electronic boost controller(EVC), front mount intercooler, 3" turbo back, intake filter, no A/C, no front bumper support, stripped rear cabin( car weighs just about 2900lbs), and running 14psi of boost (can't run more or he'll detonate). I installed an AFC-2 in his car as well, but its not tuned yet so it's not going to help him any =)
He has dragged his AWD before, it ran a best of 14.7 at LACR(2700' elevation) at 16psi before installing the FMIC.
FYI, he does know how to launch his traction monster.
As for my car, It's definitley lighter than his, I have removed alot of weight from my convertible. Last weigh in was at 2760lbs. Way too much stuff removed to list.
I am currently boosting about 10psi (spikes 12psi in 3rd w/MBC fully open) on 91 octane and have NEVER detonated. This is most likey due to my rewired walbro, it keeps my car plenty rich at 12psi according to my A/F ratio gauge(peice of **** I know..) I plan on using 100+ octane on the track and upping the boost, possibly to 14 psi(Yikes!). What do you guys think about that?
I know my car can hang with his because we ran off a rolling start and I pulled a car length on him in less that a few secs. I just need to stay close behind him when he launches on me.
Lowering my tire pressure is a great suggestion. This is the type of tip I was looking for. I will definately lower my tire pressure before the race, but how much(25psi?). I'm also not sure what wheels and tires I should use though(can't afford slicks). Should I use my stock convertible rims with 205's or my MUCH heavier and larger 17's with 225's. There is about a 6lb per rim difference between the stock vert rims (11lbs), and my cheap *** 17's (17 lbs). I think that these heavy rims cancel out alot of the benitfit of my light-weight flywheel(17lbs). What do you guys think?
Shifting high in 1st(7500) and lower in second and third sounds like the best idea from all the suggestions so far, any other people agree with me on this.
My car will definately bog if I drop the clutch at 4K. With a lightened flywheel, you don't store as much rotational inertia in the spinning flywheel. So if your car launches best at 4K, mine would definately have to launch a little higher.
Ohh yeah, I you look at my sig, you'll notice that I have a wet nitrous system. I blew my n/a engine using this system and have been hesitant to use it on my turbo engine, but I have gotten on it briefly. Unfortunately my boost skyrockets so it doesn't look like I'll be able to use it till I port my waste gate =(.
- I just found out that your battery must be located in it's OEM position to race in the street legal catagory this Sat in fontana. =( Maybe I'll put another battery in the engine bay to get them off my back?
My pals AWD is modded, by me. HKS Electronic boost controller(EVC), front mount intercooler, 3" turbo back, intake filter, no A/C, no front bumper support, stripped rear cabin( car weighs just about 2900lbs), and running 14psi of boost (can't run more or he'll detonate). I installed an AFC-2 in his car as well, but its not tuned yet so it's not going to help him any =)
He has dragged his AWD before, it ran a best of 14.7 at LACR(2700' elevation) at 16psi before installing the FMIC.
FYI, he does know how to launch his traction monster.
As for my car, It's definitley lighter than his, I have removed alot of weight from my convertible. Last weigh in was at 2760lbs. Way too much stuff removed to list.
I am currently boosting about 10psi (spikes 12psi in 3rd w/MBC fully open) on 91 octane and have NEVER detonated. This is most likey due to my rewired walbro, it keeps my car plenty rich at 12psi according to my A/F ratio gauge(peice of **** I know..) I plan on using 100+ octane on the track and upping the boost, possibly to 14 psi(Yikes!). What do you guys think about that?
I know my car can hang with his because we ran off a rolling start and I pulled a car length on him in less that a few secs. I just need to stay close behind him when he launches on me.
Lowering my tire pressure is a great suggestion. This is the type of tip I was looking for. I will definately lower my tire pressure before the race, but how much(25psi?). I'm also not sure what wheels and tires I should use though(can't afford slicks). Should I use my stock convertible rims with 205's or my MUCH heavier and larger 17's with 225's. There is about a 6lb per rim difference between the stock vert rims (11lbs), and my cheap *** 17's (17 lbs). I think that these heavy rims cancel out alot of the benitfit of my light-weight flywheel(17lbs). What do you guys think?
Shifting high in 1st(7500) and lower in second and third sounds like the best idea from all the suggestions so far, any other people agree with me on this.
My car will definately bog if I drop the clutch at 4K. With a lightened flywheel, you don't store as much rotational inertia in the spinning flywheel. So if your car launches best at 4K, mine would definately have to launch a little higher.
Ohh yeah, I you look at my sig, you'll notice that I have a wet nitrous system. I blew my n/a engine using this system and have been hesitant to use it on my turbo engine, but I have gotten on it briefly. Unfortunately my boost skyrockets so it doesn't look like I'll be able to use it till I port my waste gate =(.
- I just found out that your battery must be located in it's OEM position to race in the street legal catagory this Sat in fontana. =( Maybe I'll put another battery in the engine bay to get them off my back?
Last edited by HHTurboVert; 03-22-05 at 08:06 PM.
#43
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This is the 1/4 mile track in fontana at the california speed way. You can get directions at www.californiaspeedway.com $10 to watch and $20 to race. See ya there.
#44
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if you'd all read my damn post I said "if you are running STOCK boost". its funny how many people can quote it and criticize it without actually reading it. 87 for a stock TII engine is exactly what you should run. Don't tell me this it will blow your engine BS, this has been covered before and I personally run nothing other than 87 in my TII. If he is not running stock boost then he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation. Telling him to run 100 octane gas is just going to slow him down.
edit: I just read that you are running 91 without pinging. Excellent, if you run the same boost at the track then continue to use 91. If you do decide to run higher boost then 100 octane is a good choice. Do not simply put 100 octane in and change nothing else. That is useless and you will have less power.
edit: I just read that you are running 91 without pinging. Excellent, if you run the same boost at the track then continue to use 91. If you do decide to run higher boost then 100 octane is a good choice. Do not simply put 100 octane in and change nothing else. That is useless and you will have less power.
Last edited by PureSephiroth; 03-23-05 at 03:39 PM.
#45
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
if you'd all read my damn post I said "if you are running STOCK boost".
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
87 for a stock TII engine is exactly what you should run.
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
Don't tell me this it will blow your engine BS
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
this has been covered before and I personally run nothing other than 87 in my TII.
Originally Posted by PureSephiroth
If he is not running stock boost then he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation. Telling him to run 100 octane gas is just going to slow him down.
#46
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I'm still leary. The DSM can drop the hammer and fly. The AWD system lets them get away with seriously ridiculous crap. My roommate's car was running 10.50's all day long on Uniroyals. (!!!)
#48
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"If he is not running stock boost then he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation. Telling him to run 100 octane gas is just going to slow him down."
Uhhh, actually you're wrong there buddy. Octane ratings go like this: the higher, the less likely to detonate prematurely. I don't know where you're pulling your info from, but I'm gonna have to disagree strongly. In a turbo motor, you want fuel that is LESS likely to detonate prematurely.
Uhhh, actually you're wrong there buddy. Octane ratings go like this: the higher, the less likely to detonate prematurely. I don't know where you're pulling your info from, but I'm gonna have to disagree strongly. In a turbo motor, you want fuel that is LESS likely to detonate prematurely.
#49
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are people seriously this dumb about octane. "he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation." Meaning he is not experiencing detonation. I know how "octane ratings go". You want fuel that won't detonate prematurely but that doesn't mean you should just throw in the highest you can find for no damn reason.
lowest without detonation. What i've been saying this whole time. It is indisputably correct.
lowest without detonation. What i've been saying this whole time. It is indisputably correct.
#50
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Yes, it is. However, since most people who drag tend to 'tweak' a bit, and are always just pushing the envelope a little further, higher is nice for when you go doing that.