EazyE

hey guys, i just got finished ordering my new exhaust (Racing Beat full turbo exhaust) and got to thinking... my Tii is all but stock except for the BOV i put a while back, so this is my first upgrade in hp... what i was wondering, with the new 3.15" of the turbo im aboviously finally going to see the potential of the turbo, right? but with this increase in psi am i going to lean out my engine???

i know that i need to buy a S-AFC, new injectors and fuel pump.. but im a lil short on cash(******* RB) .. anyway... is it safe for me to drive my car with the new exhaust and no fuel control until i get my next paycheck???

VG Ridah

SInce your car is natuarally turbo you should have nothing to worry about. The ecu will do all of the work until you get a S-AFC. If you're that worried get all of the parts then spend an entire day installing them. Are you gonna get a wideband o2 sensor? That'll help you really get some serious tuning done until you upgrade the turbo.

EazyE

could you please explain about this widband o2 sensor?? thanx

mickmania

you should be good with the RB exhust. You need to have a intake. get a K&N filter and bolt that on with the Rb exhust, you should be good to go.

VG Ridah

Your stock o2 sensor just tells the ecu if you're running rich or lean that's it. Some sensors barely do that as they are narrowband sending only one signal to the ecu. With a wideband you can actually see the a/f ratio digitally. Some wideband kits come with a sensor and the display guage. Others can come with a air fuel controller built in but they run a pretty penny also. I can't think of the name of one of the kits but it costs a little less than 800 and it monitors several thinhs other than the a/f mixture.

therotaryrocket

you will be hitting fuel cut, but it shouldn't hurt anything. the fuel cut will prevent damage

DylanShupe

I know having my exhaust and intake on my TII caused my engine to go downhill quick. If I could do it over, I would've waited to put the exhaust on until after I got the injectors and fuel pump and SAFC-II. Just my .02 though.

iceblue

Wow.........

RB makes one of the best axhousts available for a street rx-7. The reson a TII exhoust produces 50HP is it enables the boost to rise. The stuck ECU will cause fule cut. You will need a FCD with this setup. Ither a RB or one used from ebay will be just fine. Your stock fule system is just fine for this. However I will highly sugest a fule pump upgrade. You again can get a walboro 255 from ebay non the less for 85$ or a FD fule pmp from a auto parts store for 100$.

Your injects will have no problem with this upgrade. You have no need for a wide band o2 yet. Or a controller. If you are getting serius and going to be doing alot of moding Then yes. Ither go stand alone or get a fule manager and a wide band o2. At this point dont bother. A AEM wide band will run 400$

A TID would be a great mod at this point.

Realy if there was a issue with this setup it would be posted on RB web site and as they did you need a FCD.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

You should get an FCD, port your WG, and get your 550cc's cleaned.

The stock fuel system is good for around 240whp.

RETed

WOW, LOTS OF *BAD* INFO WHICH CAN LEAD TO KILLING YOUR ENGINE!

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm


-Ted

iceblue

Thow few things I would do in differ order :-/

Node

iTrader: (1)

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

the first 5 replys are a reason why people tell you to take the internet stuff WITH A GRAIN OF SALT


everyone says, get s-afc, get intake..................................4 or 5 posts later until anyone even mentions FCD. fuel cut is to save motor? yeah from a rare occurence when its stock and boosts that high......repeatedly hitting fuel cut is DEADLY for your motor and WILL BLOW IT UP


my suggestions
1) Buy a used HKS F-Con w/ FCD for about $250-300 plug and play. better than s-afc and includes a FCD

2) Buy a walbro fuel pump 255lph, not sure which specific model. personally i run a fd pump

after those mods you can run more bolt on stuff, but with full RB exhaust and no FCD or anything else your motor wont last long.


look at RETeds site, good info! and always try to find truth in these replies, by that i mean research the answer and make sure quite a few people say the same thing.


oh ****, one last thing. buy a boost gauge autometer sucks! woohoo

defi rules!

Archangels

check my signature for my mods, i dont have fuel mods other then the HKS PFC Fcon and i run rich as hell.... you will need a FCD but other then that i dont see you leaning out, and a FCD is what, $80 tops?...

Archangels

ahh your in lethbridge, i'm just a hop-skip-and-jump away from you, PM me if you want, i can help you with your car no prob!...

EazyE

right on archangels!! ... good to hear!! ... so now the question is which is the best FCD out there?? ... how much harder will a fd fuel pump, pump? what the diff in lph? should my mods after my exhaust be FCD, S-AFC, Boost Controler, FD pump, bigger injectors??
and can anyone explain to me better about the HKS F-con./w FCD?

EazyE

with my new exhaust on in a lil more then a week... it will only be a week of easy driving(nothing over 4000rpm) until i can purchase any of these things... which should be first?

Archangels

i have a HKS PFC Fcon, basically it's a piggy back fuel computer, all FCD's basically do the same, if you splurge for a Fcon it comes built in....

for fuel pumps go with either the FD fuel pump ( cant find many for cheap here in alberta ) or a walbro 255lph, basically if you get the walbro, no matter how much power your car makes you will never need to upgrade again....

if you have MSN add me: Matrix9eleven@hotmail.com

take a look at my mods and if you want, follow a simular pattern, if you dont get a Fcon right away you should atleast upgrade your fuel pump and get a FCD for sure....

is your car an S4 or S5?... i put a cone filter on my car which gave noticible power for a measly $35....

:P

iceblue

Go to RETed's site as he posted. All of your queshtions so far would be awnserd

Node

iTrader: (1)

why FCON is better than S-AFC

The S-AFC just modifies the AFM (air flow meter) signal, and this tricks your computer into thinking its getting more/less air, which ***** your timing up and a couple other things. It will definately work but isn't the best way of doing it
But the nice thing about the S-AFC is you need one if you want to change your injector sizes around much more than like 720 secondaries, and it would be good to have one then.
they have a high and low setting, but some people rig the low to be offboost, and the high to be onboost. kinda cool
s-afc is RPM only so you change the fuel for the certain rpm and thats it, it doesnt know wether you're boosting or what psi you're at


The F-Con has a harness that goes between your stock ecu and stock harness. it modifies the actual injector pulse and in this way does not affect your AFM reading at all.
it also has a faster processor than your stock ECU and people say it runs smoother because of this and just runs better overall
the f-con has a boost sensor that tells the fcon what your pressure is and it can use that
it adjusts by a single screw with 0-9 on it, 0 being stock and 9 being rich as hell.

you can buy a thing called a GCC (graphic computer something) from HKS and that lets you adjust the RPMs at like 5 points or something, so you can richen it up. This is mainly for the AIC controller, but can work on the F-Con if you run larger injectors and need to lean out your map

the f-con won't handle different sized injectors like you can with a s-afc, you need the GCC to do that.

But overall, I say fcon


also have you ever seen the RTek ECU?
it actually deletes the fuel cut code instead of just tricking it and halfassing it, also allows you to run up to 14psi (max the stock pressure sensor can read) and gives you added timing all the way up there when the stock ecu stops pulling timing at 9psi i believe.
the 1.5 runs stock 550cc injectors and they have a 1.7 version that runs 720cc secondaries as if they were stock.
the only diff other than the injectors is the 1.7 has a fuel cut when you hold the throttle WOT when cranking to unflood your car, the 1.5 does not have this feature.
theyre coming out with a 2.0 also
the RTek is specifcally for series 4 (87-88) turbo ii rx-7s right now and is a chip, so you have to either send in your ECU or install the socket chip yourself if you dare.
RTek runs about $115 installed by them
heres rteks site http://www.pocketlogger.com/

Node

iTrader: (1)

oh derr, knew i forgot something

this is just from memory but
t2 pump flows 190lph
fd flows 210lph

not positive if those are correct but im pretty sure, i know for a fact that FD fuel pump flows 20% more than t2
i got mine for free with 23k miles on it from a friend who had a modified FD
you can get them on the forum for about $20-$25
they dont handle increased fuel pressure nearly as good as the walbro, so if you want to run a rising rate fuel press regulator get something like the walbro

ive seen people pick up the walbro for as little at like $65
and be warned that the walbros are kinda noisy, they whine

Donn Hecht

Like someone previously stated there is a lot of bad info being said.
Like someone said earlier I would do the following in order :
1) Intake, 2) 3" TID, 3) FCD, 4) Boost, EGT Gauge 5) GSL-SE or 720's injectors in the secondaries. 6) Also make sure the stock 550' primaries, and the secondary injectors are cleaned profesionaly. 7) Port the wastegate to control boost Creep. 9) Get a FD or a Walboro Fuel pump, at the same time take the time out to re-wire the fuel pump to make sure you are getting the correct voltage to prevent a "Lean Condition". 8) Blowoff Valve 9) Always Run 93 Octane always. 10) Dont boost more than 10-11 PSI on the stock Turbo. A lot of people will tell you in this forum "Man on my stock Turbo im boostin 14 PSI all day long with no problems, and I have never blown a motor." Yes this is very true until one day you either blow the motor because, the small stock IC is severly "Heat Soaked", and the intake Temps are runnin crazy high, or if your one of the few lucky ones you blow the Oil seal in the stock Turbo, due to the fact that the stock Turbo was never intended to see more than stock boost which was 7-8 PSI on a stock car. Keep in mind the stock IC was only designed for stock boost levels, not consistent 14 PSI + boost levels. As far as the HKS FCON, Megasquirt, S-AFC is concerned its ok it gets the job done, however I rather go Haltech, or Microtech, or any kind of Tech, as long as you have a experienced tuner for you aftermarket EMS of choice. I personally think Haltech, or Microtech is the way to go. "F- - - all the Piggy Back BS". Do it right the first time around the Haltech or the Microtech are far superior in design, and tuning capabilities than the HKS FCON, and the other computers in the market. As far as the Fuel Pump is concerned if you are really going to get into Big time HP numbers, I would go with the Aeromotive, or Bosch Fuel Pump, as well as the Cosmo Pump. These Fuel Pumps make the FD, and the Walboro look "Mickey Mouse". Then again if you go with these bigger pumps, you will need a Fuel Pressure Regulator w/gauge, a Bigger Fuel Rail, Bigger injectors, FMIC,Bigger Turbo, and other goodies, and more CA$H. Check under my forum name on other threads that I have posted in regards to this issue, there are other people as well that have posted in regards to this topic. Good Luck

capn

personally i would go with a walbro 255lph and then some 720 secondaries and then an rtek 1.7 and you should be ready to go

iceblue

This thread

Node

iTrader: (1)

yeah, fd fuel pump is nothing major, just a baby upgrade. it runs out around 300rwhp on FDs and they have 550/850s

but i got mine w/ 23k original miles on it and for free. so who could complain?